Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating AHA gel problem

  • AHA gel problem

    Posted by fotis83 on March 7, 2023 at 6:05 pm

    I have a problem with AHA. I want to make a gel for the face with Carbopol ® Ultrez 30 but when I add the AHA it loses its viscosity, it becomes like water with ph 3-4. What’s wrong? Should I change another modified rheology? I also have Aristoflex Velvet, and Natrosol™ 250HX. What to do;

    chemicalmatt replied 11 months, 3 weeks ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • fareloz

    March 8, 2023 at 3:54 am

    Nothing wrong, these gel-formers do not tolerate low pH and electrolytes. It’s better to read recommended usage from manufacturer before trying.

    I would suggest to use gums instead. For example Xanthan Gum, very reliable thickener. Or Hyaluronic acid (high molecular).

  • chemicalmatt

    March 8, 2023 at 11:20 am

    @fareloz is right to suggest using saccharide gums, although even some of these can diminish in viscosity with time at low pH. Historically we used nonionic alkyl ethoxylates (e.g. Ceteareth-12, Steareth-2) to make emulsions at extreme ends of the pH scale. If you don’t mind that dreaded “-eth” in your LOI, that is.

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