Behentrimonium Methosulfate in hair conditoners
Lately I’ve been using a lot of BTMS (Incroquat Behenyl TMS 25%, which is a blend of Behentirmonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol) in hair conditioners/masks, as my manager likes this ingredient and asks for me to use it. But there’s something I noticed: sometimes the result it’s not really pretty… It seems that BTMS it’s not fully incorporated and the product doesn’t seem homogeneous (there’s some clumps in the emulsion).
The standard process is: We add the water and oil phase (BTMS belonging to the oil phase) at the same beaker, heat it until ~80ºC an then homogenize under 800 RPM for 5-10 minutes. Then we add other phases (silicones, actives, fragrance, preservative system) and follow with the homogenization.
I tend to use it at a 2-4% rate and sometimes combine it with Cetrimonium Chloride and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. I also combine it with some fatty alcohol (cetyl or cetearyl alcohol) at 5-6% rate and silicones (mainly dimethicone and amodimethicone).
Does anyone here have worked with BTMS before (or works with it) and noticed the same thing? Is there some incompatibility or particularity when working with this ingredient?