Cosmetic Science Talk

Cosmetic Science discussion forum. For people who want for formulate cosmetics and get advice from other formulators around the world.
*** Click on one of the three Forum categories below to start a new discussion ***

Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Shea Butter

  • Shea Butter

    Posted by VanBurenBay on February 8, 2023 at 8:18 am

    I am working with a customer’s formula that uses a high percentage of shea butter. What can be added to stop the crystallization in cooling and maybe help build viscosity. (leaping bunny certified)

    Squinny replied 1 month ago 5 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    February 10, 2023 at 10:40 am

    Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids prevent recrystalization of shea, cocoa and all other butters. Try Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate or Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate. The food techs have been using these for decades for same reason. Bonus: as surfactants, they assist in wash-off later whether on your hair or on your clothes. Also these are edible. Safe as can be whether the bunny thing applies or not.

    • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by  chemicalmatt.
  • Graillotion

    February 10, 2023 at 3:18 pm
    • MariaSibon

      February 17, 2023 at 7:48 am

      Hello, do you think another low HLB emulsifier like SPAn 80 could be used to avoid crystalisation of high stearic acid butters? I have some problems in my formulation for a foot balm. The product it is ok at 5C, ok at 40C but at 20 C, small crystals are created uniformly inn the balm, that gives that grainy feel when spreading. i am preparing a post about this with all info, I just saw your comment here and found it very helpful

  • Squinny

    February 17, 2023 at 6:59 pm

    Maybe this article may help : So you want to avoid graininess in your butters and balms? - Swettis Beauty Blog ( Also maybe if you list the ingredients and % of Shea butter others may be able to offer suggestions. May be to do with rate and conditions of cooling time and temp? I tend to like emulsified body butter products personally as haven’t made an anhydrous one yet that isn’t greasy (maybe that’s just me as my friend’s seem to love them!). All the emulsified ones I have had an issue with and even the cold processed whipped ones I have had no issues (luck?) Cheers