chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
-
What @Microformulation Mark said, plus 5% is OK for Canada, over the limit for USA. As for a clear gel, lidocaine HCl is soluble in water not oil, regardless of what you read. No carbomer gel will be clear with jojoba oil or any other oil incorporated within. Try dissolving the lidocaine HCl into water after hydrating carbomer but before neutralizing it and see how that works.
-
@Ying Celeste should have gone ahead and slowly added the water - and more of it - to obtain the translucent solid stick formation. That stearate-diol system requires water to solvate (“activate”) and will not work without it.
-
Nope, never heard of using any cuprous salt in that application. Cuprous sulfate will burn & clean out the roots growing in your sewer pipe though. Seriously, no, don’t do that. If the purpose of the metal salt is sebum and sweat absorption just add rice starch, corn starch or tapioca starch.
-
DEL the phenoxyethanol and the octodecanol. ADD a pigment wetter that is compatible with all that silicone, such as a dimethicone copolymer or an ester. Increasing your dimethicone wax should thicken it fine without needing silica. Bear in mind petrolatum (love the stuff) and its cousin microcrystalline wax are not miscible with dimethicones of any type except for alkyl-modified ones. Might want to rethink those also. Good luck.
-
The lactic acid/sodium lactate buffer system is best, least irritating on the skin and lends other benefits the citrates and other acid-base combos do not have. It is also not expensive and easy to add. You do not need much (<1.0% total buffer solid state) depending on what activity you have in your formula. Bufferring to pH5.5 is easy, lactic acid has a lower pKa.
-
“Pet degreaser?” I cannot comprehend this application. Can you elaborate?
-
You may need to level that off at 2.00% fragrance. There are regulatory considerations here in the USA; not sure what nation you are distributing. Besides, for most fragrance oils in a body mist that will be plenty. You may not need more than 5.00% propylene glycol either, although butylene glycol is the better fixative.
-
I’ve been doing this cosmetic science gig for >40 years. Can someone explain to me what the heck is implied, explained or described - preferably in physical chemistry lexicon - by “micellar water”? I’ve long considered this a marketing scam.
-
I’m relying on HRIPT 50-panel being acceptable for the foreseeable future. The genomic safety regimes show a lot of viability, not to mention lower cost, but I cannot predict what FDA will rule as valid. ON another note, looks like I may have a good post-retirement career as a beauty brand RP if I choose to do so. You and Mark are too young to think post-retirement for now.
-
Not the only one…many encounter the same phenomenon. Luckily, the solution is simple: use an associative thickener such as HASE polymers (hydrophobic alkali swellable acrylic emulsifiers). Rapidgel EZ1, Aculyns, Acrysols, even some Sepigels work like this and drop them in at start or end depending on how much mixing you foresee. If you need to use a lot of shear then add at end ’cause these will entrain air.
-
Aside from my pal @Graillotion informing to follow your bliss (mine always stops at the next martini), and without knowing your undergraduate degree (not chemistry I presume?) you are well advised to pursue formal knowledge of cosmetic science both for your skill set and career prospects. A degreed chemist with 3 years documented formulating experience under their wings will gain in the range of $60,000 - $80,000 annually now depending on the location in the USA, less than that in UK or most EU nations. MUCH less in Asia except for Singapore. In SoCal now there is such a shortage of qualified chemists you might have a bidding war should your resume’ shine enough. Progressing to senior management status will get you well into 6 figures with the large cap firms today, but you will have to smell that big corporate political stench all day.
-
Epsom salt is divalent magnesium, not a friend to cationic guar HPTC. That is likely culprit for flocculant. Or your order of addition is all meshuggenah. It should be: water > Guar HPTC > CAPB > APG > anionic > amber stuff, fragrance, preservative. DEL the glycerin and oil as they are going nowhere but into your sewer system not your hair.
-
Disperse into water heated to >50C and mix until dissolved, then go from there. Pre-mixing polymers is a practice I often try to discourage in cosmetic chemists. A story for another day.
-
First I’ve heard of the lawsuit but the term “collagen” has been used loosely for a long time in the beauty industry and I can see where the plaintiff is coming from. Nearly all of the collagen used in topical skin care products is actually collagen amino acids, not native collagen itself. The native collagen is VERY expensive and is the stuff cosmetic surgeons inject into lips to plump them up to hideous levels. There is now a group in Taiwan that sells bio-engineered collagen that is not hydrolyzed or deconstructed. I have never used it but I know it also is not cheap. Collagen amino acids are much less costly and readily available. I speculate this defendant will need to provide evidence they used native not hydrolyzed.
-
PVP K-90 is the larger polymer chain length version of PVP K-30, the only difference between the two. In hair styling K-90 will give a harder hold per gram weight but is less soluble in water and less flexible when plasticized. Think crunchier. The K-30 is easier to work with, plasticizes better, flakes less and hair hold properties may be improved by simply adding more to the formula (it is less expensive than K-90.) I cannot speak to how each PVP interacts with color cosmetics, as that medium is not my jam. As film formers go, both are hygroscopic to similar degree.
-
Will not make any difference in the sensorial outcome or formula consistency, but may affect final coloration depending on how much used of each.
-
Have you guys ever heard of Alconox, the powdered alkaline cleaner everyone uses to clean our stainless steel vessel and mixer equipment? Alconox Powdered Precision Cleaner | Alconox Inc.
Jus’ sayin’.
-
@Paprik that one is a laugh too. BTMS-25? Must be 25 times stronger than just plain BTMS, right?
Here in the USA, upcoming MoCRA regs should - I’m not saying will - put an end to this chicanery as soon as all these indie brands are required to register their labels with FDA like our OTC drug products have for six decades.
-
I will add here that polyglycerin-10 is mainly a precursor to synthesize the very useful polyglyceryl-10 ester emulsifiers. Marketing it as a lone ingredient may have been an afterthought on part of a manufacturer with dubious qualities assigned. I’ve yet to see it on any CPG label.
-
DO you mean the tocopherol diphosphate ester used in pharma? Of course it is expensive! Just because its pharma, right? Wouldn’t a combination of ethylhexylglycerin and zinc ricinoleate plus a little PCMX handle it just as well for a lot less coin? Just sayin’
-
Never had much success salt thickening with SCMI and especially when the glucosides are in there too. Best to adjust the solids ratio as close as 1:1:1 as possible, with the glucoside being shorter if anything. Easiest means is to use acrylates copolymer synergist like Synthalen W600. Then you can have more freedom with the surfactants.
-
That hectorite quat from Elementis is indicated wherever solid-state powders are to be suspended during hot-fill operations and beyond if final viscosity is low. It contributes the bulk yield value (BYV) needed for suspension of these ingredients. This is why you see it used in antiperspirants, mineral sunscreens, color make-up cosmetics…anything oil-based or silicone based in need of suspending pigments or other solids. These quat clays can also stabilize w/o and w/Si invert emulsions to a great extent.
-
Your formula appears to be OK, though a chelant/anti-redeposition agent such as tetrasodium EDTA would make it 100% better for customers. I’d look into the dispensing closure itself. If using a turret-seal cap having aperture diameter of < 3mm, this might plug up with any formulation.
-
Ditto for me @Abdullah, if the solids ratio is closer to 1:1 SLS:CAPB you likely won’t even need the salt. A little alkanolamide builder wouldn’t hurt either.
-
@sunnyday Are you seeking a distributor for dimethicones in the UK, or advice on dimethicone formulation here? There are many distributors of all chemical ingredients in the UK. Start with Brenntag and work your way downward. As for 1000cst in massage oil formulation, this is a good choice given the longer playtime than the 350. You may reduce that viscosity to get more cushioning effect by adding light esters blended with D5 cyclomethicone, in turn miscible with 1000, or by themselves if selecting the right ones.