Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup LIP GLOSS pigment problem

  • LIP GLOSS pigment problem

    Posted by cecilia on July 27, 2023 at 8:57 am

    Good day,

    I am currently working on a lip gloss formulation, I have tried adjusting the formulation, added different waxes and a fumed silica in different prototypes but I still have the same problem. As you can see on the side of the bowl, a separation / splitting or flocculation problem occurs. I am not too sure what is causing the problem. I have changed waxes to try see if different waxes bind everything better. But it is a lipgloss and needs a certain viscosity which it currently is. I have added fumed silica but still nothing has helped. I have triple roll milled it and the problem still arises.

    It contains:

    10 000cSt dimethicone - 68%

    Phenyl Trimethicone - 14%

    Caprylyl methicone - 4%

    Octyldodecanol - 4%

    Pet jelly - 4% this was at first not in, but felt it was drying to the lips but thats better with this in, and the appearance was apparent before this was added

    Phenoxyethanol -0,7%

    fumed silica - 1%

    pigments - Oxides & lakes

    microcrystalline wax - 0,7% but also tried candellila wax

    Please advice as to what I should change / add to correct this problem.

    chemicalmatt replied 9 months, 1 week ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    July 28, 2023 at 2:59 pm

    DEL the phenoxyethanol and the octodecanol. ADD a pigment wetter that is compatible with all that silicone, such as a dimethicone copolymer or an ester. Increasing your dimethicone wax should thicken it fine without needing silica. Bear in mind petrolatum (love the stuff) and its cousin microcrystalline wax are not miscible with dimethicones of any type except for alkyl-modified ones. Might want to rethink those also. Good luck.

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