Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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@ChemWizard, you are exactly correct. Saponified Oleic Acid is a very thick gel, though, so you have to figure out how to incorporate it into Decyl Glucoside without foaming - it’s doable, but not easy, especially at a production scale. -
Actually, the closest thing to a common, one-stop resource is Wikipedia.
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To my knowledge, there isn’t one - you have to contact manufacturers individually. Innovadex (now Prospector) can help, as can the PCPC buyers guide.
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NMF:
So, glycerin, Na Lactate, Na PCA, & propylene glycol are not part of the NMF at all.Only Urea would count as part of the Natural Moisturizing factors - there are quite a few. -
Someone to help you make it in what way?
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There is way too much crap in that list for free help, as @MakingSkincare has said. Please explain why you can’t just make one of her formulations?
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Using enough oleic acid soap will thicken sulfate-free surfactants. Polymer is not needed, but may be used as an adjunct since too much soap and you will get viscosity build/gelling over time. The soap also has very little suspending power.
It is critical to use a reasonably pure grade of oleic acid, or you will lose clarity. Even high-oleic sunflower oil, at 90% oleic, has enough non-oleic constituents to cloud up/opacify your product. -
Much cheaper to make it in-situ. Sodium and/or Potassium Hydroxide + Oleic Acid.
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You need to talk to @makingskincare and/or @Duncan
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And of course, you must never, ever even imply that your product protects against the sun’s radiation in any way on the package or in any literature or advertising.
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Grey area. Just listing those materials on your label could be enough to trigger the drug regulations. You need to look up the exact regulations for using sunscreens to only protect your product, but if I recall correctly, in order to avoid SPF testing, etc., your packaging needs a statement like: “Benzophenone 3 and Octyl methoxy cinnamate are present only to preserve the integrity of this product. There are not enough of these materials in this product to provide any sun protection.”
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1) Potassium Oleate or Sodium Oleate
2)CAPB and salt -
Try two batches, one where you knock out the silicone and one where you knockout the glycerin.
Also, look into these silicone + glycerin concepts: -
Look into these silicone + glycerin concepts:
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@cosmo_girl, you have to work with us here. We don’t get paid to do this - we are volunteering because we like helping and encouraging other chemists. It seems like getting enough info from you for us to help you is like pulling teeth.
So…specifically, what kind of oils? Silicone, organo-silicone, vegetable oils/triglycerides, esters?Also, specifically what kind of emulsion? W/O, O/W, W/O/W, micro-emulsion? Do you need cold-process? -
Phenyl trimethicone is soluble in Mineral Oil, but neither is soluble in glycerin:
How much energy/shear are you putting into this system when you make it? -
@nasrins, I bet you’d find it helpful to make up 1% solutions of the various thickeners and compare them.
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First thing - are you sure that you are dispersing the Aerosil enough? I know that it doesn’t look like it, but it is very agglomerated in it’s dry powder form. It gets more efficient the better dispersed it is.
There are grades of waxes that gel oil. Some are natural, some not.
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@Perry?
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To emulsify what, exactly?
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We get BSE certificates for every ingredient from every supplier.
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I don’t think that there’s a decent substitute for actually evaluating them on the lips.
That said, the closest you could come to easily accessible artificial lips would be silicone rubber - try using ScarAway or something similar as a substrate: http://myscaraway.com/products/index.html#Long-with-Flexisil -
Coverage/opacity in a concealer formula can be maximized by first making sure that all of your pigment/powder particles are fully wetted and de-agglomerated.
A staff mixer definitely will not do this job. High-shear rates are absolutely needed. On a very small scale, you can do this with a glass hand muller and a frosted piece of plate glass. On a slightly larger but still small scale, you might be able to do this in a kitchen blender with a very small container, but it’s iffy: http://www.amazon.com/Oster-4937-Mini-Jar-Accessory/dp/B000BDBG2M The next step up is a mini ball mill - one can be assembled from a high-quality rotary rock tumbler (Lortone) and then buying the media separately.Once you’ve gotten the powders properly dispersed (the ZnO will need more time than the Boron Nitride, which also needs care taken not to break the platelets) and you still aren’t getting enough opacity, you can take a page from the paint industry, which deliberately uses different particle sizes to “fill in” the gaps between particles. Of course, you could also do this by just increasing the ZnO levels… -
@milliachemist, you are correct.
Croda Formulation:Simply Lovely SC-446A light hydrosome cream. ARLAMOL™ PS15E reduces the drag of the cyclomethicone and enhances skin feel, elasticity and moisturization. ARLACEL™ 2121 forms the liquid crystalline lamellar structure of the hydrosome, reducing water evaporation from the emulsion.Ingredients %Part AARLAMOL PS15E (PPG-15 Stearyl Ether) 6.00Cyclomethicone 14.00Part BWater 69.55ARLACEL 2121 (Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate) 5.50Glycerin 4.00Xanthan Gum 0.15Part CPhenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and)Propylparaben (and) 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol 0.70Fragrance 0.10Suppliers: 1. Croda 2. Nipaguard BPX, ClariantProcedureFully disperse the xanthan gum in water. Add the Glycerin and ARLACEL 2121 to the gum/water mixture and heat up to 75°C. Homogenize for 1 minute. Mix Part A and heat up to 75°C. Slowly add Part A to Part B. Stir down to room temperature. Add Part C once the temperature drops below 40°C. -
Take the cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl (cetearyl) alcohol, and stearic acid out.