Bobzchemist
Forum Replies Created
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Sometimes, the treatments are so sticky that the pigments clump up. Try mixing them dry in a blender together with the nylon before adding them to your batch. Also, an IKA homogenizer isn’t the best option for dispersing pigments.
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Try it without the TiO2.
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Sorbitol is very sticky.
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I agree with Bill. I’d suspect that the plastic mix is inconsistent, and that the solvent is probably leaching out some of the plasticizer, leading to the plastic cracking in areas of high stress/low plasticizer - but I’d need it tested to confirm.
If I’m right, you won’t be able to use these components with any formula containing Isododecane.
If I got to pick, I’d suggest PET for containers, but the cost is high.
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How about breaking the finished soap apart with acid and then re-forming it with NaOh?
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I think your easiest move would be to go with the traditional full-boil hot process industrial-level soap making. As near as I can tell, most or all of the tallow impurities are removed during this process.
http://www.nzdl.org/gsdlmod?e=d-00000-00—off-0cdl-00-0—-0-10-0—0—0direct-10—4
0-1l-11-en-50—20-about—00-0-1-00-0-4—-0-0-11-10-0utfZz-8-00&a=d&c=cdl&cl=CL1.203&d=HASH015bbb10c6f5cb2249d93782.9#HASH015bbb10c6f5cb2249d93782.9https://www.slideshare.net/kp_abhinav/soap-manufacturing-process
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Try other pigment coatings? There are quite a few.
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Colonial manufactures it. You can probably get very fast turn-around, but there will be a significant minimum quantity. https://www.colonialchem.com
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It’s a gray area. As far as I know, they are not strictly required by federal regulation if your products are not hazardous. However, the vast majority of customers (stores, wholesalers, distributors, etc.) require them anyway, as a condition of doing business.
There are a number of services that will prepare SDS’s for you. If you can afford it, I’d suggest UL WERCS.
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It is not possible to avoid oil leakage using only bentonite and fumed silica, even if you use organically modified clays, high shear, and the correct activating agent. Some leakage will always be present unless you can add some way of re-forming the suspension matrix after it’s disrupted. Using waxes to gel the solvents is the typical way of doing this. Finding a way to make a cold-process formula as stable as a hot-process formula will be a significant challenge.
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Search “cosmetic aqueous pigment dispersant”
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Yes, sodium stearate is exactly what you get when mixing stearic acid with NaOH. It’s more convenient, too. The only reason not to use it is cost - sodium stearate is 2x-3x more expensive than the cost of making it yourself in-situ.
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I’m going to point out something that you probably don’t want to hear.
In the 20 or so years I worked in commercial color cosmetics R&D/manufacturing, no one ever made less than a 50-gram batch, and that was only in special circumstances. 99% of the work was done in 100-gram batches or larger.
Why? Because making smaller batches distorts the processing so badly that it’s almost impossible to scale up any batches smaller than 50 grams. On top of that, for batches less than 100 grams, you need to weigh your colorants to three places (0.001 grams), which is a pain in the butt.
If you never plan on making any batches larger than 30 grams, or if you don’t care about batch-to-batch repeatability, this won’t be an issue for you. But, if you are planning on eventually making larger batches, 10-30 gram batches are just wasting your time - you will have to repeat the whole color-matching process anyway when you make a larger batch.
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Did you use enough shear to fully develop the bentonite? Have you considered using pre-made gels?
Did you use fumed silica?
Are you using any waxes? -
3-roll mills don’t work for powder.
This could work:
https://www.amazon.com/Secura-Electric-Stainless-Steel-Removable-warranty/dp/B00E4KLW3Q/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EE5K7C7RBJF7MN6SS87Q -
Try some of the multi-functional ingredients like Phenethyl alcohol?
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We do the same thing that @Perry did. If you can give the fragrance house a free hand, they can design long-lasting, soap-tolerant fragrances for you. Tying their hands by being too specific (Pina colada fragrance with hints of cinnamon and chocolate, for example) may mean that you have to compromise on longevity.
Generic fragrance oils or essential oils not specifically designed to scent soap may not last long at all. Somewhere between 4%- 6% will probably be needed, even for the custom stuff.
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Generally speaking, we require that people asking for help detail the steps they’ve taken to find the information themselves first.
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There you go, then. Glycerin and Propylene Glycol are very bad dispersing agents for pigments. You need a surfactant (or two).
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I don’t see a wetting/dispersing agent for the pigments, or a suspending agent for them, or a preservative system . How did you develop this formula? What do you use to grind the pigments?
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Mark is right, we’d need to see the formula.
Typically, this sort of problem is caused by insufficient pigment wetting, but there are a half-dozen other things it could be also.
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Generally speaking, you won’t find information on the net that most people have to pay to learn:
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I think that it might be good to try thickening CCT with
https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Iso-Dimethicone-Copolymer_p_96.html
or
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Now I’m curious if the irritation is coming from the occlusivity or from issues with the ingredients themselves- have you tried lanolin, jojoba oil or silicones?