Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating mixing essential oil in a spray solution

  • mixing essential oil in a spray solution

    Posted by tracingrobots on December 16, 2017 at 7:23 am

    wondering which ingredient in this list is contributing factor in blending in essential oils in water… we trying to blend our essential oil (.02%) in our water based mist.

    Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Rosa Damascena Flower Water*, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Water*, Aqua/Water/Eau, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Beta Vulgaris/Beet Root Extract/Extrait De Racine De Betterave, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract*, Sodium Hyaluronate Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil*, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Arnica Montana (Arnica) Extract*, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Leaf Extract*, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract*, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract*, Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract*, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Superoxide Dismutase*, Soybean Peroxidase*, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract*, Sodium Phytate, Aroma**, Benzyl Alcohol, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool.

    microformulation replied 6 years, 1 month ago 12 Members · 19 Replies
  • 19 Replies
  • das

    December 16, 2017 at 8:31 am

    What you need is not in that formula. Those are extracts, which have a solvent, not essential oils.

    The most common for what you need is tween 20. 

  • tracingrobots

    December 16, 2017 at 5:32 pm

    tween 20 is toxic from what I’ve read.

  • das

    December 16, 2017 at 6:17 pm

    It has dioxane, that doesn’t mean it will cause harm.

    If you don’t want to use ethoxylated products you can use ethanol.

  • belassi

    December 16, 2017 at 6:37 pm

    tween 20 is toxic from what I’ve read
    - and where did you read this?

  • microformulation

    December 16, 2017 at 8:51 pm

    @Belassi This is an issue that needs to be discussed more in-depth.

    Firstly, Polysorbates and other ethoxylated compounds were found to have 1,4 Dioxane produced as a by product of the manufacturing process.

    Then, 1,4 Dioxane was identified as being a known carcinogen.

    So, one can assume that we must arbitrarily avoid Polysorbates, right?

    No, wrong. In response to these findings the manufacturers of these materials found new ways to reduce the concentrations of 1,4 Dioxane. In fact, one of the fields that the distributors will include on the SDS’s now is an assay of the 1,4 Dioxane levels. They allow a very low level. In fact, their allowable level is so low that in falls well within the allowable standards under California Prop 65.

    So, we can use them? Yes, but as we all know, the “natural” markets oftentimes react emotionally and after the issue of 1,4 Dioxane came up, they banned them and will likely never revisit the issue. And then perception becomes reality.

    Lastly, one should avoid throwing around the term “toxic” freely. As you know, toxic is a measurable, objective term. I feel that if one makes the statement that a product is toxic, they should be prepared to provide an LD50 and other specs to me. As we all know, the saying is (roughly), “it is the dose that makes the poison.”

  • tracingrobots

    December 17, 2017 at 7:09 am

    Thanks for that. It’s the perception that gets in the way, along the lines of parabens being toxic when it’s not.  best alternative?

  • markbroussard

    December 17, 2017 at 1:04 pm


    The best solubilizer, hands down in my opinion, is PolySugaMulse D9 … all natural and it’s performance is superb.  Excellent product.  You can buy small quantities from Formulator Sample Shop.

  • tracingrobots

    December 18, 2017 at 4:10 pm

    @MarkBroussard thanks!! will order now.  What’s the optimal w/w %?

  • tracingrobots

    December 18, 2017 at 4:57 pm

    @MarkBroussard are there other vendors that sell it? Looking for fast turnaround (shipping).

  • markbroussard

    December 18, 2017 at 6:09 pm

    Not that I am aware of … Typically 3 parts PolySugaMulse to 1 part EO does the trick, but you may need to increase that to 5:1 depending on the polarity of the EO.

  • bobzchemist

    December 19, 2017 at 3:00 am

    Colonial manufactures it. You can probably get very fast turn-around, but there will be a significant minimum quantity. https://www.colonialchem.com

  • chemicalmatt

    December 21, 2017 at 8:53 pm

    I’ll echo that comment from Mark B.  I haven’t found another fragrance solubilizer that works as well at low concentration as PolySugaMulse D9. I’m not just saying that to make Dennis Abbeduto’s career go better, either, though that would be OK too…

  • oldperry

    December 21, 2017 at 9:46 pm

    He’s actually on here @SoapyGuy

  • SoapyGuy

    December 21, 2017 at 9:53 pm

    Thanks for the mention, Perry. It’s never a one size fits all proposition, but I’m glad many have found a home for D9.

  • mghanem

    December 28, 2017 at 4:43 pm

    tracingrobots - Sugamulse D9 is great -We always keep it in stock for smaller quanities. If you order before 3pm EST, We ship same day.

    We also recommend Symbio Solv Clear -  We have it ordered and will be available to ship Jan 15th.  

    Links to the below:

    Sugarmulse D9 - http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Poly-Suga-Mulse-D9-p/fssd20016.htm

    Symbio Solv - http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Symbio-Solv-Clear-Formulator-Sample-Shop-p/fssd30040.htm

    Any questions, please let me know. Thank you.

    Maggie Ghanem
    Formulator Sample Shop

  • tracingrobots

    January 23, 2018 at 3:49 am


    Thanks for the options, advice!! We did order D9 for our mist. Wondering if it works for creams, serums as well. Will try that

  • em88

    January 23, 2018 at 7:56 am

    From the formulatorsampleshop page, it works for O/W emulsions, so yes it works for creams. 

  • tanelise

    January 23, 2018 at 5:37 pm

    @Microformulation, thanks for the info on 1,4 Dioxane. 

  • microformulation

    January 23, 2018 at 9:35 pm

    @tanelise While I know that ultimately marketing will win out on these types of ingredients, I feel it is educational to know the real Chemistry behind them and to objectively see the actual issues. Also, I enjoy hearing some of the myths. “Can’t use Propylene glycol because it is in antifreeze.” “Silicones will suffocate your hair.” The science and the marketing is often far removed from each other.

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