Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup W/Si emulsion concealer changing color as it dries

  • W/Si emulsion concealer changing color as it dries

    Posted by gld010 on December 6, 2017 at 4:21 pm

    Hey all. I’m running into some issues trying to colormatch a certain formula because the color changes. I apply a little bit on the hand and leave it to dry and it gets more red and a bit darker. This happens whether I blend the concealer into my skin before letting it dry or if I just let it dry undisturbed. Is this a pigment wetting issue? I hoped the Bentone gel and GB20 would help with that. I tend to colormatch in the continuous phase before emulsification but the color changes while drying then, too.
    I know there’s been some discussion on this forum about D5 but the client is a US only company so it’s not an issue. 

    Here is the formula (with rounded percentage, real formula has messy numbers unpleasant to look at)
    Water - 20%
    Butylene Glycol - 5%
    Glycerin+peptide blends - 0.3% (3 different ones at 0.1% each)
    Botanisil L-23 - 16%
    Botanisil GB20 - 6%
    DC fluid 556 - 3%
    Gransurf 90 - 1.25%
    Gransurf 67 - 2.5%
    Bentone gel in D5 - 7%
    Euxyl PE 9010 - 1%
    Gransil PSQ - 3%
    The rest is hydrophobic pigments treated with dimethicone and triethoxycaprylylsilane. A giant amount of pigments but the client kept asking for more coverage *shrug* 

    I combine the silicon based ingredients, DC fluid, and Euxyl in a beaker under a small Ika homogenizer at 4-5k RPM. Homogenize until texture is even. Add pigments, homogenize until pigments are fully dispersed. Add D5 bentone and homogenize until even. Then I mix together the water soluble ingredients separately and add them, bit by bit, into the solution, waiting until the prior batch of water has fully incorporated into the product before adding more. A lot of mixing and scraping happens.

    oldperry replied 6 years ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    December 8, 2017 at 5:28 pm

    Just a guess here, but could there be micro-encapsulation of your pigments happening? Once this breaks, those pigments would be looking a lot stronger if that were the case. Either that, or insufficient dispersion as you are suspecting.  As for GB20, I would not count on that material as a pigment wetter. Likewise Bentone Gel, both of which have D5.  I never considered D5 cyclomethicone to be a pigment wetter.  Try good old C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate here for that. Totally miscible with all that D5 too.

  • gld010

    December 8, 2017 at 5:41 pm

    Thanks chemicalmatt, I’ll give the C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate a try and see what happens.

  • gld010

    December 22, 2017 at 8:02 pm

    Ok, I tried between 3-5% c12-15 alkyl benzoate in the formula and the color is more stable. It’ll still change a bit on the borders while it dries and when you blend it, but the color is much more stable than it was. Very frustrating problem. Before your reply I thought it might be oxidation as it’s turning a bit darker and a bit more red, but I thought about it a bit more and there isn’t anything in there that can oxidize as far as I know. 

    If there is microencapsulation, how do you prevent that? I was thinking of switching to Lecithin coated pigments instead but they want a vegan formula and our lecithin coating is from eggs. if I used just regular non coated iron oxides that takes away from the waterproof and transfer resistant claims.

  • bobzchemist

    December 24, 2017 at 8:52 pm

    Try other pigment coatings? There are quite a few.

  • gld010

    February 28, 2018 at 4:41 pm

    Just update to this for anyone that is following or will be following since they searched the same issue I had:

    I ordered some pigment samples from Kobo that they said were good in W/Si emulsions and I’m not having any issues anymore. It was their TTB treatment: http://www.koboproductsinc.com/Downloads/Kobo-TTB.pdf

  • oldperry

    February 28, 2018 at 5:05 pm

    Thanks for the update!

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