[ariepfadli]

Fekher said:

@Paprik how stearic acid is anionic?  Actually it is fatty acid with carboxylic acid function without negative charge. 

carboxylic acid functional its acid or anionic, its wil protonated at base pH

same thing with btms with amine functional group will positively charge at low pH ( cationic)

cationic and anionic surfactant will form salt and destabilized you product.

[ariepfadli]

make sure do freeze thaw cycles  test min. 3 times  before you say your formulation are good enough

[ariepfadli]

just add oil, or silicone  to wetlook you result

[ariepfadli]

Cherma said:

Hi,

I’m working on a low cost conditioner formulation.
Its as follows and require advise/comments on how to optimize.
Its a very basic due to keeping costs down
Centrimonium Chloride 3%
Ceto Stearyl Alcohol 3%
Stearic Acid 2%
Polysorbate 60 0.05%
Mineral Oil 0.5%
Preservative
Parfum

Thanks

Dont use stearic, add more cationic surfactant (BTMS/TEGOAMID/VARISOFT BT, add more oil, add cationic polymer ( cheap like PQ7), and adjust pH arround 4 using citric, malic or formic acid,  you will get low cost conditioner with soft, silky hair result

[ariepfadli]

for hair serum i use about 30-45 ipp/combine with ipm, 25% D5, and silicone gum blend about 20%, fragrance 2-3% without any cloudy issues,phenyltrimethicone 1-4 %for shine and i will avoid high visco dimethicone, just use 5-50 cps dimethicone unless you want it oily an you hair ( you can add up to 10%)

Just eliminate all polar ingredient like keratin, acid/bases, its will be okay, for natural oil still oke okay up to 5%, just try add little by little under stirring until latest point cloudy happens.³

[ariepfadli]

Actually with surfactant quite high, you can add small amount CAPB and adjust viscosity with sodium chlorideor sodium sulphate and you can eliminate CMC and get desired viscosity.

[ariepfadli]

I used allantoin and sprinkle zinc PCA

[ariepfadli]

STPP work as water hardness reducer by capture calcium and magnesium ion, to avoid reacting with your surfactant, so it’s not anti redeposition, just make to sure your surfactant can works
more hard water more STPP,
Just try maximum combination and you can see effectiveness by how much foam can be formed during application, more foam indicate more surfactant still works

[ariepfadli]

Seems like degreaser or heavy duty cleaner, increase your sodium xylene sulphonate or addition Labs, if you don’t want, just use CMC ( carboxymethyl cellulose as thickener)

[ariepfadli]

Petroleum jelly as I assumed, it’s seem you lotion lack of builder, try increase CSA up to 3-4, and add more solubilized like GMS since you oil phase quite alot, since you use stearic acid, beware with pH because it can change viscosity based on pH of your formulation.

[ariepfadli]

See common technical sheet of wash machine energy rates or water selector level that you used during washing

[ariepfadli]

You need threeroller mixing machine for your pigment to ensure distribution, and don’t forget to add some settling prevention like hidrophobic silica fumes ( aerosil 876 cmiiw)

[ariepfadli]

Reduce your surfactant around 8-12 %( active matter) with mild surfactant, and adjust pH nearly 7.4 ( pH physiologis you eye 6.6-7. it will not burn your eyes, don’t forget to add some buffer to maintain its pH

[ariepfadli]

For polish i prefer silicone or silicone gum with some wax like carnauba or , do some dilution using odd and IPP or IPM, for shine just add phenyltrimethicone , the result will whine much longer ( in my formulation up to 2 weeks), don’t using oil because it will trap dust and need repolish in this formulation no need use preservative since it not contain any water

[ariepfadli]

Add some volatile solvent like alcohol or PG will help to break foam formed during rubbing on your skin, i also have that problem, but as serum usage not as much you apply in you hand, so it’s okay as long you rub it more slower with slight pressure the foam will disappears. If still persistent reduce viscosity or hec concentration.

[ariepfadli]

Why you adjust pH nearly 7, cloudy occurs when your amphoteric  surfactant in phase neutral ( not in ion form) and crystalized in solution,  try to adjust pH to acid or basic based on your purpose , i hope it will resolved

[ariepfadli]

Check 

Critical Micelle Concentration (CMC)

 of each surfactant that you used in formulation then multiply with 4, that minimum concentration your detergent for slightly to moderate dirt on the cloth, or multiply with 6 up to 8 for highly dirty cloth. Don’t forget to reduce active  surfactant availability based on hardness level water do you used

[ariepfadli]

It’s browning issues? Check possibilities from phenolic compound, antioxidant, reducing agent, and temperature during production untill filling product, excessive heat with long periode time processing without antioxidant and anti browning ingredient will resulted darker or browning coloration of your product

[ariepfadli]

I make micellar water using ceteareth-25, peg 7 cocoate and some amphoteric mild surfactant, with additional solubilized like PG,BG and small amount ester like IPP etc

works finely and even for heavy foundation and pen mark on skin, it’s no need to rinse, and not too foaming

[ariepfadli]

Benzyl alcohol good “cosmetic ingredient” can be used, but if you want as pesticide, you can use permethrin

[ariepfadli]

You can’t mix oil with silicone it will not clear solution, but try mix it with ester like IPP and IPM, it good compatibility

[ariepfadli]

Just add organic acid like citric acid, malic, or lactic acid, adjust pH to 3.5-5.0 for conditioner, avoid using anionic surfactant

[ariepfadli]

Combine carnauba wax with hydrophobic silica fumes like aerosil R 972 ( cmiiw), use hydrocarbon and oxygenated solvent

[ariepfadli]

Use simethicone, low speed mixing and avoid aeration

[ariepfadli]

not enough wax