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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Tear-free, non eye irritating cream cleanser

  • Tear-free, non eye irritating cream cleanser

    Posted by krupabrahmbhatt on November 22, 2022 at 5:13 pm

    Hi, I am developing a simple cleanser that doesnt cause eye irritation. Preferably PEG free. However, I cant seem to find the right surfactant system for it! 

    I have tried - Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - which are all touted to be the most non irritating surfactants. 

    Other ingredients in my formula (that i have ruled out for causing irritation) are - sclerotium gum, olivem 1000, oliwax, olive oil and geogard ultra. 

    Surfactant load level is currently around 35%. pH is around 6. 

    Any idea what it could be? OR is there a way to lower eye irritation that I am missing? 

    Paprik replied 5 months, 3 weeks ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • ketchito

    November 23, 2022 at 11:25 am

    @krupabrahmbhatt I’d suggest you to check what similar products from big brand use. Just as an idea, poloxamers are used for producta that are applied near eye area, sometimes with some polysorbate.

  • PhilGeis

    November 24, 2022 at 4:22 pm

    You can do better than just Geogard ultra.

  • Paprik

    November 25, 2022 at 6:17 am

    I think that 35% ASM is way too much for face. It is a small area and you don’t need a looooots of foam. [You don’t need excess of foam for a product to clean as a matter of fact, but we do that for customers’ perspective] 

    I would go maximum 8-10% - e.g. 5% SCI, 3% Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 2% Decyl Glucoside or some superfatting agent. 

  • krupabrahmbhatt

    November 28, 2022 at 2:10 pm

    Thank you @Paprik, ill try that out. Problem with reducing the surfactants is that the product doesnt produce enough foam. But maybe thats a compromise we make. Ill let you know how the trial goes.

    @PhilGeis okay

    @ketchito I did look to see what other brands use in tear free formulas which is why I selected the Decyl Glucoside combo. Others use PEGs but im trying to see if I can make something without PEGs that could still be tear-free. 

    Thank you for all your comments! I appreciate it very much!

  • ariepfadli

    November 29, 2022 at 6:49 pm

    Reduce your surfactant around 8-12 %( active matter) with mild surfactant, and adjust pH nearly 7.4 ( pH physiologis you eye 6.6-7.8) it will not burn your eyes, don’t forget to add some buffer to maintain its pH

  • krupabrahmbhatt

    December 7, 2022 at 7:39 pm

    Thank you @ariepfadli Ill try that out. Problem is, with a high pH level, skin feels stripped after which is also not desirable for this product. Lets see. 
    Appreciate your insight! 

  • Paprik

    December 7, 2022 at 8:47 pm

    pH around 7 is not high. It’s around neutral. Your skin can absolutely handle it. Plus, once you dilute the product with water, the pH becomes almost irrelevant. What is stripping the skin is the insane amount of surfactant active matter you used. 

    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate creates a nice, dense creamy foam. Perfect for face. You do not need crazy bubbles for such a small area, especially around eyes. 

    You can include something like superfatting agent to increase the mildness of the product.