[tonyh]

>Natural and you’re using Behentrimonium Methosulfate?  What plant does that come from?

Created from modified Rapeseed oil. 

[tonyh]

Increase your (high HLB [11] emulsifier) Cetearyl Glucoside to 1.5 - 3%

—

“We want to combine a low HLB emulsifier (the one that loves oil more) and a high HLB emulsifier (one that loves water more) at a level that will match the HLB of our oil phase. And we’ll want to add enough of these emulsifiers to ensure we get proper, stable emulsification of our product. (I’ve seen it suggested that you start at 2% and at 4% emulsifiers in your lotions. I’m going to suggest 4% for now to ensure we have enough in the lotion to be successful.)”

http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2011/04/hlb-system-introduction.html

—

Emulsifiers: What’s a complete or all-in-one emulsifier:
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2012/08/emulsifiers-whats-complete-or-all-in.html

[tonyh]

@jame - this bit is from: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2011/02/thickeners-cationic-guar-gum.html

    “As previously mentioned by Anonymous, this is a Cationic Guar and is really suitable for using with Non-ionic and Amphoteric surfactants. ALS is an Anionic and is not compatible with the Cationic Guar but is compatible with the Amphoteric (zwitteronic)Guar, Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

    This is probably why it falls out of solution (seperates)due to the differing charges. You could try using one of the Nonionic surfactants like Decyl glucoside, but am not sure what you want to formulate, as there are cleansers, moisturisers, body creams etc. which all use differing surfactants and emulsifiers.

    Also when using Guar, you really need to hydrate the Guar for some time, usually an hour or more is best but some people do it under that time frame. This is so the Guar expands like a net in the solvent, causing the viscosity in the water stage, and adds stability for further formulating. Otherwise the Guar will simply fall out of solution and you will not have the viscosity desired. Not sure if you needed to know that last bit, so I hope this all helps with your future use of using the Cationic Guar Gum:

    Hello,
    Someone asked how to make shampoo with cationic Guar so that it won’t separate.

    Step by step:

    1. Mix cationic Guar in water while stirring.
    2. Bring ph down to 3,5-4, this will make it clear and allow cationing Guar to wet properly.
    3. Mix 30 min.
    4. Add surfactants, (if using amphoteric surfactants put them firstly)
    5. Fragrance and preservatives.

    If you have failed, and your product separated at the bottom - it means cationic Guar was not wetted properly.”

—

Agar Agar, etc. as a thickener:
http://curious-soapmaker.com/how-to-make-lush-like-shower-jelly.html

[tonyh]

>Some people consider Petroleum natural since it is taken from the ground.

@Perry
Honestly, I do not see Petroleum as a bad ingredient. Not even Dimethicone too, because it is just a polymer derived from its mother element, silicon or silica.

[tonyh]

Thanks @vitalys !!! for sharing.

[tonyh]

>@tonyh whats the best proppeller blade for making hand creams?
>do u have any shape or website?

Hi @nasrins, the best impeller/blade for emulsion some say is sawtooth.

—
DIY MIXER PROJECT

I was planning to do a few mod-mixers to get pictures and videos. All that I have done I have never record the process step by step.

I am going to reveal the secret.

Why the air bubbles, why: The mistake many make is mixing emulsion using the up and down motion - is lifting the mixer above the emulsion line, out of the emulsion, and inserting it back again, etc. Constantly lifting the kitchen immersion mixer “up and down” to mix. This is a no, no. Why? When you lift the mixer head “up and down” above the emulsion line, air gets pulled into the empty space as the blade spins and makes contact back with the emulsion again.

Kitchen hand immersion mixers are great for mixing cosmetics because of their speed-rpm. I guess one can say it’s a low-end shear untamed mixing device. But there is more to shear-mixers that has to do with the mixer-head shield design; because the high-rpm and the impeller in the head creates close/near-wall jet-force as the emulsion pulls through the head.

The project I will share is for a ‘Simple DIY mixer’. The ‘Deluxe DIY Project’ is more involved and is almost shear performance.

Simple DIY inexpensive mixer:

1. Get this kitchen immersion mixer. “Cuisinart CSB-33 QuikPrep Hand Blender”. The mixer impeller/blade (as is) is decent and will create a nice vortex. If you don’t like it at that angle, just use a strong pliers to twist the blade more in the vertical:
http://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-CSB-33-QuikPrep-Blender-White/dp/B00004VXB2

2. You need an Off and On switch, which can be modified into the unit; or you can just tape a button formed from layered cardboard pasted together, etc. Put the cardboard cutout button over one of the speed button and press it in as you wrap adhesive tape around the handle to keep the button pressed in. Or you can use a rigid piece of cardboard and insert into the ‘thin bottom space’ at ‘low speed button’ of the CSB-33 switch to keep it pressed in. Or you can just Krazy glue it in. Keep in mind that the Hand Blender will be powered On at all times because the switch is held in.

3. To solve the Constant Power ON problem, use a “Speed Controller, Variable AC Motor Rheostat”. Get this one. It only works with Brush-Type Motor, which the CSB-33 is:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KAEP7A

4. The Cuisinart-CSB-33 has a plastic shield head. On the top of the plastic shield head, drill 4 holes in cross-formation. (You can use this drill bit to make the holes. Use with caution, not to damage the CSB-33 impeller, because it is fixed: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Diamond-Core-Hole-DC3124CD/dp/B009W6C10A , or just use a 1/4 inch shaft star-head screwdriver (insulate the handle) and heat it on the stove (CAUTION, BE CAREFUL!!!), and puncture holes into the top of the shield in cross-formation, since the shield is plastic.) These holes will prevent vacuum build-up and will create channel vortexes for better mixing. Also, the holes will release any trapped air in the shield-head as you insert the shaft into the syrupy emulsion. The shaft of this blender is good for a 4 quart container, because the shaft is only 5 1/2 inches long. For a 4 quart batch, leave about 1 inch shaft length above emulsion line.

5. Get this: American Educational Cast Iron Triangular Base Support Stand, 5″ Legs, 1/2″ Diameter x 24″ Length Rod Size: http://www.amazon.com/American-Educational-Triangular-Resistant-Diameter/dp/B00657VP7E
 
6. Get this: SEOH CLAMP HOLDER UNIVERSAL up to 3/4″ rod (The Pivot Clamp Holder costs 3 times more, but it allows you to angle the blender shaft): http://www.amazon.com/SEOH-CLAMP-HOLDER-UNIVERSAL-rod/dp/B0018MKX5Q

7. Get this: Talboys 916059 Nickel-Plated Zinc 2-Prong Dual Adjustment Multi-Purpose Extension Clamp, 11mm Diameter x 127mm Length Arm, 95mm Grip Size: http://www.amazon.com/Talboys-Nickel-Plated-Adjustment-Multi-Purpose-Extension/dp/B005CJV68Y

8. ASSEMBLY OF PARTS: Attach the ‘SEOH Clamp Holder Universal‘ in the vertical to the ‘American Educational Cast Iron Triangular Base Support Stand‘ and adjust and tighten. Then attach the ‘Talboys 916059 Nickel-Plated Zinc 2-Prong‘ in the horizontal to the ‘SEOH Clamp Holder Universal‘ and adjust and tighten. Then insert the Hand Blender into the ‘Talboys 916059 Nickel-Plated Zinc 2-Prong’ and adjust and tighten. Plug the Hand Blender power cord into ‘Speed Controller, Variable AC Motor Rheostat‘ socket. The Rheostat will be the master On and Off switch and speed controller. That is it.

9. Optional. (If you adjust the mixing shaft close to the edge of the container, the swivel base will make for better uniform mixing as some emulsions thicken.) LapWorks 12″ Heavy Duty Swivel With Steel Ball Bearings: http://www.amazon.com/LapWorks-Swivel-Bearings-Outdoor-Monitors/dp/B003IWFS0Y

DIY mixer affixed to a stand project complete. This mixer project is a start for ‘curious’ formulator crafters. I hope I was able to paint pictures of the steps using words.

[tonyh]

Get the actual product and use a Spectrometer with the appropriate database.

These shampoos are not difficult to prototype. They have surfactants, actives (proteins, oils, vitamins, herbs, etc.) emollients, detangling agents, thickener, PH buffer, preservative, perfume, etc.  You can start the development process using a base formula for a mild/conditioning shampoo:

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/recipes/112-Conditioning%20Shampoo%20with%20Jojoba%20Protein%20and%20Provitamin%20B5.pdf

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/recipes/113-Moisturizing%20Hair%20Shampoo%20for%20Body%20and%20Volume.pdf

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/recipes/111-Shampoo%20for%20Curly%20Hair.pdf

[tonyh]

DIY Skin Care SEA Lab: Skin Lightening: Of Natural Derivation

http://skinessentialactives.blogspot.com/2012/09/skin-lightening-of-natural-derivation.html

[tonyh]

Kalos, you need stronger skin lightening actives. For Licorice extract to be effective at such percentage in your formula to induce skin lightening the components liquiritin and isoliquertin - flavonoid containing glycosides would have to be isolated and extracted into an ingredient.  There are ingredients like that, and some manufacturers have even created “cocktail blends” of extracted herb/plant/root/vitamin/amino acid components into cosmetic ingredients. These specialty ingredients do cost a bit more. Do patch tests and see which ones work best. You can insert one…of the stronger ingredients in your formula.

I do not know how accessible some ingredients are at your location.

Some skin lightening actives:
Alpha-Arbutin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alphaflor Gigawhite, TEGO Pep 4-Even (Amino acid blend), Kojic Acid, Vitamin B3, etc.

You can combine, for example: Kojic acid (by-product from the fermentation of rice), Alpha-Arbutin (aka glycosylated hydroquinone extracted from bearberry), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Licorice root extract (from standardized powder), Mulberry root extract (from standardized powder), etc.

Some skin types are very responsive and some are very stubborn and will not lighten using either chemical or milder-nature ingredients. One case I saw, the individual used 4% Hydroquinone topical liquid by prescription and their skin did not lighten after using the entire bottle. In another case, an individual went to the dermatologist and had a strong skin lightening cream mask applied and was told their skin would start to lighten in a few days and it never did.  

increase:
Bearberry extract 4% to 10%
Licorice extract 4% to 10%

and add:
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate .2% to 10% (<-research more about insertion in formula)

Sunscreens:
OM-Cinnamate (Octyl methoxycinnamate, UVB, from plants), Avobenzone (Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane, UVA, UVB), Octocrylene (UVB), etc.

[tonyh]

Wow. I guess discoloration is natural and age spots are ok. Wave perms are ok.

Kalo did not say the formula did not work. Such a low potshot, attacking the person and formula.

It is expected and I am not surprised. We are in the era of deterioration in mannerism.

I did not find it funny.

[tonyh]

I know a formulator that used “Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride” — cationic Guar Gum (and LAMESOFT PO 65) to thicken their Coco Glucoside based conditioning shampoo.

I like Bill_Toge comment.

Tonyh

*****
“Also when using Guar, you really need to hydrate the Guar for some time, usually an hour or more is best but some people do it under that time frame. This is so the Guar expands like a net in the solvent, causing the viscosity in the water stage, and adds stability for further formulating. Otherwise the Guar will simply fall out of solution and you will not have the viscosity desired. “

“…how to make shampoo with cationic guar so that it wont separate.
Step by step:

1.Mix catinic guar in water while stirring.
2.Bring ph down to 3,5-4, this will make it clear and allow cationig guar to wet properly.
3.Mix 30 min.
4.Add surfactants, (if using amphoteric surfactants put them firstly)
5.Fragrance and preservatives.

If you have failed, and your product separated at the bottom- it means cationic guar was not wetted properly.”

Info from, more:
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2011/02/thickeners-cationic-guar-gum.html

[tonyh]

Hi Labo/Kalo,
Here’s an informative site:
…Cosmetic chemistry and other things…; use the Search entry:
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2010/02/liquorice-root-extract.html

[tonyh]

Labo is probably using Stearic Acid as a cream stiffener/thickener. Which is not strange at all. The self-emulsifier in the formula is OLIVEM 1000. Triethanolamine will saponify/emulsify the Stearic Acid into an emulsifier.

[tonyh]

In your original formula you used 10% Goat’s Milk Liquid. If the outsourced cosmetics lab is using powered Goat’s Milk, is it 10% powder? If so the preservative system seems unable to handle the 10% powder, which is more concentrated than 10% liquid Goat’s Milk.

[tonyh]

The hair conditioner is thick and in plastic tube.

[tonyh]

It is an actual hair conditioner product for the European, American, etc. market. The second ingredient is indeed alcohol; maybe part of the name is missing?

[tonyh]

Common Usage Test:
http://www.sagescript.com/microbiology

Common Usage Test
“This test is an alternative to the Challenge Test that is
recommended to home crafters who are not widely marketing their product.
It is much less quantitative and rigorous than the challenge test but
still gives useful information to fit a home crafters budget. To do
this, first send a product in for testing.  If these counts come out
zero to low it assures that you are starting with good GMP (good
manufacturing practices) and your product is without contamination. Now,
take a second sample from that batch and use and abuse it for several
days. Make sure you stick  your dirty fingers into it and leave it open –
enough abuse that you know you are getting bacteria and fungus in the
product.  Don’t hold back. Send this sample in for testing after a week
or two. This second test will tell you how your product holds up to that
insult and gives an idea how effective your preservative is.  The
counts for the second testing should be as low as the first testing. 
The cost for this would be that for two APC and fungal/yeast tests
($62).

Shelf Life of a preservative is a difficult thing to assess and can
really only be done in real time. You might try having your products
tested ever 3-6 months to estimate a shelf life or determine how long
their preservative works.”

FDA - Microbiological Methods for Cosmetics:

http://www.fda.gov/Food/FoodScienceResearch/LaboratoryMethods/ucm073598.htm

Challenge Testing or Preservative Efficacy Testing
“This is the most rigorous test to determine whether your
preservative is working. It involves introducing known bacteria (E.
Coli, Pseudomonas, and Staph) and Fungi (Aspergillus, Candida) into your
product. Plate counts are done at various times over a months period
afterward. If the preservative is working, counts will decrease within 2
weeks and not increase again after that.

The FDA does not require any microbiology testing but it is a
responsible thing to do to protect your formula and your customer. The FDA
does say that a cosmetic should not be adulterated which is interpreted
as meaning it should not contain harmful bacteria or fungus.”

Here is what the FDA guidelines say about bacteria in cosmetic products:
“Cosmetic products are not expected to be aseptic; however, they must be
completely free of high-virulence microbial pathogens, and the total
number of aerobic microorganisms per gram must be low. Since there are
no widely acceptable standards for numbers, temporary guidelines are
used instead. For eye-area products, counts should not be greater than
500 colony forming units (CFU)/g; for non-eye-area products, counts
should not be greater than 1000 CFU/g. The presence of pathogens would
be particularly important in evaluating as unacceptable a cosmetic with a
marginally acceptable count, e.g., 400 CFU/g for an eye-area product.
Pathogens or opportunistic pathogens whose incidence would be of
particular concern, especially in eye-area cosmetic products, include S.
aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, P. aeruginosa and other species, and
Klebsiella pneumoniae. Some microbes normally regarded as nonpathogenic
may be opportunistically pathogenic, e.g., in wounds.” The EU recommendations are similar.

[tonyh]

The ingredient listing is messed up - commas missing and ingredient names joined together.

[tonyh]

The quickest solution is to try an “Inline Speed Regulator Switch”. Go to link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KAEP7A/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will give you speed range variable control similar to an overhead mixer dial. Many immersion blenders only have two speed controls. These blenders were made for the kitchen and not for mixing cosmetics.

> but I was more thinking something about blade geometry

You can modify the impeller/blade by twisting it at an angle (in the direction that the blade spins) or just angle in the vertical. So that it slaps the emulsion instead of slicing into it.

Also, if you are using Xanthan Gum the traditional way, i.e. dispersed in warm/hot water before adding to water phase or cold phase, stay within 0.100% range. Shear mixers do a better job at rupturing Xanthan Gum particles.

To use Xanthan Gum successfully, it has to be dissolved 100% and I do mean dissolved. It took me one week in the lab to develop a method.

[tonyh]

Scroll down for DIY project.