Detangler - Chemists Corner

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Detangler

Posted by Sarah on July 27, 2014 at 10:17 pm

Can anyone recommend a detangling agent to add into a leave in conditioner / detangler - the customer is only working on a small scale so ideally they will need to be able to purchase in small volumes. Of course it also has to be “natural” so centrimonium chloride is out

The formulation at the moment is incredibly basic:

1.5% Behentrimonium Methosulfate & Cetearyl Alcohol

5% glycerin

0.1% tetrasodium EDTA

0.5% fragrance

0.5% preservative

Do hydrolyzed proteins e.g. silk, wheat actually work?

Cheers

bahey replied 4 years, 4 months ago 7 Members · 9 Replies
9 Replies

chemicalmatt

Member
July 30, 2014 at 5:13 pm

Gotta’ problem with silicone? Behenyl TMS will emulsify dimethicone, one of the slippery-est of detanglers. Do not add protein, it will make this tacky - the antithesis of slippery.
Bobzchemist

Member
July 30, 2014 at 5:35 pm

If I were you, I’d either use Croda’s Rejuvasoft and leave it at that.

(http://www.crodapersonalcare.com/home.aspx?view=dtl&d=content&s=157&r=401&p=2578&productName=&inciname=&application=2&subapplication=14&productfunction=7&consumerbenefit=6&prodID=2143 

Or you could also use a little Crodafos SG.

(http://www.crodapersonalcare.com/home.aspx?view=dtl&d=content&s=157&r=401&p=2578&productName=&inciname=&application=2&subapplication=14&productfunction=7&consumerbenefit=6&prodID=1971 )

If you can use silicone, then a little Arlasilk PLN will make it outstanding - but the Rejuvasoft is pretty good all by itself.

(http://www.crodapersonalcare.com/home.aspx?view=dtl&d=content&s=157&r=401&p=2578&productName=&inciname=&application=2&subapplication=14&productfunction=7&consumerbenefit=6&prodID=708 )
OldPerry

Member
July 30, 2014 at 11:14 pm
Natural and you’re using Behentrimonium Methosulfate? What plant does that come from?

Hydrolyzed proteins work as humectants but they don’t have much effect for detangling.

Maybe you could use
- Hydrogenated Palmtrimonium Chloride
It should work the same as Cetrimonium Chloride.
tonyh

Member
July 31, 2014 at 12:14 am

>Natural and you’re using Behentrimonium Methosulfate? What plant does that come from?

Created from modified Rapeseed oil.
OldPerry

Member
July 31, 2014 at 10:33 am

I guess the point is you have to go through just as much chemical synthesis to create Behentrimonium Methosulfate as you do to create Cetrimonium Chloride
DavidW

Member
July 31, 2014 at 1:55 pm

And Cetrimonium Chloride is a lot cheaper, Naturally
Sarah

Member
July 31, 2014 at 10:07 pm

Hi Everyone - thanks for your input.

I should rephrase what I meant by “natural” - my customer is a big fan of the ewg website and other scaremongering sites - so the RMs need to fit this criteria as well as all of the standard “natural” / greenwash criteria - paraben free, artificial colour free etc….. as you can imagine this has really limited my options.

I managed to convince her to use the BTMS since it has a low hazard rating on the ewg - (main roadblock being the word sulfate). Centrimonium chloride (which is what I usually would use) did not pass the ewg test.

I will propose the use of silicones but I suspect that it will be a no go - I have made up samples with Isoamyl Laurate to see if it has any detangling properties.

Thanks for the tips re the proteins - I will put the silk and wheat back onto the shelf.

Cheers

Sarah
chemicalmatt

Member
August 4, 2014 at 12:03 pm

EWG, eh? %&^%!!*%#! a$$wipes ruin many a good formulation.There - rant over!.
bahey

Member
December 30, 2019 at 9:05 am

how could i add cyclopentasiloxane to this formula without separation problems ?

please advice