Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating RE: HELP WITH MY SKIN LIGHTENING LOTION RECIPE

  • RE: HELP WITH MY SKIN LIGHTENING LOTION RECIPE

    Posted by kalos on April 11, 2014 at 4:11 pm

    Hi, Everyone,
    I am new to the group. My name is Labo and i live in Nigeria.
    I am trying to formulate a natural skin lightening lotion.
    no claims on label but that is my aim.
    my recipe is as shown below.
    Can anyone help? i will appreciate it
    Thank you

    WATER PHASE %
    DISTILLED WATER 67.9
    SODIUN CITRATE 0.5
    NEO DEFEND 0.9
    GLYCERIN 2.3

    OIL PHASE
    MORINGA OIL 6.4
    JOJOBA OIL 2.3
    GRAPESEED OIL 2.3
    COCONUT OIL 2.3
    OLIVEM 1000 5.1
    STEARIC ACID 2.3

    COOL DOWN PHASE
    HERBAL EXTRACT-PAPAYA 4.0
    HERBAL EXTRACT-BEARBERRY 0.5
    HERBAL EXTRACT-LICORICE 0.5
    ROSEMARY CO2 OR ROE 0.5
    ESSENTIAL OILS 0.5
    DRY FLO 0.5
    ZNO 0.5
    VIT E 0.5

    AuroraBorealis replied 8 years, 6 months ago 13 Members · 36 Replies
  • 36 Replies
  • Ayman

    Member
    April 12, 2014 at 8:28 am

    hi labo i am Ayman from Egypt i think this formula must add to it triethanol  with percentage from 1.5% to 3%  to be stable.

  • kalos

    Member
    April 12, 2014 at 10:58 am

    Thank you but I don’t know if it is a natural product or not. I will look it up. Thank you very much.

  • kalos

    Member
    April 12, 2014 at 1:22 pm

    I have checked it and it is not a natural ingredient. By the way I use sodium citrate as my pH adjuster is that not okay? Please let me know if that is what you want me to change. Thank you

  • OldPerry

    Member
    April 12, 2014 at 2:02 pm

    Hello @kalos,

    What do you want help with?  It looks like you already have a formula.  Is there a problem with it?
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    April 12, 2014 at 10:12 pm

    Stearic acid must be neutralized for stability.

  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    April 13, 2014 at 4:47 am

    Perry - in another forum Kalos said were they looking to improve upon the formula to make “lighten” more and the pH of the lotion was 5.5. 

  • Ayman

    Member
    April 13, 2014 at 7:07 am

    hi kalos i mean such as bob you must use neutralized such as triethanolamine.

  • kalos

    Member
    April 13, 2014 at 12:17 pm

    Thank you all.

    The problem is that the lotion is not effective,we n are not getting lighter. a few customers claim it is working for them but i don’t know if they are doing anything else. 
    I want a more potent lotion
    What natural ingredient can i use to neutralize the lotion?
    Thank you
  • Tiare

    Member
    April 13, 2014 at 5:18 pm

    Hi Kalos, 

    Licorice root extract is meant to be a good natural skin lightening agent.

    Have you tried that?
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    April 13, 2014 at 10:47 pm

    @Kalos,

    Are you a chemist?
  • tonyh

    Member
    April 14, 2014 at 7:31 pm

    Labo is probably using Stearic Acid as a cream stiffener/thickener. Which is not strange at all. The self-emulsifier in the formula is OLIVEM 1000. Triethanolamine will saponify/emulsify the Stearic Acid into an emulsifier.

  • kalos

    Member
    April 14, 2014 at 10:16 pm

    i am not a chemist.

    i use licorice root and bearberryextracts but have not seen results.
    i only want to use natural ingredients no chemicals at all so Triethanolmine is not an option for me since it is not a natural ingredient
    thank you
  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    April 15, 2014 at 8:04 am

    In the US, skin lightening products are FDA regulated pharmaceuticals. Since you’re not a professional, it’s just too legally risky to give you any advice, sorry.

  • kalos

    Member
    April 15, 2014 at 3:03 pm

    I AM MAKING THESE AS NATURAL PRODUCTS AND NOT USING ANY CHEMICALS.

    ALSO I AGREE THAT I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL BUT I AM LEARNING. I AM A SCIENTIST THOUGH NOT A CHEMIST SO I CAN LEARN. 
    HOWEVER IF YOU FEEL YOU CANT ADVISE, I RESPECT YOUR OPINION
    THANK YOU
  • tonyh

    Member
    April 16, 2014 at 9:54 am

    Hi Labo/Kalo,
    Here’s an informative site:
    …Cosmetic chemistry and other things…; use the Search entry:
    http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com/2010/02/liquorice-root-extract.html

  • kalos

    Member
    April 18, 2014 at 8:51 am

    Thank you

    Unfortunately, i am not able to open these site for one reason or the other.
    I will keep trying. 
    Thank you very much
  • OldPerry

    Member
    April 18, 2014 at 9:57 am

    The answer is simple.  The formula is not working because licorice root and bearberryextracts do not work to lighten skin.  

    “i only want to use natural ingredients no chemicals at all so Triethanolmine is not an option for me since it is not a natural ingredient”
    It is no wonder that your products do not work.  There is a reason that the modern cosmetic industry uses synthetic compounds to make products.  Because things found in nature mostly do not work.
    You can make products that do not work with natural ingredients or you can make products that work using the best technology.  It’s up to you.
  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 18, 2014 at 11:05 am

    @Perry Well if natural is so beloved then stay with the natural color, why change it :-) Am I right Perry?

  • OldPerry

    Member
    April 18, 2014 at 1:41 pm

    @milliachemist - lol!  Excellent point.  I didn’t even think of that.

  • tonyh

    Member
    April 18, 2014 at 2:15 pm

    Wow. I guess discoloration is natural and age spots are ok. Wave perms are ok.

    Kalo did not say the formula did not work. Such a low potshot, attacking the person and formula.

    It is expected and I am not surprised. We are in the era of deterioration in mannerism.

    I did not find it funny.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    April 18, 2014 at 4:06 pm

    @tonyh - I’m sorry, I didn’t mean to offend nor was I attacking his formula or the formulator.  Text is not always the best way to get across one’s meaning.

    Kalo did say the formula did not work.  He said, “The problem is that the lotion is not effective,we n are not getting lighter”

    If that doesn’t mean that the product does not work, what does it mean?
    But you’re right, I should have been more diplomatic in my response & certainly wasn’t trying to attack anyone.  Kalo asked why his lotion was not effective and I gave my opinion.    
  • tonyh

    Member
    April 19, 2014 at 1:02 am

    Kalos, you need stronger skin lightening actives. For Licorice extract to be effective at such percentage in your formula to induce skin lightening the components liquiritin and isoliquertin - flavonoid containing glycosides would have to be isolated and extracted into an ingredient.  There are ingredients like that, and some manufacturers have even created “cocktail blends” of extracted herb/plant/root/vitamin/amino acid components into cosmetic ingredients. These specialty ingredients do cost a bit more. Do patch tests and see which ones work best. You can insert one…of the stronger ingredients in your formula.

    I do not know how accessible some ingredients are at your location.

    Some skin lightening actives:
    Alpha-Arbutin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Alphaflor Gigawhite, TEGO Pep 4-Even (Amino acid blend), Kojic Acid, Vitamin B3, etc.

    You can combine, for example: Kojic acid (by-product from the fermentation of rice), Alpha-Arbutin (aka glycosylated hydroquinone extracted from bearberry), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Licorice root extract (from standardized powder), Mulberry root extract (from standardized powder), etc.

    Some skin types are very responsive and some are very stubborn and will not lighten using either chemical or milder-nature ingredients. One case I saw, the individual used 4% Hydroquinone topical liquid by prescription and their skin did not lighten after using the entire bottle. In another case, an individual went to the dermatologist and had a strong skin lightening cream mask applied and was told their skin would start to lighten in a few days and it never did.  

    increase:
    Bearberry extract 4% to 10%
    Licorice extract 4% to 10%

    and add:
    Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate .2% to 10% (<-research more about insertion in formula)

    Sunscreens:
    OM-Cinnamate (Octyl methoxycinnamate, UVB, from plants), Avobenzone (Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane, UVA, UVB), Octocrylene (UVB), etc.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 19, 2014 at 5:47 am

    @tonyh Apologies if I offended by my choice of words.

  • kalos

    Member
    April 25, 2014 at 9:45 am

    Thank you very much Tony.

    Just trying a sample now where i have increased both licorice and bearberry to 10% and added niacinamde and pro Vit B.
    Will keep you updated
    Thank you
  • tonyh

    Member
    May 17, 2014 at 4:46 am

    DIY Skin Care SEA Lab: Skin Lightening: Of Natural Derivation

    http://skinessentialactives.blogspot.com/2012/09/skin-lightening-of-natural-derivation.html

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