Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Cream fail?

  • Cream fail?

    Posted by Anonymous on July 30, 2014 at 3:21 pm


    This is the formula of a cream that we are making. For some reason it gets these bubbly effect and it doesn’t really emulsify well. It gets water at the bottom of the bottle after a few hours…. Anybody see a problem? Thanks to everyone taking the time to help!

    tonyh replied 9 years, 11 months ago 1 Member · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Anonymous

    July 30, 2014 at 6:22 pm

    Where it says Sodium Laurouyl Lactylate it is meant to say Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate.

  • tonyh

    July 30, 2014 at 7:42 pm

    Increase your (high HLB [11] emulsifier) Cetearyl Glucoside to 1.5 - 3%

    “We want to combine a low HLB emulsifier (the one that loves oil more) and a high HLB emulsifier (one that loves water more) at a level that will match the HLB of our oil phase. And we’ll want to add enough of these emulsifiers to ensure we get proper, stable emulsification of our product. (I’ve seen it suggested that you start at 2% and at 4% emulsifiers in your lotions. I’m going to suggest 4% for now to ensure we have enough in the lotion to be successful.)”


    Emulsifiers: What’s a complete or all-in-one emulsifier:

  • Anonymous

    July 31, 2014 at 3:09 pm

    Thanks for getting back to me @tonyh. I ued a HLB calculator and calculated that with 5% squalaine I need to use Cetearyl Glucoside (HLB 11) at 3% and Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (HLB 17) at 1%. But what about my other emulsifier that I want to use Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (HLB 11). As it has the same HLB as Cetearyl Glucoside, can I use half and half of these two emulsifiers?

    What about Jojoba Esters? I need to inlcude it in the calculation, but I don’t know the HLB? The information I found was this:


  • tonyh

    July 31, 2014 at 5:34 pm

    >What about Jojoba Esters? I need to inlcude it in the calculation,
    >but I don’t know the HLB? The information I found was this

    Oil/fats/esters: Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Jojoba Esters, Vitamin E, Essential Oils. You have about 10% oil-based materials.

    Use Cetearyl Glucoside (HLB 11) at 3%                  - (stop at 6%)
    Use Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (HLB 17) at 1.5%    - (stop at 2%)
    Use Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (HLB 11) at 3%          - (stop at 3.5%)

    You already experienced a session where the emulsifiers were not enough in percentages. When emulsion is drunk on emulsifiers - when you rub it into the skin it gets real soapy until it eventually absorb/blend into the skin from rubbing. When that happens, start subtracting. Trim the emulsifiers down to where the cream look (viscosity wise, stability wise) and feel the way you like.

    For Jojoba Esters 70, choose one number or average both numbers to HLB 7. Contact the manufacturer for more information.

    Cetearyl Glucoside:
    An emulsifier (Similar to OLIVEM 1000).

    Glyceryl Stearate Citrate:
    Emulsifier of natural origin for O/W emulsions.

    Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate:
    Co-emulsifier; Improves skin feeling; Co-surfactant, improves foaming properties.

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