[tonyh]

Ceteareth 25 does not offer holding features like Carbomer. Ceteareth 25 is a “Colloid stabilizing emulsifier”. That means it will “gel” net your ingredients, into a soft or a very firm form, depending on the percentage used in the formula.

You can turn your process into a one pot. Do not cool-down formula to where it becomes opaque, before it reaches that stage, hot pour in jar to cool-down and set.

And Glycerin or any other humectants must be used to small amounts to not override the holding effect of PVP or similar. PEG helps improve emulsion stability for hot pour.

[tonyh]

Ancient Roman cosmetics: Skin cream from the 2nd century A.D.

“This cream had a pleasant texture when rubbed into the skin. Although it felt greasy initially, owing to the fat melting as a result of body heat, this was quickly overtaken by the smooth, powdery texture created by the starch. Remarkably, starch is still used for this purpose in modern cosmetics. The addition of SnO2 to the starch/fat base confers a white opacity, which is consistent with the cream being a cosmetic. Fashionable Roman women aspired to a fair complexion, and the Londinium cream may have served as a foundation layer.”

In a 2004 Nature paper, Evershed’s team announced that “the Londinium cream” was primarily made up of animal fat, probably from cattle or sheep. They also detected starch, which was likely isolated by boiling roots and grains in water. In addition, the cream contained a tin dioxide mineral called cassiterite with the chemical formula SnO2.

http://cenblog.org/artful-science/2013/01/14/ancient-roman-cosmetics-skin-cream-from-the-2nd-century-a-d/

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/england/london/3101701.stm

http://www.theguardian.com/uk/2003/jul/28/artsnews.london

[tonyh]

>Will now look for a high torgue and high speed electric drill, and use tonyh’s
>idea of using the “Speed Controller, Variable AC Motor Rheostat” (from his post above)

@johnsutw:  The plan I gave above is just a surface (not too involved) plan. In this plan the “Speed Controller” does not range from 0 - 15,000 rpm (etc). To have 100% rpm Rheostat control, the 2-speed switch in the stick blender has to be disabled internally. (Many squirm at this dirty work).  Doing this will give the Rheostat 100% speed control from 0 to 15,000 rpm (for example). You will be able to mix gels, shampoos, etc.

If you are going to mount the drill to a lab stand, and to have 100% speed control, you are going to have to disable the power switch and connect the wires from motor to internal power cable of drill. As is, the drill switch is between the motor and power cable. If you can do that, then connect the Rheostat always, and buy shafts and blades/impellers.

[tonyh]

Decrease the GLYCERIN to .5% and increase the PVP K90 to 15%

[tonyh]

Croda - REJUVASOFT - Your Instant Conditioner

The REJUVASOFT conditioning system is a major innovation in the conditioning market. It delivers combing and detangling benefits plus the attributes that consumers perceive as moisturization, all in a simple, easy-to-use pastille. REJUVASOFT delivers that “moisturized” feeling to hair, while softening each fiber, leaving hair beautiful and manageable. In salon evaluations consumers are not able to discern the difference between the REJUVASOFT plus water and a leading brand conditioner. Making this high performance conditioner has never been easier – simply add heat and water.

Speciality blend:
INCI - Quaternium-91 (and) Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Myristyl Myristate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Formula:

Ingredients                %
Deionized Water      92.70
REJUVASOFT          6.00
Preservative              0.80
Fragrance                 0.50

http://www.croda.com/print.aspx?d=content&s=157&r=401&p=2805&print=1

[tonyh]

@nasrins - keep the leave-in spray water percentage at 80% and above.

This is a good example with Carbomer and Triethanolamine.

Spray Hair Gel:
https://www.lubrizol.com/PersonalCare/S-G0010-Spray-Hair-Gel.pdf

 

[tonyh]

Yes.  >If I remove beeswax,vaselin and carbomer , it becomes so thin…

If you wish to keep them, add them at 0.1% each for liquid paraffin, beeswax and vaselin. For carbomer 0.05% and tea 0.05%

[tonyh]

There was a spray some years back that was a slight gel liquid with alcohol and water. It was a setting lotion. Can’t remember the name at the moment.    >I think its difficult to have a hair mask with carbomer which  I can spray it.

[tonyh]

For leave-in lotion in squirt bottle. Increase polysorbate80 to 4%.

For leave-in spray replace the liquid paraffin, beeswax and vaselin, with oil. Jojoba oil at 2% can be the only oil or share it with another oil.  Remove the carbomer and TEA, and increase polysorbate80 to 3 or 4% (depending on oil percentage).

[tonyh]

>They literally turn your hair into cement!

Water-Based Hair Pomade With Hold #2

Ingredients:
WATER (AQUA) -  65.6%
CETEARETH-25 - 15%
GLYCERIN - 3%
PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE - 3.5%
PEG 40 HYDROGENTATED CASTOR OIL 2%
PVP K90 - 7%
PROPYLENE GLYCOL - 2%
SIMETHICONE - 0.5%
DMDM HYDANTOIN - 0.4%
FRAGRANCE (PARFUM) - 0.6%
PEG-8 BEESWAX - 0.2%
POLYSORBATE 20 - 0.2%

Fixate™ Superhold polymer.  >(Fixate, VP/VA)

[tonyh]

Water-Based Hair Pomade With Hold

Ingredients:
WATER (AQUA) -  60.5%
CETEARETH-25 - 15%
GLYCERIN - 7% - Moisture attraction
PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE - 3.5%
PEG 40 HYDROGENTATED CASTOR OIL 2%
PVP K90 - 3% - Fixative hold style. Increase to see if you get better hold. Try other polymers too.
PROPYLENE GLYCOL - 4%
SIMETHICONE - 1%
DMDM HYDANTOIN - 0.4%
FRAGRANCE (PARFUM) - 0.6%
PEG-8 BEESWAX - 2%
POLYSORBATE 20 - 1%

[tonyh]

@bohnjowers: Decrease (or omit) your Glycerin level, because it overrides the PVP holding effect. Glycerin attracts moisture to the hair.

With the fats in your formula, maybe you can try adding a little ‘Isopropyl Myristate’ to lessen the oil feel/effect. >a strong fixative effect

[tonyh]

@nasrin: try a new base formula. instead of using carbomer and tea, try something like BTMS [Behentrimonium Methosulphate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol]. The glycerin level is high in your formula so the spray on liquid is going to attract moisture to the hair making it soft. This type of hair leave-in works well on dry brittle hair.

For leave-in with less softening, try something like Polysorbate-80 coupled with a quaternary you can better control.

[tonyh]

What degree of opacity?   >opacifier

You can add small percentages of fatty alcohol…like Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, etc. and a little emulsifier like Glyceryl Stearate to cloud the gel. Used in formulas with carbomer and TEA. These types of gel-creams dissipate quickly in the hair.

Check ingredients in eye gel formulas. Some eye gels are very transparent and some are cloudy.

All the very opaque leave-in hair gel-cream I have seen has small percentages of fatty alcohols and emulsifiers.

Example ingredients list:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jS5VZhSj_mI/Ti-6GtgSfVI/AAAAAAAAAV0/jsRLgweQpjQ/s1600/LustiBraids2.jpg

I have done tests just using Water, Xanthan Gum (about 1%) and Emulsifying Wax NF (about 1.5%). Agitate on low speed. And a very opaque cream resulted that was non-greasy. It had a silky finish, but the cream was not firm. To firm the cream slightly I would have add a small percentage of an additional gum or some other thickener.

[tonyh]

How to Calculate Molar Mass, video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9NkYSKJifs

Molecular Weight Calculator:
http://www.lenntech.com/calculators/molecular/molecular-weight-calculator.htm

Mass-Mole Calculations (moles = mass ÷ molar mass):
http://www.ausetute.com.au/massmole.html

Tutorials: Calculating Molecular Weight / Molar Mass:
http://www.chemcollective.org/activities/tutorials/stoich/calculating_molecular_weight

Intro: MOLAR MASS, MOLECULAR WEIGHT AND ELEMENTAL COMPOSITION CALCULATOR
http://www.webqc.org/mmcalc.php

[tonyh]

Try: Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC)

[tonyh]

@milliachemist - Well, it has been formulated into clear shampoos. Yes.  And also opaque shampoos as well (using Glycol Distearate).  >preferred for clear shampoos

Things to be aware of when using Piroctone Olamine:

Piroctone Olamine is a little fussy, it needs a suspending/stabilizing ingredient like “Dehydrogenated Tallow Phthalic Acid Amide” (opaque shampoo) or “Tea-Lauryl Sulfate” (clear shampoo), for example. As without stabilization it separates.

For hair conditioner rinse out - the stabilizer can be HEC (HydroxyEthyl Cellulose), etc.

For scalp toner it dissolves and stabilizes in Alcohol.

And ‘Piroctone Olamine’ does not like nitrosating ingredients; examples: Amines (Triethanolamine), Proteins, Cocamide diethanolamine (DEA) [Note: Although I have seen it used in a formula], Cocamide monoethanolamine (MEA), etc.

[tonyh]

@nasrins - research “Piroctone Olamine”. It’s used as a replacement for “Zinc Pyrithione”.

[tonyh]

Mark - Microformulation - August 16
Even simpler, test your pH first, especially with shampoos when thickening is an issue. I get about 5 “emergency” calls a year…”My shampoo isn’t thickening.” I ask “What is the pH?” Half an hour later I usually hear “Never mind, it’s fixed.”

Link:  https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/491/how-to-diagnose-a-production-batch-failure

[tonyh]

@nasrins
Maybe why it’s not overly expensive is because it is not hydrolyzed, but only a contact exchange would
clarify that. Their website description says nothing about it being hydrolyzed.

BASF sells ‘Complexe Caviar LS 9747’ which is hydrolyzed.

When supercharge it makes a wonderful face cream. Same for Collagen and Elastin too.

[tonyh]

For example “hair relaxer”? And the main vessel would be the combine phase?

[tonyh]

@Zink - check out “Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 7” for Purifying Clay Face Mask base formula.

[tonyh]

@danielyau

- Caviar Extract - 1 kg  -  Price:$70.50

http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FSS10357

[tonyh]

@Rencelj  - check out “Dr Straetmans Standard Formulary” pdf - 2009, 2011, 2012 - use GOOGLE to search. Has formulas that include polymer, Stearic acid and KOH (they give the solution as 10%) and the method to put it together.

[tonyh]

>What about Jojoba Esters? I need to inlcude it in the calculation,
>but I don’t know the HLB? The information I found was this

Oil/fats/esters: Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Jojoba Esters, Vitamin E, Essential Oils. You have about 10% oil-based materials.

Use Cetearyl Glucoside (HLB 11) at 3%                  - (stop at 6%)
Use Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (HLB 17) at 1.5%    - (stop at 2%)
Use Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (HLB 11) at 3%          - (stop at 3.5%)

You already experienced a session where the emulsifiers were not enough in percentages. When emulsion is drunk on emulsifiers - when you rub it into the skin it gets real soapy until it eventually absorb/blend into the skin from rubbing. When that happens, start subtracting. Trim the emulsifiers down to where the cream look (viscosity wise, stability wise) and feel the way you like.

For Jojoba Esters 70, choose one number or average both numbers to HLB 7. Contact the manufacturer for more information.

Cetearyl Glucoside:
An emulsifier (Similar to OLIVEM 1000).

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate:
Emulsifier of natural origin for O/W emulsions.

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate:
Co-emulsifier; Improves skin feeling; Co-surfactant, improves foaming properties.