Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating leave on hair mask

  • leave on hair mask

    Posted by nasrins on September 17, 2014 at 4:56 am

     I made hair mask(leave on) with this formula
    water 75%
    carbomer 0.25%
    TEA 0.1%
    propylene glycole 12%
    glycerin 10%
    EDTZ 0.05

    I dont have oil phase in it however I want to make it opaque, Can I use opulyn 301? or another way?
    and another problem is that its durability is low , how can I improve it?

    nasrins replied 9 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 22 Replies
  • 22 Replies
  • Chemist77

    September 17, 2014 at 5:03 am

    You can try Acusol OP305 as well, I use it for my very high pH products. So I am sure the formulation seems to be fine to accept this as an opacifier.
    Though I am still unsure what you mean by durability here???????????

  • nasrins

    September 17, 2014 at 5:39 am

    it means that after 10 minutes after using u feel nothing on ur hair…
     opulyn 301 is ok?

  • nasrins

    September 17, 2014 at 5:44 am

    I thinks it(opulyn 301) is just useful for shower gels or shampoos

  • Chemist77

    September 17, 2014 at 5:48 am

    You want to use it as an opacifier or a film former?????????? 

    I feel that Opulyn might (very remotely though) feel heavier compared to Acusol OP305, but try it and see it for yourself. I might be wrong too. 
    PS: Opulyn is more viscous compared to Acusol OP305, so you might look at percentage also in the formulation. 
  • nasrins

    September 17, 2014 at 6:13 am

    what If I add cetearyl alocoh?

  • Chemist77

    September 17, 2014 at 7:04 am

    Acusol and Opulyn are emulsifiers and the fatty alcohol wouldn’t work as an opacifier.
    Do some trials and better have a first hand info.


  • tonyh

    September 18, 2014 at 7:53 am

    What degree of opacity?   >opacifier

    You can add small percentages of fatty alcohol…like Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, etc. and a little emulsifier like Glyceryl Stearate to cloud the gel. Used in formulas with carbomer and TEA. These types of gel-creams dissipate quickly in the hair.

    Check ingredients in eye gel formulas. Some eye gels are very transparent and some are cloudy.

    All the very opaque leave-in hair gel-cream I have seen has small percentages of fatty alcohols and emulsifiers.

    Example ingredients list:

    I have done tests just using Water, Xanthan Gum (about 1%) and Emulsifying Wax NF (about 1.5%). Agitate on low speed. And a very opaque cream resulted that was non-greasy. It had a silky finish, but the cream was not firm. To firm the cream slightly I would have add a small percentage of an additional gum or some other thickener.

  • nasrins

    September 20, 2014 at 1:47 pm

    @tonyh not very much opaque I mean cloudy.. I added cetearyl alcohol after above hair mask produced,it becomes cloudy but emulsion seperates..
    another issue is that I want to spary it but viscosity is high…

  • tonyh

    September 20, 2014 at 4:46 pm

    @nasrin: try a new base formula. instead of using carbomer and tea, try something like BTMS [Behentrimonium Methosulphate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol]. The glycerin level is high in your formula so the spray on liquid is going to attract moisture to the hair making it soft. This type of hair leave-in works well on dry brittle hair.

    For leave-in with less softening, try something like Polysorbate-80 coupled with a quaternary you can better control.

  • nasrins

    September 21, 2014 at 4:53 am

    I tried this formula too

    a      water 70%/   carbomer 0.2%/   weath  germ extract/   propylen glycol 5%/    methyl paraben

    b    liquid paraffin 5%/   polysorbate80  1%/   beeswax 1%/  vaselin 1%/    jojoba oil 0.8%/   cetyl alcohol 1.5%/   TEA 0.2%/   peg12-dimethicone 0.5%/   propyl paraben 0.1%

    still I cant spray it (viscosity is high), but the emulsion isnt stable after several days( it seperates)   

    maybe its better to decrease carbomer again and increase polysorbate 80


  • nasrins

    September 21, 2014 at 4:58 am

    @tonyh I think its difficult to have a hair mask with carbomer which  I can spray it.

  • tonyh

    September 21, 2014 at 5:18 am

    For leave-in lotion in squirt bottle. Increase polysorbate80 to 4%.

    For leave-in spray replace the liquid paraffin, beeswax and vaselin, with oil. Jojoba oil at 2% can be the only oil or share it with another oil.  Remove the carbomer and TEA, and increase polysorbate80 to 3 or 4% (depending on oil percentage).

  • tonyh

    September 21, 2014 at 5:22 am

    There was a spray some years back that was a slight gel liquid with alcohol and water. It was a setting lotion. Can’t remember the name at the moment.    >I think its difficult to have a hair mask with carbomer which  I can spray it.

  • nasrins

    September 21, 2014 at 5:31 am

    If I remove beeswax,vaselin and carbomer , it becomes so thin…

  • Chemist77

    September 21, 2014 at 5:34 am

    And how do you propose to handle the beeswax or just suspend it in the carbomer slurry?????
    Carbopol has a yield value (a resistance to flow), I am not sure if this is the right polymer for your spray.

  • tonyh

    September 21, 2014 at 5:35 am

    Yes.  >If I remove beeswax,vaselin and carbomer , it becomes so thin…

    If you wish to keep them, add them at 0.1% each for liquid paraffin, beeswax and vaselin. For carbomer 0.05% and tea 0.05%

  • nasrins

    September 21, 2014 at 5:55 am

    @millia carbomer is ok I use lubrizol formulation


    @tonyh Ok I will try 0.1%

  • edward

    September 21, 2014 at 8:23 am

    hello. you seem to be so far away from a spray, leave on hair mask. It really is a very professional job, and that unfortunately does not come free.

  • tonyh

    September 21, 2014 at 9:38 am

    @nasrins - keep the leave-in spray water percentage at 80% and above.

    This is a good example with Carbomer and Triethanolamine.

    Spray Hair Gel:


  • Bobzchemist

    September 21, 2014 at 11:11 am
  • tonyh

    September 21, 2014 at 11:33 am

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  • nasrins

    September 22, 2014 at 6:17 am

    thank u to every body….

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