Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating leave on hair mask

  • leave on hair mask

    Posted by nasrins on September 17, 2014 at 4:56 am

     I made hair mask(leave on) with this formula
    water 75%
    carbomer 0.25%
    TEA 0.1%
    PEG12-dimethicone
    propylene glycole 12%
    glycerin 10%
    EDTZ 0.05
    preservative

    I dont have oil phase in it however I want to make it opaque, Can I use opulyn 301? or another way?
    and another problem is that its durability is low , how can I improve it?

    nasrins replied 9 years, 8 months ago 5 Members · 22 Replies
  • 22 Replies
  • Chemist77

    Member
    September 17, 2014 at 5:03 am

    You can try Acusol OP305 as well, I use it for my very high pH products. So I am sure the formulation seems to be fine to accept this as an opacifier.
    Though I am still unsure what you mean by durability here???????????

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 17, 2014 at 5:39 am

    it means that after 10 minutes after using u feel nothing on ur hair…
     opulyn 301 is ok?

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 17, 2014 at 5:44 am

    I thinks it(opulyn 301) is just useful for shower gels or shampoos

  • Chemist77

    Member
    September 17, 2014 at 5:48 am

    You want to use it as an opacifier or a film former?????????? 

    I feel that Opulyn might (very remotely though) feel heavier compared to Acusol OP305, but try it and see it for yourself. I might be wrong too. 
    PS: Opulyn is more viscous compared to Acusol OP305, so you might look at percentage also in the formulation. 
  • nasrins

    Member
    September 17, 2014 at 6:13 am

    opacifier
    what If I add cetearyl alocoh?

  • Chemist77

    Member
    September 17, 2014 at 7:04 am

    Acusol and Opulyn are emulsifiers and the fatty alcohol wouldn’t work as an opacifier.
    Do some trials and better have a first hand info.

    Cheers

  • tonyh

    Member
    September 18, 2014 at 7:53 am

    What degree of opacity?   >opacifier

    You can add small percentages of fatty alcohol…like Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, etc. and a little emulsifier like Glyceryl Stearate to cloud the gel. Used in formulas with carbomer and TEA. These types of gel-creams dissipate quickly in the hair.

    Check ingredients in eye gel formulas. Some eye gels are very transparent and some are cloudy.

    All the very opaque leave-in hair gel-cream I have seen has small percentages of fatty alcohols and emulsifiers.

    Example ingredients list:
    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jS5VZhSj_mI/Ti-6GtgSfVI/AAAAAAAAAV0/jsRLgweQpjQ/s1600/LustiBraids2.jpg

    I have done tests just using Water, Xanthan Gum (about 1%) and Emulsifying Wax NF (about 1.5%). Agitate on low speed. And a very opaque cream resulted that was non-greasy. It had a silky finish, but the cream was not firm. To firm the cream slightly I would have add a small percentage of an additional gum or some other thickener.

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 20, 2014 at 1:47 pm

    @tonyh not very much opaque I mean cloudy.. I added cetearyl alcohol after above hair mask produced,it becomes cloudy but emulsion seperates..
    another issue is that I want to spary it but viscosity is high…

  • tonyh

    Member
    September 20, 2014 at 4:46 pm

    @nasrin: try a new base formula. instead of using carbomer and tea, try something like BTMS [Behentrimonium Methosulphate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol]. The glycerin level is high in your formula so the spray on liquid is going to attract moisture to the hair making it soft. This type of hair leave-in works well on dry brittle hair.

    For leave-in with less softening, try something like Polysorbate-80 coupled with a quaternary you can better control.

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 4:53 am

    I tried this formula too

    a      water 70%/   carbomer 0.2%/   weath  germ extract/   propylen glycol 5%/    methyl paraben

    b    liquid paraffin 5%/   polysorbate80  1%/   beeswax 1%/  vaselin 1%/    jojoba oil 0.8%/   cetyl alcohol 1.5%/   TEA 0.2%/   peg12-dimethicone 0.5%/   propyl paraben 0.1%

    still I cant spray it (viscosity is high), but the emulsion isnt stable after several days( it seperates)   

    maybe its better to decrease carbomer again and increase polysorbate 80

     

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 4:58 am

    @tonyh I think its difficult to have a hair mask with carbomer which  I can spray it.

  • tonyh

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 5:18 am

    For leave-in lotion in squirt bottle. Increase polysorbate80 to 4%.

    For leave-in spray replace the liquid paraffin, beeswax and vaselin, with oil. Jojoba oil at 2% can be the only oil or share it with another oil.  Remove the carbomer and TEA, and increase polysorbate80 to 3 or 4% (depending on oil percentage).

  • tonyh

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 5:22 am

    There was a spray some years back that was a slight gel liquid with alcohol and water. It was a setting lotion. Can’t remember the name at the moment.    >I think its difficult to have a hair mask with carbomer which  I can spray it.

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 5:31 am

    If I remove beeswax,vaselin and carbomer , it becomes so thin…

  • Chemist77

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 5:34 am

    And how do you propose to handle the beeswax or just suspend it in the carbomer slurry?????
    Carbopol has a yield value (a resistance to flow), I am not sure if this is the right polymer for your spray.

  • tonyh

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 5:35 am

    Yes.  >If I remove beeswax,vaselin and carbomer , it becomes so thin…

    If you wish to keep them, add them at 0.1% each for liquid paraffin, beeswax and vaselin. For carbomer 0.05% and tea 0.05%

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 5:55 am

    @millia carbomer is ok I use lubrizol formulation

    https://www.lubrizol.com/PersonalCare/E-0006-Ethnic-Hair-Lotion.pdf

    @tonyh Ok I will try 0.1%

  • edward

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 8:23 am

    hello. you seem to be so far away from a spray, leave on hair mask. It really is a very professional job, and that unfortunately does not come free.

  • tonyh

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 9:38 am

    @nasrins - keep the leave-in spray water percentage at 80% and above.

    This is a good example with Carbomer and Triethanolamine.

    Spray Hair Gel:
    https://www.lubrizol.com/PersonalCare/S-G0010-Spray-Hair-Gel.pdf

     

  • Bobzchemist

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 11:11 am
  • tonyh

    Member
    September 21, 2014 at 11:33 am

    Croda - REJUVASOFT - Your Instant Conditioner

    The REJUVASOFT conditioning system is a major innovation in the conditioning market. It delivers combing and detangling benefits plus the attributes that consumers perceive as moisturization, all in a simple, easy-to-use pastille. REJUVASOFT delivers that “moisturized” feeling to hair, while softening each fiber, leaving hair beautiful and manageable. In salon evaluations consumers are not able to discern the difference between the REJUVASOFT plus water and a leading brand conditioner. Making this high performance conditioner has never been easier – simply add heat and water.

    Speciality blend:
    INCI - Quaternium-91 (and) Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Myristyl Myristate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

    Formula:

    Ingredients                %
    Deionized Water      92.70
    REJUVASOFT          6.00
    Preservative              0.80
    Fragrance                 0.50

    http://www.croda.com/print.aspx?d=content&s=157&r=401&p=2805&print=1

  • nasrins

    Member
    September 22, 2014 at 6:17 am

    thank u to every body….

Log in to reply.