Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 20, 2022 at 3:03 pm in reply to: Can skin become dependent on moisturizer?

    “Sensitive skin” is a pseudo-medical term that is still looking for a definitive definition.  As the authors say here…(bolded text for emphasis)

    However, as limitations, we would consider the
    fact, t
    hat sensitive skin is defined mostly on the patients’
    complaints and cannot be precisely confirmed by any
    objective measurements.
    Furthermore, the definition is
    rather general and, in fact, may cover different conditions
    under the umbrella term of sensitive skin. Future studies
    are needed to establish the specificity and sensitivity of
    this definition.
    ” 

    Basically, it is a term that many consumers use to describe all sorts of different conditions. These conditions don’t all have one solution. The products are formulated without things because that is what people who claim to have sensitive skin believe.

    For example, people are told frequently that fragrance causes irritation. It isn’t true that all fragrances are bad for some people. Because fragrances don’t all contain the same chemicals.  But marketers know consumers think this so they’ll call it out in marketing so people who believe they have “sensitive skin” will buy their product over one of their fragrance-containing competitors.

    Similarly, not everyone with sensitive skin will react the same to every surfactant. So-called “gentle” surfactants like Glucosides were voted the allergen of the year in 2017. Surfactants that are less harsh to some people are more harsh to other people.

    The bottom line is that selling products that are for “sensitive skin” is a marketing ploy. They aren’t actually helping people in the way they are implying.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 16, 2022 at 8:31 pm in reply to: Keratine - how do you produce it?

    @Zahra  - if you want help, list all the ingredients you are using, the percentages you are using, the manufacturing procedure you are following, and the problem you are having. 

    Without that information there is not much helpful advice people can give.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 16, 2022 at 5:51 pm in reply to: Can skin become dependent on moisturizer?

    It seems 100 years ago everyone had great skin and used nothing”

    The reason beauty products were invented was because people had skin problems they wanted fixed. It’s much more likely that everyone had terrible skin and the only ones they took pictures of were people with good skin.

    The phrase “sensitive skin” is a useful marketing invention that convinces otherwise normal people that they need a special, more expensive product than just the regular moisturizer that everyone else uses. Everyone wants to feel special and telling them they have skin that is different than other people’s is a good way to do that. Whether skin is sensitive of not is more psychological than physically measurable. 

    No, I don’t believe there is any evidence that skin becomes dependent on moisturizer. Skin doesn’t really care whether it is moisturized or not. It simply comes to an equilibrium with the outside environment. It’s a person’s mind that decides that they don’t like how skin feels and are compelled to put lotion on it. I would liken it to biting your nails rather than being addicted to cigarettes.  

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 16, 2022 at 12:15 pm in reply to: Help me with this “natural” body scrub

    You (or your client) may just have to face the fact that cosmetics are not natural & if you restrict your formulating to inferior ingredients, you get inferior performing products. You may already be as good as you can get.

    Also how is cetyl alcohol & sodium cocoyl isethionate natural?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 15, 2022 at 6:46 pm in reply to: How to store Carbomer

    We always stored it in a one gallon glass jar.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 14, 2022 at 12:56 pm in reply to: Keratine - how do you produce it?

    @Zahra - You should read this Types of cosmetic ingredients

    Keratin is what I would call a “claims” ingredient. The strategy companies do is make a standard straightener, add a small amount of keratin and then call it a keratin hair straightener. But the keratin doesn’t really have much effect.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 13, 2022 at 2:02 pm in reply to: Euxyl PE 9010 and it’s “smell”

    Yes, some consumers report irritation from phenoxyethanol.

    Is there any other better solutions for mold control than potassium sorbate...” 

    Yes, Methylparaben is better and doesn’t cause irritation.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 13, 2022 at 1:56 pm in reply to: Is this page related to this website?

    No.  Here’s the one related to our website.
    https://www.facebook.com/Cosmetic-Chemists-Corner-288305618117

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 10, 2022 at 7:42 pm in reply to: What are the resources you would need to begin getting US FDA approval for sunscreen?
  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 10, 2022 at 3:42 pm in reply to: Face Cream gives everyone tingling sensation…What’s wrong?

    It could also be the Benzyl Alcohol in the Geogard causing the reaction.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 10, 2022 at 3:40 pm in reply to: Product contamination by which of these microorganisms can increase the pH of product?

    I think your question doesn’t have enough information to give an answer beyond…it depends. The ingredients that are in your formula matter.

    The pH of your system is dependent on all the ingredients in there. If bacteria start breaking down a compound that is responsible for shifting the pH lower, then the pH of your system will likely increase. But if the bacteria break down something that increases the pH, then the system pH will decrease.

    So it depends. What are they eating and how does that ingredient affect the system pH?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 10, 2022 at 3:04 pm in reply to: What are the best ingredients for aging skin

    I agree with @jemolian.  All of these are both ineffective at some things and effective at others. You’ll need to be more specific.

    I don’t think any of these ingredients are particularly effective at anti-aging when formulated into products, but they get good press so they are quite effective in getting people to buy products.

    Of those Niacinamide probably has the best evidence for having some noticeable effect. 

    But really, these are just story ingredients which help convince consumers to spend hundreds of dollars on products that don’t do much more than a standard moisturizer.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 9, 2022 at 7:09 pm in reply to: Protecting your proprietary formula?

    Sure, if it will make you feel better. Better yet have them sign some contract that gives you exclusive rights to the formula so they can’t use it with another client.

    However, an NDA or contract is really only worth anything if you’re willing to spend the legal fees it would cost to pursue a claim against the party that you think wronged you. And this might be hard to prove.  For example they could make some minor formula change (e.g. swap out preservative systems) and call it a different formula. It would be hard to prove that the formula was still the same as yours, especially without patent protection.

    But like I said, even if someone had your same formula it is your marketing that will matter in terms of success, not the formula.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 9, 2022 at 5:17 pm in reply to: Is it advised to use 4-5% NACL in facewash as is used in this formula from Innospec?

    Does 3-5% NACL in cleansing product has any benefit or functionality other than viscosity adjustment? 

    I don’t know - but probably nothing that would be consumer perceptible in terms of cleaning.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 9, 2022 at 1:52 pm in reply to: Is it advised to use 4-5% NACL in facewash as is used in this formula from Innospec?

    The ocean has about 3.5% salt so it’s not much worse than that

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 9, 2022 at 1:50 pm in reply to: A way to stabilize the essential oil when burning candles

    What exactly do you mean when you say “stabilize”?  What happens to the candle that lets you know the essential oil isn’t stabilized?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 9, 2022 at 12:59 pm in reply to: Preservative for mineral sunscreen

    @samiditsamir_roubahi - he means you are posting a question that is different from the one originally posted by @Mondonna . If you want responses to your question you need to start a new discussion. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 8, 2022 at 8:12 pm in reply to: Protecting your proprietary formula?

    Maybe an NDA or a contract, but the real answer is…you can’t. With an ingredient list & a sample of the product a good cosmetic chemist can emulate pretty much anything on the market.

    But on the plus side, the formula rarely makes much difference in terms of having a successful product. Certainly there are some minimal hurdles you have to meet or exceed but successful beauty brands depend on great marketing and good formulas. There are plenty of great formula failures on the market and also lots of highly successful poor formula products. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 8, 2022 at 3:30 am in reply to: Favorite volumizing/thickening polymers - hair

    My favourite polymers for hair styling products are PVP and VP/VA copolymer”  I’m with you @natzam44

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 4, 2022 at 6:22 pm in reply to: Another non-preserved product…

    If they don’t test it, they can’t fail! /S

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 4, 2022 at 6:15 pm in reply to: Storage conditions

    @Karo_lina - yea 20% or lower would be around what I was referring to.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 3, 2022 at 1:27 pm in reply to: Storage conditions

    Temperature is crucial, but if your containers are closed, humidity doesn’t matter as much. Those numbers sound appropriate to me.  Lower humidity could result in a material drying out but that is only if it is not in a sealed container. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 3, 2022 at 1:24 pm in reply to: Is applying conditioner before shampoo is better than after shampoo as said here?

    I used to work on a product called VO5 Hot Oil Treatment. It was really just a conditioner (main functional ingredient Cocotrimonium Chloride and a cationic polymer called PEI).

    The idea was that you put it on the hair first, leave it for a couple minutes, rinse and apply shampoo. So, this product was essentially “applying conditioner before shampoo”.

    If you used the Hot Oil then shampooed and didn’t use a conditioner after shampooing, hair was left in better shape than if you just shampooed. But if you shampooed then used conditioner, there really wasn’t much difference.

    Personally, I doubt conditioning before shampooing results in any real noticeable conditioning effects.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 2, 2022 at 11:27 pm in reply to: Climb chalk

    I’m unfamiliar with this type of product. Do you have a complete list of ingredients?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    March 1, 2022 at 10:24 pm in reply to: Increase Viscosity of Hair Gel

    I think the castor oil may reduce viscosity too.

    But have you tried a standard carbomer (e.g Carbopol 940) and then neutralize it with something like TEA?

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