Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Face Cream gives everyone tingling sensation…What’s wrong?

  • Face Cream gives everyone tingling sensation…What’s wrong?

    Posted by Eugene on March 10, 2022 at 9:28 am

    Hello dear chemists! So, problem is that my new cream formula gives everyone tingling sensation on skin for less then a minute. No rash or redness. Can you please tell me which component can cause this? 

    Formula:
    Aqua             36.7%
    Hydrosol       28%

    Argan oil       10%
    Olive oil         6%
    Ritamulse      6%

    Allantoin       3%
    Cucumber extract   3%
    Stearin acid   2%

    Glycerine       2.5%

    Xanthan Gum 0.5%
    HMHA            0.1%
    LMHA             0.1%
    Aloe extract 200x   0.1%
    Geogard ECT  1%
    Orange EO      1%

    Thanks a lot!

    Abdullah replied 1 year, 10 months ago 18 Members · 33 Replies
  • 33 Replies
  • Formulator

    Member
    March 10, 2022 at 11:19 am

    My first guess would be 3% allantoin, it’s probably present as undissolved crystals in your cream. Try reducing it to 0.3%.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    March 10, 2022 at 11:39 am

    What is the pH? 
    This preservative may not be very effective at pH above 5 and with hydrosol. It wasn’t for me.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    March 10, 2022 at 11:40 am

    Maybe it is 1% essential oil. Try 0.2% and see how it feels.

    Agree with @Formulator

  • evchem2

    Member
    March 10, 2022 at 2:14 pm

    Seconding the 1% Orange EO- I’d go even further and say knock it out completely first and see if you still feel tingling.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    March 10, 2022 at 3:42 pm

    It could also be the Benzyl Alcohol in the Geogard causing the reaction.

  • Mondonna

    Member
    March 10, 2022 at 11:52 pm

    What is the final PH of your product? 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    March 11, 2022 at 6:17 am

    Allantoin is 6X too high…but doubt it would cause the tingling…just be abrasive since that much won’t dissolve. 

  • Pattsi

    Member
    March 11, 2022 at 7:59 am
    evchem2 said:

    Seconding the 1% Orange EO- I’d go even further and say knock it out completely first and see if you still feel tingling.

    Thirding the 1% Orange EO. :) 

  • abierose

    Member
    March 11, 2022 at 6:29 pm

    Could be a combination of all the above…the Allantoin is way too high and is most likely very abrasive to the skin, making it more sensitive to the high EO% as well as the benzyl alcohol…????‍♀️

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 11, 2022 at 8:00 pm
    At that range of Allantoin, you are even above and beyond what is used for OTC under the Skin Protectant OTC Monograph. (That is it would be an OTC DRUG). https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2003/06/04/03-13751/skin-protectant-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use-final-monograph
    As anyone can attest, Allantoin at the allowable Cosmetic levels (0.5% or less) can still be difficult to solubilize without the proper mixing equipment. To incorporate it at the OTC level usually requires solvents which would make your product far less “natural.” Of course, “natural” has much less emphasis in Pharma/OTC.
    More is not always better as in this case.
  • Urbanxt

    Member
    March 15, 2022 at 1:54 am

    Unanimous with Allantoin being the issue. Allantoin must be entered into the formula at a recommended percentage of the water content and not the formula content. It dissolves in water, not oil. 

  • emma1985

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 4:40 pm

    That is so much Allantoin. I use 0.3% in most cases.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 6:07 pm

    Urbanxt said:

    Unanimous with Allantoin being the issue. Allantoin must be entered into the formula at a recommended percentage of the water content and not the formula content. It dissolves in water, not oil. 

    It should be used as a final percentage of the FULL Formula, not just the aqueous phase. The goal is to have an effective, safe, and appropriate level in the final retail product.

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 8:01 pm

    Recently I’ve jumped from 0.5% to 1% Allantoin in my lotions, and have to say that I noticed a very positive change. Of coarse I can’t prove it scientifically, but me and my clients have noticed a very strong soothing effect. I’ve tested it in an aftersun lotion, and it very quickly removed the redness. Also I am heating the water phase to 85 degrees and I don’t have any issues with the solubilizing, respectively I haven’t noticed recristalization. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 8:28 pm

    @ggpetrov - you could prove it scientifically.  Just make a batch with the extra Allantoin and a batch without the extra. Then test it (on a blinded basis) to see if you can tell a difference.  It would work best if you had 3 samples. 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type.  Then see if you can pick out the odd sample.

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 8:54 pm

    Perry said:

    @ggpetrov - you could prove it scientifically.  Just make a batch with the extra Allantoin and a batch without the extra. Then test it (on a blinded basis) to see if you can tell a difference.  It would work best if you had 3 samples. 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type.  Then see if you can pick out the odd sample.

    Perry I already did it! My statement isn’t just a claim, but it comes from my experience. Anyway, it doesn’t counts as the clinical researches do, but it’s valuable for me and my clients. Also I have a great impression from the Calendula extract as well as the a-Bisabolol, but it’s based only on my oun experiments.

  • emma1985

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 8:58 pm

    ggpetrov said:

    Perry said:

    @ggpetrov - you could prove it scientifically.  Just make a batch with the extra Allantoin and a batch without the extra. Then test it (on a blinded basis) to see if you can tell a difference.  It would work best if you had 3 samples. 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type.  Then see if you can pick out the odd sample.

    Perry I already did it! My statement isn’t just a claim, but it comes from my experience. Anyway, it doesn’t counts as the clinical researches do, but it’s valuable for me and my clients. Also I have a great impression from the Calendula extract as well as the a-Bisabolol, but it’s based only on my oun experiments.

    Thanks for sharing this. I’m pretty fond of Calendula Extract and Bisabolol myself.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 5:23 pm

    @ggpetrov, Would you please show me how to soluble 1% allantoin into water?
    I  have difficulty to soluble 0.5% allantoin into water. I have to warm up the water little bit to soluble 0.5% allantoin. But, later solid allantoin appeared when the temperature going down.
    Thanks in advance.

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 6:03 pm

    Dtdang said:

    @ggpetrov, Would you please show me how to soluble 1% allantoin into water?
    I  have difficulty to soluble 0.5% allantoin into water. I have to warm up the water little bit to soluble 0.5% allantoin. But, later solid allantoin appeared when the temperature going down.
    Thanks in advance.

    Heat the water to 85 - 90 degrees, so it will completely dissolved. For preventing recrystalization you should cool down the emulsion slowly. If you cool the emulsion fast, a crystals may appear.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 9:02 pm

    I have seen people try to create a supersaturated solution such as this. They generally fail stability due to crystallization.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 11:14 pm

    @ggpetrov! Thank you so much!
    How do you cool down the emulsion slowly? 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    March 25, 2022 at 3:05 am

    @Dtdang

    The maximum amount of Allantoin you will be able to dissolve in water and not have it recrystallize is 0.5%.  The key is to not heat your water phase above 55C.  Generally, if you heat it up to 50C with 0.5% Allantoin, it will not recrystallize upon cooling.

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    March 25, 2022 at 8:25 am

    Dtdang said:

    @ggpetrov! Thank you so much!
    How do you cool down the emulsion slowly? 

    I don’t have any problems to dissolve 1% Allantoin, but I heat the water phase to 85-90 degrees. After the homogenization, I stir the emulsion with a paddle mixer and I take care to control the temperature to not drop down too fast. For example if the room when you make the emulsions is too cold, or some people force the cool down by cooling the beaker with cold water.

  • Eugene

    Member
    July 31, 2022 at 6:03 pm

    Abdullah said:

    What is the pH? 
    This preservative may not be very effective at pH above 5 and with hydrosol. It wasn’t for me.

    PH is 5.5. I’ve tested the emulsion after 1 year being in hot weather and there was no bacterial growth…

    Abdullah said:

    Maybe it is 1% essential oil. Try 0.2% and see how it feels.

    Agree with @Formulator

    evchem2 said:

    Seconding the 1% Orange EO- I’d go even further and say knock it out completely first and see if you still feel tingling.

    I will try thank you…I have same % in other emulsion with no tingling sensations so I thought it could not be EO…

  • Eugene

    Member
    July 31, 2022 at 6:16 pm

    My first guess would be 3% allantoin, it’s probably present as undissolved crystals in your cream. Try reducing it to 0.3%.

    It is fully dissolved and I can’t feel any crystals at all???? I thought that allantoin was soothing ingredient, so why it should cause tingling?

    Perry said:

    It could also be the Benzyl Alcohol in the Geogard causing the reaction.

    It was the first thing I thought about, so I’ve changed preservative to Geogard Ultra, but tingling was the same…

    Mondonna said:

    What is the final PH of your product? 

    Below 5.5

    Allantoin is 6X too high…but doubt it would cause the tingling…just be abrasive since that much won’t dissolve. 

    There are really no crystals, emulsion is very smooth and pleasant…
    I will try to reduce both allantoin and EO, I have already changed preservative to Geogard Ultra. 

    My apologies for being late, I hade problems with signing in. Thank you all guys for such an interesting discussion!

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