OldPerry
Forum Replies Created
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It would be interesting to see a study where someone compared the damage to hair over a pH range from 1 - 14
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I did a little searching and couldn’t find any indication that a pH of 6 was more damaging than a pH of 3. I think the concern of hair damage is when you get up to high alkaline pHs.
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The more acidic (lower pH) your conditioner, the less adsorption happens due to isoelectric effects. Instead, the hydrophobic effect is more important. As you increase pH, you increase bonding sites on the hair fiber thus increasing the amount of cationic that will stay on the hair.
So, the answer is it depends on what conditioning agents you are using. If you are relying on cationic surfactants, a higher pH is better. If you are using longer chain conditioning agents (say Stearyl vs Cetyl) you’ll get more adsorption as a lower pH.
You can read all about how things stick to hair in this article.
https://www.evernote.com/shard/s1/sh/ed523436-1531-466d-9153-d2bac9293f9f/e8f6f08010f30e21b56ef091ef4536de -
I guess it depends on what the Menthol is doing in the formula. If it’s flavoring 1% would be a good place to start.
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Your formula looks reasonable. You probably don’t need 2% SHS ester though. I’d start with 1%
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If you claim “no glycerin” then the amount of glycerin you can use is 0%. Otherwise you would be making a false claim and that is not allowed in advertising.
You can make a natural claim if you like no matter what you use. It has no definition. Although you’ll want to stay away from “all natural” or 100% natural as the FTC has recently cracked down on those claims.
There are lots of brands out there that pretend to be natural while still using synthetic ingredients. In fact, I can’t think of a single brand that is actually all natural. Cosmetics do not exist in nature. To make them you have to process them.
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What function / benefit are trying to get by adding colloidal oatmeal?
Aveeno adds it as a claims ingredient only. The moisturizing in that product comes from Petrolatum, Mineral Oil and Glycerin.
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He’s actually on here @SoapyGuy
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The SCC will be hosting a color cosmetics course sometime next year. I’m not sure when that date will be however. It will likely be in New York. I’ll update this when I know. http://scconline.org
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Yes, if you put the formula in terms of weight % rather than volume an answer might be more readily obvious.
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Yes, what @DAS said. You do not have to list fragrance ingredients in any order if they are less than 1% of the concentration of the whole formula.
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Since it’s unlikely a consumer would be able to tell whether the product has panthenol in it or not, I’d recommend 0.1%. But conduct the test yourself. Make a batch with Panthenol (say 1%) and one without Panthenol.
Conduct a blinded test and see if you notice any difference.
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It’s probably due to processing. Panthenol (even at the high level you have) shouldn’t cause instability
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Thanks for the update!!
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1. List the performance and aesthetic characteristics of the product.
2. Figure out which ingredients are responsible for those characteristics
3. Make a guess as to what the ingredient levels are.
4. Make a batch and see how it compares to the product you’re trying to copy.
5. Adjust formula, make a new batch, and test it again.
6. Repeat until satisfied. -
@Chemist5000 - Thanks! I’m hoping to have a positive impact in the coming year.
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This might be a thing only certain sized companies can do but we used to send unfragranced base product to the fragrance house, tell them what scent we wanted and how much we were willing to pay. They would customize a fragrance for the product. 1% was the maximum we’d put in something like a shampoo, body wash. Lower levels were used in skin creams
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I actually don’t find the pricing to be the main problem. If they can get people to pay >$500 for skin care, more power to them.
What I find most troubling is that we have Nobel Prize winning chemists propagating junk science. I’m sure these are fine skin lotions but it’s highly unlikely they do anything more than your standard Olay skin moisturizer.
Somehow I don’t mind it so much coming from marketers, but our brightest scientists? sigh.
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Read our free report. http://startacosmeticline.com
What type of advice are you looking for?
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I found the Indie Business Network helpful. https://indiebusinessnetwork.com/insurance/
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Ouch, those were some harsh reviews.
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2% Panthenol is too much. It will just get washed down the drain anyway since it’s water soluble.
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Just to add clarification, Hydroquinone is not banned in the US. It is a monograph ingredient however so you have to follow the FDA monograph guidelines.
It’s also not technically banned in the EU. It’s just that it is a drug product that requires a prescription.
As @Bill_Toge said, we’d need to know how your current product is unstable.
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I think @DAS has made a great point that even if you didn’t use a solubilizer, it’s still only a tiny amount of fragrance that you’re using and being exposed to. You’d have to do the math.
In truth, there are a lot of unanswered questions in cosmetic science and in toxicology. Much of the advice you hear is based on empirical data & experience. It hasn’t always been scientifically “proven”. People often just do things because they’ve worked in the past.
Unfortunately, this will not help resolve your debate.