Perry44
Forum Replies Created
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Oxidation is the answer. Hydrocarbons in Vaseline chemically change by reacting with air, UV light, introduced contaminants. Heating can also speed up oxidation. To slow it down, keeping it stored in a cool dark place might help.
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If you haven’t passed stability, it might be premature to go to HRIPT. Also, any formula changes you make should require a repeat of the micro testing too. You’ve got to have a stable product first.
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There is no requirement to do that as far as I know.
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Some consumers might care but the vast majority don’t. All you have to do is look at the sales of products that use traditional preservatives. The brands you mentioned are all best sellers. Clearly consumers that buy these products don’t care.
It’s not surprising to me that @mikethair has a different perspective because his consumer group is filtered & they are looking for more natural products. Most consumers aren’t. The natural/clean market makes up about 20% at most of sales. This means 80% of product sales is not clean/natural.
As a new brand I don’t think your preservative matters in terms of marketing. What matters is your brand story, your fragrance, your packaging & whether the product meets your claims. Wasting marketing attention by pointing out what preservative you do or do not use seems like a waste of effort to me. While some people may avoid buying your product because it has some ingredient in it they find objectionable, no one is going to buy your product because of what preservative you use. You need a better marketing story than that.
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It might be possible but it also depends on what ingredients are in the formula.
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The EO is the problem.
You have to understand how the molecules arrange themselves in the solution. The reason you are seeing haziness is because the particles that are dispersed throughout the system are larger than 100 nm.
So, you most likely don’t have enough surfactant (soap or polysorbate) to surround the oil particles to a tiny enough size to be transparent or you haven’t used a high enough mixing force to create tiny particles.
Polar molecules and non-polar molecules are not generally compatible. If you don’t have enough surfactant, you’ll get haze.
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You could also try Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose.
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Sunscreens are designed to stay on your skin and resist easy wash-off. That way you don’t immediately sweat them off and they continue to give you protection. If they were easier to remove, they wouldn’t work well as sunscreens.
The ingredients you described in sunscreen are not responsible for your breakouts. Things like silicones and glycols are not known to cause breakouts in people. But without more specific ingredient information, it is difficult to give you any good advice. Just keep trying to find one that works for you.
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I think they are just setting themselves up for a lawsuit.
“100% natural ingredients”? In what world is Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol 100% natural? There is no plant or animal that produces those ingredients. Maybe “naturally derived” you could argue, but those aren’t natural.
Their labels also don’t conform to legal standards. The proper labeling of the first ingredient should WATER. Not AVENE WATER or AVENE THERMAL SPRING WATER. Just WATER.
So, if they can’t be bothered to properly label their products, I suspect they have preservatives in their formulas, they just decided not to put it on the label.
As far as replicating the product goes, sure that’s simple enough. But product performance is only a tiny piece of the puzzle when it comes to the success of a beauty product brand. No product on the market can perform significantly better than any other product (at least from a consumer standpoint). It is futile to try to compete in terms of performance.
Why is it effective? They have Glycerin, Shea Butter and emollients. That’s pretty much all the functional ingredients you need in a moisturizing cream.
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Is this the bill you are talking about?
https://toxicfreefuture.org/washington-state/campaign-washington-ban-toxic-cosmetics/
Honestly, I don’t see how they are going to be able to police it.
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Hello Susan - it must not work because I didn’t receive a message from you. Best is to send a message through the forum or the most direct way is to email me perry@chemistscorner.com
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Zinc oxide & titanium oxide (as a blend) can be the basis for sunscreen actives. But as @PhilGeis says, formulating them should focus on efficacy, not on minimalism. These are drugs in the US and it’s important to create functional products that have been tested for efficacy.
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It never really impacted my formulation of shampoos or body washes. The level of surfactant you use is a balance between performance and cost. CMC doesn’t have much to do with it. It’s interesting academically, but not practically
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Hello Jamie - no, the course does not feature step-by-step making of products like the video you posted. The course is more about the science of cosmetics, the things you do as a cosmetic chemist in industry, and descriptions and breakdowns of various formulas. It was created with industry cosmetic chemists in mind. There are a couple videos showing step-by-step how a formula is made, but that isn’t the focus of the course.
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It’s not usually done mostly because it leads to air getting trapped & it makes it harder to mix.
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I use them all but ULProspector is first mostly because they have been around the longest & have a good number of suppliers listed. Specialchem has been around a long time too but they always seem less organized. The search function on special hem is just not very good. Knowde has the best search function. But they don’t seem to have the extensive catalog of ULProspector.
Honestly, I use them all until I find what I need.
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The term “hydration” is a marketing term with multiple meanings. What do you specifically mean when you say provide hydration? Hydrolyzed proteins can work as humectants and attract water to the surface of hair. But Glycerin can do that much more efficiently and for a lower cost. So for that effect, companies use a high level of glycerin and a tiny drop of protein so they can make the claim. Again, the protein isn’t doing much.
A combination of a silicone and a cationic surfactant like BTMS should work best at taming frizz. You could also try a lower molecular weight ingredient like Cetrimonium Chloride.
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There is so much marketing stories in hair care that it’s hard to keep up. Hair masks are nothing more than thickened conditioners. They don’t actually do anything different. Protein has very little impact on hair and the notion of “protein overload” is just made up too. There is no scientific evidence that it is even a thing. I’m sure there is lots of anecdotal evidence but you can’t demonstrate it in the lab.
In your formula, you’ve got Dimethicone and Polyquaternium 7. With those two ingredients the protein will have no noticeable impact on hair.In truth, in the industry we add protein to hair care products because consumers believe that it does something and marketers like to talk about it. But if you try to demonstrate there is an effect, it’s just not there. At least, for rinse off products. Leave-in products can get a film formed but again, if you have dimethicone in there the protein film is irrelevant.
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Yes if you want any helpful answers you’ll need to list your ingredients
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I don’t think this problem of misinformation and fearmongering will go away until consumers get smarter. People have to stop taking advertising seriously. If they assume that everyone in the industry is out to trick them, they will be better off financially.
Industry is in no position to do “consumer education.” The cosmetic industry is based on selling “hope in a bottle” and that is what consumers want to buy. Nobody really wins when consumers are better educated. Instead, the real winning comes when brands are able to miseducate consumers. Drunk Elephant convinced people they need to avoid 6 types of ingredients and in less than 10 years they built an $845 million company!
If consumers were educated and interested in buying products that worked at reasonable prices, they would be buying Suave or Equate or all the other store brands that work just as well as the super expensive products at a fraction of the price. But that is not what consumers want & that isn’t what industry wants either.
An honest, science-based approach to communication by brands might work for some niche brand, but you’re never going to grow a billion dollar brand telling people the truth.
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The choice of an “alternative” preservative is similar to the choice of which worldwide regulations you follow. The EU is generally more strict that the US. So, big companies who sell products in both the US and the EU will just follow the EU regulations because they figure it will cover both the US and EU. Whereas if they just followed the US regs, they might run afoul of the EU regs.
So, if you chose an alternative preservative, the vast number of people who don’t care will still buy your product. But the small number of people who do care will also buy your product. Ergo, if you want to appeal to the most number of consumers, then picking an alternative preservative makes some sense. That way you alienate no one.
However, the problem is that the alternative preservatives actually cause problems because they don’t work particularly well. And no one wants to buy a microbial contaminated product!
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Sure, the fragrance can cause separation. Also, if you have high electrolyte levels that can break the carbomer structure and cause separation.
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There is no need to delete the post. Good luck on your project!
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Rosemary oil?
Shampoos are meant to clean hair. Putting oil on your hair is exactly the opposite of cleaning hair. -
Decyl glucoside was given the dubious award of “Allergen of the Year” in 2017. It is certainly not an allergy free ingredient!
Just one other important point - Decyl Glucoside is not “natural”. There are no plants or animals that naturally produce decyl glucoside. It is a synthetic molecule dreamed up by clever, human chemists. Some natural standards may recognize it as “natural” and indeed it may be derived from natural ingredients, but it, just like pretty much all cosmetics, is not “all natural”. It’s a synthetic chemical creation.