[Paprik]

Phase A :

• Water
• Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
• Glyceryl oleate

Phase B :

• Glyceryl Stearate SE
• Cetyl Alcohol 

Phase C

• Preservative

Phase D

• pH adjuster to 4.8 - 5.3

Make this and see how it feels and performs. If it’s to your likings, add the marketing ingredients after. They won’t effect stability or performance much.

[Paprik]

Sarcosinates are usually mild and have a nice stable foam. Make sure your final pH is >5. 

Panthenol, Allantoin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol should be used at marketing % = 0.1 or 0.01% - will go down the drain. [Unless you show me some in-vivo study that it has benefits in wash off products] 

Keep the CCT input at minimum so you do not kill the foam and cleansing properties. 

I do not see any preservative? 

Did you get this of some brand or it is your list of ingredient? What is the purpose of Sodium Hydroxide in there?

You could use some superfatting agent to give the hydrates/moisturized feel after wash. I assume this is for (your) dry, sensitive skin? 

[Paprik]

@Joseph141, no one is annoyed or being rude, same about you. Chill  

Let us know what ingredients you have on hand and we can put something together. 
If you are getting irritation, I would stay away from Sulfates - Even tho SLES is ethoxylated, I would simply choose some milder surfactant (maybe personal preference). 

[Paprik]

Are the UV filters solid? If so, I don’t think you have enough lipid. 
Also do not understand much 11% Decyl glucoside. 

[Paprik]

All below are COSMOS/ECO CERT

Oramix CG110 (Seppic) INCI:Caprylyl/CaprylGlucoside

Lamesoft OD (BASF) INCI: Coco-Caprylate,Lauryl Glucoside,Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate,Polyglyceryl-3Diisostearate

Natisol (Sinerga)INCI: Cocoyl Proline

Natpure Sol (Sensient) INCI: Glycerin, Sucrose Laurate, Sucrose Dilaurate, Sucrose Trilaurate, Sorbitol

Natragem S140NP (Croda) INCI: Polyglyceryl-4laurate/sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6caprylate/caprate, Aqua

Symbiosolv Clear Plus (Evonik) INCI: Caprylyl/capryl glucoside,Aqua, Sodium cocoyl glutatmate,Glyceryl caprylate, Citric acid,Polyglyceryl-6 oleate, Sodiumsurfactin

Tegosolve 90 (Evonik) INCI:Polyglyceryl-6caprylate/polyglyceryl-4 caprate

Polysugamulse D9 (ColonialChemicals) INCI:Sorbitan OleateDecylglucoside Crosspolymer

Velsan Flex (Clariant) INCI:Capryloyl / CaproylAnhydroMethyl Glucamide

[Paprik]

Thank you guys, this is actually I was wanting to ask too. 
I almost could not believe my eyes first

I actually brought my conditioner for my mom when I was visiting her back in Czech and she is using the same one mentioned here. And she “complained” about my one not spreading that well either! So I will try to adjust the formula a bit to the suggestions from here Cheers! 

[Paprik]

@Abdullah personally I did not have issues with it either. However I did not use it a lot. But from IPCS everyone who ever had a problem with surfactant system and had there Lamesoft, it was the culprit. 

[Paprik]

My bet is Lamesoft PO65. Have you tried it without it? 

It is great in bar products, but in liquid surfactant systems it causes a loooot of headaches to people. 

[Paprik]

I guess you should bother with sharing the formula.
This is the only thing we can see and check - unfortunately we do not see how you heat, mix and cool the product. 

It could be some of the ingredients causing some microbial growth? Or incompatibility? Hard to tell without the formula.  

[Paprik]

I am not expert in W/O emulsions, but I disagree with gelling your water can improve stability. 
You should be trying to suspend the water in the oil continuous phase, therefore you need to gel you oil phase. So it stops the water droplets from “swimming”. 

I used to use Candelila wax in my lip balm at 2% (I believe), but it gave tooo much shine, … how does your product apply? Doesn’t it leave you very shiny? [Maybe the Arrow root helps with that]

PS. I don’t see any antioxidant for your butters and oils. 

[Paprik]

You would need to share your whole formula mate. 

I already cringe when I see coco glucoside as a “primary” surfactant. I personally do not like it much. 

By the “gelling” issue, you mean the whole product gels or just at the pump? Coco glucoside does this - it kind of dries and can block the pump where contact with air. 

Please share you full formula and method and we will be able to help you  

[Paprik]

Correct .. Organic “stamp” has some specific requirements. 

But as @Graillotion said, if you do not put the “ingredient” in, you can “claim” it.
Such as Paraben free, Sulfates free, EO free … [However I believe in EU some claims are banned as it may suggest that the ingredient is bad - such as parabens].

[Paprik]

@MarkBroussard Hehe .. I only told her to check it out! That’s basically putting PJ on the face. Nothing for me tho  

[Paprik]

@Ghita37, check out “Slugging”  

[Paprik]

There are few “grades” of BTMS. 25 ; 50 ; 75%. You can choose - I am using 50% and it works just fine  

[Paprik]

Love to see everyone’s answers  

I actually make everything myself (except deo and toothpaste … and sunscreen yet, but looking into it now). 

I use my own Vitamin C, other serums (depending on my skin mood and needs - peptides, Allantoin, CoQ10, lactic acid… ),  facial masks/peels (acid or just hydration), eye serum with “eye” peptides (testing new ones now), moisturiser  … also shampoo, body wash, face wash, conditioner, body scrub, lip balm … 
Plus testing gel to cream cleanser and face oil. 

As I love to play with new ingredients I have sometimes a lot of product to use, so I usually have it in the bathroom and we just use it  

[Paprik]

Thanks @PhilGeis  

[Paprik]

So you have only water, HA and Panthenol in your formula? 
No preservative? 
What is the final pH?

I would suggest add panthenol into the water first and then add HA.
You can even slurry it in some humectant - propanediol works for me so the HA hydrates much faster. 

They should be compatible with each other. 
[But we don’t know brand names, MW of HA, if panthenol is powder or liquid … ] 

[Paprik]

Unfortunately the first pic is hard to read, but if you zoom in you should be able to read it. 
Here’s the text - 
o superior moisturization

o imparts an inviting after-feel, slip

o excellent lubricity, spreadability,
emolliency

o broad formulation compatibility,
long shelf life

o good auxiliary thickening, suspending
power, viscosity enhancement

o water-soluble
o cold-processable

Recommended usage - 5.0–25.0%.

It looks like they use it only in shampoos - and at 0.5%. 

Hope this helps  

[Paprik]

[Paprik]

[Paprik]

Looking at the formula,
* I would probably go a bit higher with XG (you are stabilising big particles).
* I would not use Apricot shell powder on face, unless it is actually for a face product [face grade] (apricot shell powder/flour has usually bit particles with sharp edges) and can be too harsh on the skin. 
* As there’s AHA, you need to make sure the pH is low enough for the acid to be bioavailable. Stearic acid then loses its properties as anionic emulsifier, so no point having it there and you might need to increase non-ionic emulsifier input as the lower pH could break the viscosity. 
* What is the Sodium Bicarbonate there for? It will only neutralise the acid. 

[Paprik]

I found Distearyldimonium Chloride in the Thai Shop  

https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/en/non-silicone-anti-static-hair-conditioning/9152-distearyldimonium-chloride.html

They do not have Steareth-20, but they do have others. I am not completely sure how they differ. 

Benzalkonium Chloride - I would just go with any other cationic agent? Not sure how is this one different tho! So my advise can be completely irrelevant  

[Paprik]

Happy new year Perry and everyone!
All the best! Lucky formulating, bug free products and huge sales! <3 

I feel the same, I always learn new things in here.  

[Paprik]

If I understand correctly you are asking why you didn’t get any viscosity with sclerotium gum? 

Check datasheet for Amigum. Recommended input is 0.25 - 2%. You are at the lowest recommended input = not much viscosity will be built. 
Check datasheets from other suppliers - From top of my head Sclerotium gum needs heat or/and high sheet (homogeniser). 

Hope this helps?