Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating critical face wash project

  • critical face wash project

    Posted by Robert on January 18, 2023 at 1:12 pm

    I have a good opportunity to improve my business in this cold market, Very simple product apparently but it seems difficult for me, I am doing Face wash liquid soap, the problem is the it is affected by cold weather and gelling is a problem because it has a pump, i am using peg-120 glucose deoleate around 2% and primary surfactant is coco glucoside, I have tried to add propylene glycol but has not worked, Also I tried to do with SLES as basic surfactant also gelling occured, can anybody suggest me a basic formula or surfactant. By the way transparency and thickness is a must for the customer. please help me guys

    Robert replied 1 year, 3 months ago 6 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • Paprik

    Member
    January 18, 2023 at 5:34 pm

    You would need to share your whole formula mate. 

    I already cringe when I see coco glucoside as a “primary” surfactant. I personally do not like it much. 

    By the “gelling” issue, you mean the whole product gels or just at the pump? Coco glucoside does this - it kind of dries and can block the pump where contact with air. 

    Please share you full formula and method and we will be able to help you :) 

  • zetein

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 12:31 am
    Do you mean the texture becomes gelatin-like when cold? You can try thicken with higher % surfactant, and lower molecular thickener (alkanolamides, amine oxides, betaine, propylene glycol laurate , etc), but less higher moleculars that crosslink micelles (peg-150 distearate, peg-120 glucose deoleate, peg-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate) and less salt.
    Also there some water-soluble emollients can help with the gelatin issue, but I forget which.
  • Robert

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 6:08 am

    Paprik said:

    You would need to share your whole formula mate. 

    I already cringe when I see coco glucoside as a “primary” surfactant. I personally do not like it much. 

    By the “gelling” issue, you mean the whole product gels or just at the pump? Coco glucoside does this - it kind of dries and can block the pump where contact with air. 

    Please share you full formula and method and we will be able to help you :) 

    the whole product gelling not just in the pump, also you can see gelling when you rub it on your skin,

    My formula as below:
    Coco glucoside 55% active     10%  I use it here to avoid SLES gelling 
    SLES 70% active                       2%
    Betain 45 active                      2%
    Cocamide DEA                         1%
    peg-120  Deoleate                  2%
    Glycerin                                   3%
    Lamesoft PO65                         1%
    And no salt Added because i need super clear liquid, very clear and thick liquid is the target formulation

  • Robert

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 6:18 am

    zetein said:

    Do you mean the texture becomes gelatin-like when cold? You can try thicken with higher % surfactant, and lower molecular thickener (alkanolamides, amine oxides, betaine, propylene glycol laurate , etc), but less higher moleculars that crosslink micelles (peg-150 distearate, peg-120 glucose deoleate, peg-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate) and less salt.
    Also there some water-soluble emollients can help with the gelatin issue, but I forget which.

    yes exactly gelatin like texture especially when you rub it with your hands, I need very clear thick liquid soap, If I discarded Peg-120 and betain and Glyceryl oleate and cocamide DEA, how could I maintain high viscosity? I have not added Salt because it can blur a little the clearness of liquid. Do you have suggestion for Surfactant system can give super clear liquid and thickness.

  • Paprik

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 6:33 am

    My bet is Lamesoft PO65. Have you tried it without it? 

    It is great in bar products, but in liquid surfactant systems it causes a loooot of headaches to people. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 8:04 am

    Use less Peg-120.

    @Paprik what was your problem with po65? 

    I have no problem with it. 

  • zetein

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 8:14 am

    @Robert I’m sorry I meant more surfactant and more lower molecular thickeners. Betaine and glyceryl oleate and cocamide DEA are good and you can try increasing them to remedy the viscosity after decreasing peg-120.

  • Robert

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 10:48 am

    Abdullah said:

    Use less Peg-120.

    @Paprik what was your problem with po65? 

    I have no problem with it. 

    i know peg-120 is the main problem but I thought there is alternative way to fix this, because no alternative to Peg-120 especially in super clear formulations, do you have any surfactant suggestion?

  • Robert

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 10:52 am

    zetein said:

    @Robert I’m sorry I meant more surfactant and more lower molecular thickeners. Betaine and glyceryl oleate and cocamide DEA are good and you can try increasing them to remedy the viscosity after decreasing peg-120.

    Do you think SLES will not freez or gelled if I try it without adding Salt too much? how about HPMC use? can it solve the problem or it will precipitate 

  • ketchito

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 11:37 am

    @Robert I agree with @Abdullah and @zetein. Find the right amount of PEG-120 that gibes viscosity but doesn’t gel. For instance, try with 1.5 or even 1%, if you still need some viscosity, inctease your Cocamide DEA. You could also do yourself a favor, and wliminate (or drastically reduce) Glycerin. No real benefit and it might be impairing your foam.

  • Paprik

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 5:36 pm

    @Abdullah personally I did not have issues with it either. However I did not use it a lot. But from IPCS everyone who ever had a problem with surfactant system and had there Lamesoft, it was the culprit. 

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    January 19, 2023 at 7:18 pm

    I’ve tried working work lamesoft at least 50 times. Always a pain. Always separates eventually. 

  • Robert

    Member
    January 20, 2023 at 6:15 am

    ketchito said:

    @Robert I agree with @Abdullah and @zetein. Find the right amount of PEG-120 that gibes viscosity but doesn’t gel. For instance, try with 1.5 or even 1%, if you still need some viscosity, inctease your Cocamide DEA. You could also do yourself a favor, and wliminate (or drastically reduce) Glycerin. No real benefit and it might be impairing your foam.

    I think @Paprik is right, first sample confirm his comment, I will do more samples to be sure as well.

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