Forum Replies Created

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  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 14, 2019 at 7:06 pm in reply to: how cosmetics were made before the invention of these products

    Examples of silicone-free brands: 
    https://www.drunkelephant.com
    https://www.omorovicza.com

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 14, 2019 at 7:04 pm in reply to: how cosmetics were made before the invention of these products

    Yes, I do really believe in that. In fact, you can formulate a product with polymers and you won’t need silicones because polymeric emulsifiers don’t soap like conventional surfactants do. Or you can formulate a silicone-free product with rather unpleasant texture but market it as natural/green/clean/organic/vegan and people will still buy it.
    I have 6 varieties of dimethicone in stock. I am not a “clean” formulator.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 14, 2019 at 6:28 pm in reply to: Henna

    Binds with keratin in hair? That explain why it’s impossible to get rid of it. It stains pillowcases, it stains everything. Even worse, it is impossible to apply any other dye except for black after it.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 14, 2019 at 4:48 pm in reply to: how cosmetics were made before the invention of these products

    Well there are many “silicone free” brands even now

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 14, 2019 at 10:33 am in reply to: BHA and BHT in gel formula ??

    I agree with Doreen, however my question is what is your formula? Alcohol is self preserving at a certain concentration.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 14, 2019 at 9:18 am in reply to: Carbomer - triglyceride interaction?

    @Doreen, good topic! I think I was lucky because I dispersed carbomer in veg oil many times. Will be more careful now.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 13, 2019 at 11:30 pm in reply to: Henna

    Henna isn’t that temporary. It’s actually more permanent  than some dyes and I learned it the hard way.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 13, 2019 at 11:20 pm in reply to: Homogenizer recommendations?

    There’s not much difference between the stick blender above and dynamix. The bosh might incorporate more air but I don’t think it is worth difference in price.

  • Thank @Sibech, this’s very useful information. I thought the restrictions are because of Diazolinidyl Urea.

  • Also is there any serious research indicating that formaldehyde donors are not safe? I ordered germall powder recently and the supplier specifies that it’s banned in the EU (they probably didn’t go into details and just said it’s banned). 

  • There’s one utterly surprising thing. I understand your point   @Window that market at large won’t accept it. However, look at LOI of any luxury product. Any of those outrageously overpriced products: chanel, dior, la prairie, guerlain, shiseido, la mer, SK-II. I analyzed hundreds of those and all I see: silicones, mineral oil, esters, petrolatum and parabens. Yet there are enough people who are ready to pay hundreds of dollars for 50ml jars of these moisturizers.

  • Organic, vegan… not good enough! It also should be palm free, ‘natural’ and handmade ?
    Belinda Carli of the instutute of personal care science posted a video recently on how to formulate organic, vegan and palmfree product. That’s a challenge!

  • @Belassi, I understand that it is impossible to summarize in two sentences but can you set me in the right direction (what to read/lookup). How do you formulate a product that is stable without standard stabilisers? I remember you mentioned that you don’t use polymers either.

  • I haven’t tried the one you are referring to but there’s one stabiliser with xantham gum that I like. It’s called siligel and it’s has much nicer texture than xantham. Products with carbomer are typically more ‘fluffy’ and airy.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 12, 2019 at 3:12 pm in reply to: Typical Glycerin Concentration

    If you pair it with propanediol it will be less sticky.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 12, 2019 at 3:11 pm in reply to: what ingredients shall add to hair gel to make looks shine

    PEG-8 Dimethicone adds some nice shine. But as Fekher said it reduces transparency (but not much).

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 12, 2019 at 7:28 am in reply to: caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

    IPM can replace caprylic/capric but vegetable oil will not replace ester in terms of feel. Oils are too heavy. The closest you can get is fractionated coconut oil.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2019 at 9:06 pm in reply to: why chemists are weak in maths ?

    Does it mean that mathematicians are weak in chemistry…. provided that I mixed anionics with cationics ones it might be true ?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2019 at 12:48 pm in reply to: Homogenizer recommendations?

    An alternative to a stick blender is an overhead stirrer provided that you don’t need high shear. So if you use polymers and stick blender instroduces too much air, you can find a cheap chinese overhead stirrer on ebay for $100. And they work fine. You can get much smoother texture of your lotions with an overhead stirrer. Also you can set it up for, say, 30 minutes and leave it do the job. You can’t do that with a stick blender as you have to hold it.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2019 at 12:31 pm in reply to: Brainstorm “The best natural emulsifiers”

    @Dtdang, I am in a very different camp. If many are sceptical of “not natural” whatever they mean by that, I am sceptical of anything with label “natural” on it. I love esters and genuinely think nothing can beat petrolatum. There are only a couple of “natural” materials that I like: above mentioned Montanov L, Montanov 202 and Siligel (amazing gel maker and stabiliser).

    So, if you are not formulating for clients who demand “natural”, organic, palm oil free, gmo-free, vegan etc. just enjoy conventional materials. They are much better.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2019 at 12:20 pm in reply to: required Hlb in emulsion seems more theoric science?

    @Fekher, I had a lot of back and forth with HLB system. I used to calculate it before but many experts say it’s just a starting point, and if you have good emulsifiers blend such as glyceryl stearate/PEG100 stearate you don’t really need to calculate HLB.
    I don’t really see much difference when I do calculate and don’t calculate HLB (but I don’t do proper stability testing, what I mean by no difference is that I see no separation for 5-6 month in room temperature). Also HLB ignores thickeners that do not have emulsificaton properties but act as co-emulsifiers (cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol etc).

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2019 at 12:26 am in reply to: Brainstorm “The best natural emulsifiers”

    Yes, they both can handle quite high oil phase. But I don’t think they are considered natural under any of the standards. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 11, 2019 at 12:23 am in reply to: Homogenizer recommendations?

    If you are sure that you need a homogenizer you can lookup used silversons on ebay. But even if you are lucky those are not very cheap.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 10, 2019 at 8:55 pm in reply to: best way to learn formulating?

    @MaisR agree 100% I started from reverse engineering existing products and that helped me to learn what ingredients do and how to work with them. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    February 9, 2019 at 7:30 pm in reply to: Natural, light stable “peaky” creamy emulsifier

    A mixture of Aristoflex AVC and Sepimax Zen. It will be very light and very peaky. Not “natural”.

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