[ngarayeva001]

It destroys melanocytes. This is what people with severe vitiligo use (I am not actually sure that 40% concentration is ever used)

[ngarayeva001]

You can use this tool 
http://makingskincare.com/surfactant-calculator/

And in general, makingskincare is a very good resource for learning.

[ngarayeva001]

http://mazjin.com/shop/skin-care/monobenzone-40-depigmenting-cream/

I didn’t even notice that they have something more serious.

[ngarayeva001]

Active matter of Sarcosinate is something around 30, CAPB is around 35. 10% of each leaves you with 6.5%
Shampoo should have 15% of active matter, so you need to recalculate.

[ngarayeva001]

Chemophobia aside:

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate as a main surfactant+CABP as a secondary. Add polyquaternium 7 for conditioning. Crothix liqud as a thickener.

No glucosides.

[ngarayeva001]

None of cosmetic ingredients cause harm when used as recommended.
Sulfates do not cause any “harm”. You might not like how hair feel after a generic SLS/SLES shampoo, but it’s a matter of taste not the indication that they cause harm. Also, that glucosides combination you use provides much worse sensorials than the cheapest sulfate based shampoo.

I think smok meant polyquaterniums. There are many of them, 7 and 10 are commonly used in shampoos. Regarding silicones, its a bit questionable, because they supress them foam. You can add them but not much. I personally like watersoluble ones.

[ngarayeva001]

What do you mean by “side effect”?

[ngarayeva001]

1% of EO is too high. Keep in mind fragrances reduce viscosity.
0.5% of EDTA? What type are you using? It looks high.
Glucosides make a terrible shampoo. They turn hair into a rat nest, especially withouht cationic compounds.
What is “Antibacterial agent”? Is it part of the preservation system?
And what makes this product anti dandruff?

[ngarayeva001]

Yes, it makes hair dry. I had quite a negative experience with it (the shade was nice though), it stained everything and it’s impossible to apply any other dye on top of it. Another proof that natural does not mean good.

[ngarayeva001]

You need to leave it for several hours until it becomes brown and only then apply.. some leave overnight 

[ngarayeva001]

I understand your point @Perry and agree that the classification they provide is often misleading. 

The reason why I like this resource is that it helps to understand how the ingredient is used. 
It all depends on the goal though. If someone is interested in creating a product that feels like “like big brands” (I often see such requests here, “how to make my formula feel like a commercial product”) it’s good to see what the industry uses.

Beautipedia used to have the same function. You could search INCI name and it would show existing commercial products with that ingredient. It only had a search engine capacities and didn’t provide assessment of an ingedient (as goodie or bad etc.) which was more fair I think. Unfortunatelly they removed that function in last August.

[ngarayeva001]

INCI decoder is a first step. It’s main purpose is to explain the function of the ingredient. It also helps to understand how the ingredient is used by ‘the industry’. For example if you google ceteareth-25 you will find out that it’s high hlb oil in water emulsifier. But if you search it through INCI decoder you will understand that it’s mostly used in hair products, not face creams.

[ngarayeva001]

1) Do you have access to other non conventional surfactants such as olefin sulfonate?
2) is that CAPB or actually coco betaine?
3) 15% of SLES is that actual concentration or as supplied?

[ngarayeva001]

Less toxic…. preservatives must be toxic, they kill bacteria! Preservatives used in cosmetics are not toxic for humans, especially when used properly.

[ngarayeva001]

35% NaOH 65% KOH. But you won’t achieve a “paste” with 40% of stearic acid. 

[ngarayeva001]

Sorry @Gunther, I couldn’t find any info on it’s compatability with cationics. Which document are you referring to? 

Even if it’s not compatible with cationics, it’s an incredible surfactant. I received mine two days ago and was very impressed. I coudn’t not achieve similar result with any other surfactant I have ever tried. Still figuring out how to thicken it properly.

[ngarayeva001]

There are emulsifiers that allow incorporating small amounts of water to oil based formula. The same way as polysorbate 20 is used to incorporate small amounts of oil into a water solution. The only one that comes to my mind is lecitin, but I am sure there’s more.

[ngarayeva001]

Again I
appreciate the fact that cosmetic formulation is a very niche industry. It is
really hard to find information online, but you can if you are resourceful enough.

One of the easiest
options is to use suppliers websites. They
want to sell their products and provide a lot of helpful information. You can learn
a lot by just using makingcosmetics.
Analysing existing products in the market also helps a lot.

Another great
way to learn is to use INCIdecoder website. Type the inci and see in which products it is
used. You can learn so much by analysing brand products!

I am not
discouraging anyone from asking questions, but I am really tired of reading diminishing comments about homecrafters who want “free formulas”, “free
answers” and don’t do the homework.

And feel free
to pm me, I will respond when I have time (if I didn’t answer a personal
question, doesn’t mean I won’t answer a question on formulation). 

[ngarayeva001]

PEG-40 HCO is not used as an emollient:

https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/75/225889/Eumulgin-CO-40

https://www.makingcosmetics.com/PEG-40-Hydrogenated-Castor-Oil_p_123.html

[ngarayeva001]

Yes, exactly formula botanica link is what you find when you type it in google.

[ngarayeva001]

I don’t want to discourage people from
asking questions, and I am always ready to respond, however this is exactly a
type of question that makes professional chemists of this forum complain that
it used to be a “safe space” for professionals that is now flooded by dilatants
and home “crappers” (instead of home crafters) as one of the members
phrased it in one of the recent discussions.

You can literally put this question in google and get
the answer. Please make sure you only ask something that Google doesn’t know. Or ask a friendly member in a pm.

Now the answer:
both are surfactants; both are used in
order to make oil and water mix together. The difference is that solubilisers
are used when you need to incorporate a tiny amount of oil into a large amount of water and achieve a clear solution. Example: you need a solubiliser to incorporate 0.5% of fragrance oil into
clear micellar water or a cleanser. You need an emulsifier to make a lotion or
a cream. It will not be clear. Anticipating the next question: the best
solubiliser is PEG-40 HCO. 

[ngarayeva001]

They sell hydroquinone. I couldn’t believe my eyes.

[ngarayeva001]

Sarcosinate is anionic too… I am sure you will find a use for it, but it probably won’t work with BTMS

[ngarayeva001]

OMG! These prices are shoking! I wish they have a version of this website in English….

[ngarayeva001]

From what I understood, they have two varieties and both are watersoluble (this is not pure amodimethicone) which means you can’t use it for this formula. Just skip amodimethicone. You can add any oil-soluble fragrance, such as essential oil. Regarding preservative, it’s not as straighforward as it seems. Some experts believe that you don’t need preservative for an anhydrous system. I know that Perry’s opinion is that any cosmetic product requires preservative. I personally do not add any preservative to an anhydrous silicone based hair detangler for personal use, but don’t quote me on this.