Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Need advice for my formulation

  • Need advice for my formulation

    Posted by tasha15 on March 12, 2019 at 2:46 am

    this is my shampoo formulation. Sls/sles/sulphate free anti dandruff shampoo.

    Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %
    Glycerin : 2 %
    EDTA                     : 0.5 %
    Lauryl Glucoside : 10%
    Decyl Glucoside : 6 %
    Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %
    Sodium Benzoate   : 0.1 %
    Sodium CMC :  1 %
    Lavender essential oil : 1 %
    Citric Acid               : As needed
    Water                      : Qs - 100.

    IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD ADD OR REMOVE TO MAKE THIS FORMULATION BETTER. Please guide me. Thank you for your time and consideration. 

    Ahmad replied 4 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 27 Replies
  • 27 Replies
  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 5:49 am

    This there anything i should do? Or this formulation is already good enough. 

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 6:29 am

    Should i add Cocamidopropyl betaine 10% ?

  • smok

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 10:01 am
    2% btaine
    add selicone or poly
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 10:15 am

    1% of EO is too high. Keep in mind fragrances reduce viscosity.
    0.5% of EDTA? What type are you using? It looks high.
    Glucosides make a terrible shampoo. They turn hair into a rat nest, especially withouht cationic compounds.
    What is “Antibacterial agent”? Is it part of the preservation system?
    And what makes this product 
    anti dandruff?

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 10:55 am

    Sorry it was suppose to be 0.05 % of EDTA. Will reduce the EO to 0.5 % then. What other main surfactant that is sls free or sulphate free that i can use? That also has lower side effect. Should i add any solubiliser?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 11:19 am

    What do you mean by “side effect”?

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 11:19 am

    smok said:

    2% btaine
    add selicone or poly

    What poly or selicone?

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 11:33 am

    What do you mean by “side effect”?

    I mean low harm. What should i add to make this formulation better?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 12:15 pm

    None of cosmetic ingredients cause harm when used as recommended.
    Sulfates do not cause any “harm”. You might not like how hair feel after a generic SLS/SLES shampoo, but it’s a matter of taste not the indication that they cause harm. Also, that glucosides combination you use provides much worse sensorials than the cheapest sulfate based shampoo.

    I think smok meant polyquaterniums. There are many of them, 7 and 10 are commonly used in shampoos. Regarding silicones, its a bit questionable, because they supress them foam. You can add them but not much. I personally like watersoluble ones.

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 12:18 pm

    None of cosmetic ingredients cause harm when used as recommended.
    Sulfates do not cause any “harm”. You might not like how hair feel after a generic SLS/SLES shampoo, but it’s a matter of taste not the indication that they cause harm. Also, that glucosides combination you use provides much worse sensorials than the cheapest sulfate based shampoo.

    So should i replace the lauryl glucoside with Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate. Will it be better.  Whats your opinion. Thank you for helping 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 12:22 pm

    Chemophobia aside:

    Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate as a main surfactant+CABP as a secondary. Add polyquaternium 7 for conditioning. Crothix liqud as a thickener.

    No glucosides.

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 12:23 pm
    Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %
    Glycerin : 2 %
    EDTA                     : 0.05 %
    Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate : 10%
    Decyl Glucoside : 6 %
    Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %
    Cocamidopropyl betaine: 10%
    Sodium Benzoate   : 0.1 %
    Sodium CMC : 1 %
    Lavender essential oil : 0.5 %
    Citric Acid               : As needed
    Water                      : Qs - 100.

    does this sound better?

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 12:23 pm

    Chemophobia aside:

    Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate as a main surfactant+CABP as a secondary. Add polyquaternium 7 for conditioning. Crothix liqud as a thickener.

    No glucosides.

    Owh okay i just saw this comment. 

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 12:25 pm

    The percentage of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 10% and CABP 10% will be okay?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 12:38 pm

    Active matter of Sarcosinate is something around 30, CAPB is around 35. 10% of each leaves you with 6.5%
    Shampoo should have 15% of active matter, so you need to recalculate.

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 1:27 pm

    Active matter of Sarcosinate is something around 30, CAPB is around 35. 10% of each leaves you with 6.5%
    Shampoo should have 15% of active matter, so you need to recalculate.

    Okay thank you very much ❤️

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 2:47 pm

    You can use this tool 
    http://makingskincare.com/surfactant-calculator/

    And in general, makingskincare is a very good resource for learning.

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 12, 2019 at 3:05 pm

    Again thank you so much ? 

  • gunther

    Member
    March 13, 2019 at 12:57 am

    tasha15 said:

    this is my shampoo formulation. Sls/sles/sulphate free anti dandruff shampoo.

    Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %
    Glycerin : 2 %
    EDTA                     : 0.5 %
    Lauryl Glucoside : 10%
    Decyl Glucoside : 6 %
    Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %
    Sodium Benzoate   : 0.1 %
    Sodium CMC :  1 %
    Lavender essential oil : 1 %
    Citric Acid               : As needed
    Water                      : Qs - 100.

    IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD ADD OR REMOVE TO MAKE THIS FORMULATION BETTER. Please guide me. Thank you for your time and consideration. 

    1. What’s the antibacterial agent? Does that work as a preservative too?
    2. EDTA better at 0.1%.
    3. Too much glucosides will make it sticky. 
    4. Na-benzoate too little at 0.1%. Better at 0.5%+acidic pH, but even that’s no substitute for microbial tests.
    5. I don’t think Na-CMC will thicken glucosides much, but only experimentation can tell.
    6. Citric acid as needed? What’s the target pH?

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 13, 2019 at 5:56 pm

    Gunther said:

    tasha15 said:

    this is my shampoo formulation. Sls/sles/sulphate free anti dandruff shampoo.

    Antibacterial agent: 0.5 %
    Glycerin : 2 %
    EDTA                     : 0.5 %
    Lauryl Glucoside : 10%
    Decyl Glucoside : 6 %
    Coco Glucoside & Gliceryl Oleate : 2 %
    Sodium Benzoate   : 0.1 %
    Sodium CMC :  1 %
    Lavender essential oil : 1 %
    Citric Acid               : As needed
    Water                      : Qs - 100.

    IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD ADD OR REMOVE TO MAKE THIS FORMULATION BETTER. Please guide me. Thank you for your time and consideration. 

    1. What’s the antibacterial agent? Does that work as a preservative too?
    2. EDTA better at 0.1%.
    3. Too much glucosides will make it sticky. 
    4. Na-benzoate too little at 0.1%. Better at 0.5%+acidic pH, but even that’s no substitute for microbial tests.
    5. I don’t think Na-CMC will thicken glucosides much, but only experimentation can tell.
    6. Citric acid as needed? What’s the target pH?

    No the antibacterial agent is only to treat the dandruff. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 13, 2019 at 6:33 pm

    Dandruff is caused by either immune system issues or fungus infection, not bacteria. You don’t have a proper preservative system in your formula.

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 16, 2019 at 1:43 pm

    Dandruff is caused by either immune system issues or fungus infection, not bacteria. You don’t have a proper preservative system in your formula.

    What preservatives should i subtitute with then?

    antidandruff agent : 1%
    glycerin : 2%
    edta : 0.1 %
    sodium lauryl sarcosinate : 20%
    CABP : 10 %
    polyquaternium 7 : 1%
    crothix liquid : 1%
    sodium benzoate : 0.5 %
    essential oil : 0.5 %
    citric acid : qs 
    water : qs

  • tasha15

    Member
    March 16, 2019 at 3:03 pm

    Sorry
    sodium lauryl sarcosinate: 10%
    CABP : 20%

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 16, 2019 at 9:39 pm

    You should understand the science behind calculating surfactants active matter.

  • Ahmad

    Member
    May 6, 2019 at 6:16 am
    Belassi said:
    940 is useless with anionic surfactants.

    which grade of carbopol is better, ultrez-20/21 is not available in our country.
    we have polygel-940/941/934.
    Does it have any other name (ultrez-21)?
    can anyone answer?

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