ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Amodimethicone isn’t watersoluble but usually comes in a format of emulsion.
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Can be replaced by peg8 dimethicone or amodimethicone
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There’s also Germaben II parabens and diazolidinyl urea
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Food isn’t preservable in cosmetics in most cases. It’s likely contaminated
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It’s a matter of perception but I feel like cetiol ultimate is more spreadable than D5 (again my personal perception). I am not a fan of ‘natural’ alternatives but this one is nice.
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I used this trick many times and it always works: mix your oil with alkyl benzoate, add cyclomethicone, add that solution into dimethicone. It must be noted that it only works up to a certain amount of oil. Not more than 2-3% subject to the type of oil.
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Basically everywhere where you need spreadability and glide. It’s is also polar.
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Octyldodecanol is a fabulous ingredient for lipbalms. It goes exceptionally well with petrolatum. It also works great in various anhydrous products like body oil.
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Zen can deal with 1-1.5% of sodium lactate. But that’s about it. And it’s the most electrolyte resistant polymer I have tried. I test them in water as @Graillotion suggested.
When manufacturers say ‘electrolytes resistant’ they mostly mean acid but not salts. -
A bit off topic but I thought someone might find it useful, surfactant Iselux https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/3904/97777/Iselux
requires chelator to clarify (otherwise it’s cloudy). Citric acid is sufficient for this purpose.
Citric acid is a super versatile ingredient. -
PhilGeis said:some information chapter 7 - https://www.anme.com.mx/libros/Cosmetic%20Microbiology%20-%20A%20Practical%20Approach.pdf
Thank you @PhilGeis for sharing your book. This is incredibly nice of you. The table 7.3 is a treasure!
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@Pharma thank you! This is so cool!! I thought it just used in deodorants
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Tetrasodium is supposed to be used in higher ph products. The trick with disodium is heating it.
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I wouldn’t say their formulas are great. As well as large suppliers’ ones. Can you post which formula is that and what cold process emulsifiers you have already?
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Totally out of topic but I learned that phenoxyethanol is used for long-term preservation of embalmed cadavers (used for demonstrations to medical students). A versatile ingredient, must I say!
My life will never be the same ???? -
@Graillotion, sorry are you referring to sodium citrate?
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Another alternative is w/o emulsion instead of o/w. pH of w/o doesn’t drift. Having said that w/o are tricky and it’s easier to figure out henderson-hasselbalch equation.
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You need to estimate ph of buffer solution using Henderson-Hasselbalch equation. There are calculators online http://calistry.org/calculate/ph-buffer-Henderson-Hasselbalch
Although, I think it’s easier to stick it into Excel and let it do the job (calculating logs etc). All input are available online, you need to convert amounts of acid and conjugate base to moles (also available online). I use lactic acid buffer.
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Preservation system might need improvement. Clay is very difficult to preserve. I would use parabens.
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Thank you for all you do, Perry. Your podcast sparked so much interest in me that I dared to get into the fascinating world of cosmetic formulation and then continued learning thanks to this forum.
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DECIEM has ethyl ascorbic acid in 3 products and they all are in propanediol as a solvent. No water at all.
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It should work in a plain SLES/CAPB formulation. Which surfactants are you using?
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Have you thought how are you going to gel it? Aloe gels on the market use carbomer. Also, fresh aloe contains aloin which is much more controversial than parabens. Aloin ideally should be removed.
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A lot on EOs was discussed here:https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/4656/to-be-or-not-to-be-essential-oils-in-skincare#latest
plus Perry kindly shared additional read (available to be downloaded)
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I use sodium lactate on its own but I never use urea (in o/w) without sodium lactate (because buffer). As per my anecdotal experience nothing saves dry hands quicker than urea + sodium lactate.