Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid tips & tricks

  • 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid tips & tricks

    Posted by Meemcha on November 12, 2021 at 6:34 pm

    Hello guys,

    I’ve recently got my hands on 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and wanna start playing with it. However, the information on it is quite scarce and, to be honest, I don’t know where to start. All I found is the recommendation to ‘dissolve 1g 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid in 1g citric acid buffer (pH 5.5) and then add to water phase’. 
    I’ll try it that way next week, but I would very much appreciate any advice on how to work with it I can get from people who are more familiar or working with this ingredient.
    I am aware that asking ‘what do I do with this’ is too broad, so, to be more specific, my ultimate goal is to incorporate it into an O/W emulsion at up to 2%.
    It costs like a kidney on the black market and I only have 30 g, so the number of screw-ups is quite limited :).
    Thank you!

    fethtahir replied 2 years, 5 months ago 5 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • suswang8

    Member
    November 14, 2021 at 7:53 pm

    Hi, @Meemcha.

    For some reason, this derivative is still not widely used; thus, very little information about it seems to be available online.

    I saw that a couple of websites describe it as water soluble, in which case I would be tempted to just add it at 1pct to start with and test there.  If you are making 50g samples, that is only 0.5g used/wasted.  May I ask where you found that information about dissolving it in the citric acid mixture first?  I can only imagine it is necessary to do that if the pH of this product is so low that the “shock” of it going into water with a pH of c.7 is too much for it to handle? I really don’t know. 

  • Meemcha

    Member
    November 15, 2021 at 3:44 pm

    suswang8 said:

    Hi, @Meemcha.

    For some reason, this derivative is still not widely used; thus, very little information about it seems to be available online.

    I saw that a couple of websites describe it as water soluble, in which case I would be tempted to just add it at 1pct to start with and test there.  If you are making 50g samples, that is only 0.5g used/wasted.  May I ask where you found that information about dissolving it in the citric acid mixture first?  I can only imagine it is necessary to do that if the pH of this product is so low that the “shock” of it going into water with a pH of c.7 is too much for it to handle? I really don’t know. 

    Hey @suswang8,

    Thank you for the response! The first time I saw the buffer recommendation is on my supplier’s site
    But then, while researching, I found it also here. And this Selco brochure says ‘Ethyl Ascorbic Acid can easily be incorporated in cosmetic emulsion and other formulations. It is water soluble. The recommended pH range is 5.0 - 6.0. For better stability and to avoid pH-drift to acidic pH- values the use of 1 % citrate buffer is recommended.’
    I wasn’t planning to work around pH, but to play with it in products with pH 5-6. Just trying to understand if and why pH might drift with this material. Either way, I’ll make a few different samples and keep them at 30-35 deg. Celsius for some time and see what happens. I’ll post the results here in case you are curious :)
  • suswang8

    Member
    November 15, 2021 at 7:11 pm

    I’m thinking “1% citrate buffer” means “1% sodium citrate”?  Perhaps one of the experts on here can say for sure.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 15, 2021 at 7:28 pm

    DECIEM has ethyl ascorbic acid in 3 products and they all are in propanediol as a solvent. No water at all.

  • Cdsgames

    Member
    November 23, 2021 at 3:16 pm

    Its water soluble but attention , its stable at ph 5.5 and lower…

  • fethtahir

    Member
    November 26, 2021 at 10:17 am

    Its soluble in glycerin and alcohol, using propanadiol just caused bubble in your end product.
    I am more prefer to disolved in glycerin. My end product ph  is 4.5

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