ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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I am actually quite impressed by some of NIOD’s formulas but I can totally see that NIOD doesn’t have a significant contribution to the sales. Loaded with expensive activities and I don’t think that the margin is impressive (ethyl ascorbic acid serum is an example).
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Start a new discussion and show %
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Oh it’s a bar.. Well in this case you have to redo it, because you have too many liquid components.
SCI is mild, but it’s a powder and sometimes causes issues in liquid products. -
Face cleansers shouldn’t contain more than 10% of active matter. Read below:
http://makingskincare.com/surfactant-calculator/
You feel film because you have too much of stearic acid. You don’t need it at all.
Make sarcosinate primary surfactant and don’t add much SCI.
You dont need so much of polysorbate 20. I assume your formula isn’t clear anyway so there’s no need to solubilise oils. Go for 1:1 if you want to premix triglycerides.
You waste butylene glycol and glycerin. Keep them below 4% (together). -
Olefin sulfonate is cheap, mild, foaming well enough and not so difficult to thinken. I use it as a primary surfactant (I am not a chemist to put it straight). Check out OGX shampoos: Olefin Sulfonate + CAPB +SCI (in some versions) IMO one of the best shampoo brands in the market with much better performance than some ‘salon brands’. And it’s sulfate free.
SLES is ‘strogner’ (when considering squeeky clean effect), but olefin sulfonate is close if you don’t add too much CAPB and other milder materials. You can always use ‘natural’ glucosides but they are terrible in shampoo. -
I was quite surprised by textures of Drunk Elephant’s products, provided that they don’t use silicones. I agree it’s overpriced and marula oil doesn’t do anything special.
I said DECIEM because I used their other brands (NIOD, Hylamide) as well, not only the ordinary. None of them claim to be ‘free of’ -
Where are you based? I am pretty sure I saw 68 in one of european stores.
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DECIEM does not make any “natural” or “clean” claims as far as I know. They are quite conventional and use silicones in many of their lines. They use “something” - free table (as the one below), but they have water-free products with are not silicones-free.
As you can see there are no common “criminals” as parabens in this table.
They probably imply that alcohol and gluten are the “criminals”, but IMHO it’s quite easy to make efficient, cost effective and well performing products without nuts, alcohol (I am not talking about sanitisers) and gluten. The one below could actually be officially claimed as preservatives free, as it’s two ingredients in propanediol 1,3.
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@Zink I use acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer quite a lot… The article you shared doesn’t say which ingredient increases TEWL though, it says “The ingredients which influence the skin barrier function need to be identified, and the mechanism clarified at the molecular level”. Have I missed anything?
Regarding companies like Drunk Elephant, they are in what is now called “clean beauty”. Has nothing to do with any natural standards such as Ecocert. They just put together a list of “bad” ingredients depending on their preferences (I saw glycerin in that list once) and claim they are “clean”. Drunk Elephant made vilans of parabens (so original!), silicones and perfume. There is whole section for “clean beauty” in Sephora. -
Edible skincare.. I saw a drinkable perfume yesterday. Made of 60% of gin…
Do you mind specifying which polyacrylate emulsifier was it? I have quite a few and wondering whether I use it.
Very interesting point on olive oil. Would appreciate a link to a paper if you have it. I noticed it’s quite drying after a couple uses, but thought it’s an anecdotal evidence.
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I don’t have experience with SLMI (going to order it soon though) but I do have experience with SCI. Provided that both are powders I think my point might still be relevant. It is very hard to achieve reasonable result for a liquid product with powdered surfactantas. It will either separate, or change viscosity or you will have some flakes on the bottom of the bottle at some point. SCI performs great in bar products. Have you considered using sodium lauroyl sarcosinate? It is very gentle surfactant and it comes in a liquid form.
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I usually think of “granma’s hand cream in an alumimum tube from early 90’s” when feel stearic acid in a product.
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I am pretty sure texture is the answer. Stearic is draggy and causes a lot of soaping (much more that cetearyl alcohol). There are vey few formulas with stearic acid that have good texture (I usually think of the formulator as a magican when I find one). Regarding stickiness, you don’t usually achieve full viscosity by fatty alcohols only, so don’t use it to the point where they become sticky.
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Depending on a formula phenoxyethanol reduces viscosity. Example surfactants. Preservatives do mess with viscosity in general. A blend of Phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid, caprylyl glycol significantly impacts texture of lotions made with polymeric emulsifiers.
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I would increase Niacinamide to 4% and reduce Panthenol to 0.2%. Reason for that, Niacinamide is proven to work and Pantehol is proven to add stickiness.
Regarding dimethicone, I would suggest adding more to support TEWL claim. To be honest, nothing is better for reducing TEWL than petrolatum…
The questionable thing here is your emulsification system. Why coco-glucoside? Any particular reason for choosing it? -
What is coastal soap?
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There’s no such INCI as ‘essential oils blend’. You even have to disclose some components of essential oils (such as limonene) separately when used at a certain %. Regarding replacement of musk, there are aroma chemicals that smell similar to musk such as ISO-E super and galaxolide. I think this question should be asked on a perfumery rather than formulation forum.
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@Dirtnap1, do you mean polyquaternium- 7 or actually polyquaternium-10?
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Yes, all your suspicions are correct. Fragrance (and even peg-40 hco) causes loss of viscousity and not all surfactants can be thickened with salt. Another thought, try to check pH before and after adding fragrance.
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1) EWG is a scam.
2) Yes, it is PEG, and? -
You are correct it is the fragrance that causesed loss of viscosity. 2% is actually very high.
You can try HEC as a thickener and also replacing DISODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE to Cocamide-DEA as it adds viscosity.
Just curious is it a ready blend what you are using? -
Hmm 6% of fatty alcohols looks like enough to thinken a conditioner. Try to repeat the same experiment without esters, aloe and propylene glycol. It also looks to me that 1.5% of glyceryl stearate might not be enough..
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Phase INCI % 100.0 A Aqua 83.10% 83.10 A Disodium EDTA 0.20% 0.20 A Glycerin 1.00% 1.00 A Ultrez 30 0.70% 0.70 HLB Ratio B Prunus amygdalus
dulcis10.00% 10.00 6 B Glyceryl Oleate 3.00% 3.00 3.5 2.63 B Polysorbate 60 1.00% 1.00 14.9 3.73 C Germaben II 1.00% 1.00 6.35 C TEA qs HLB of the oil phase is 6, HLB of the blend of emulsifiers 6.35. Oil in water lightweight gel.