Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating 23% lipids cream

  • 23% lipids cream

    Posted by em88 on March 28, 2019 at 11:22 am

    Greetings,

    I have a project in formulation a cream o/w. 
    It is composed by:
    Oil phase: Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol,
    Water phase: water and lactic buffer based
    Emulsifiers: Tween+span

    It should be an easy cream to formulate. 
    I red in a presentation that this cream has 23% of lipids. I guess this amount is to achieve the viscosity of the cream which is not too thin but it’s not like an ointment. (I’m waiting for more samples to measure the viscosity).
    I don’t have experience with Octyldodecanol and my question is, what’s the usual quantity used in creams?. From a quick research I got 1.5-6%.

    Thank you

    em88 replied 5 years ago 4 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 12:27 pm

    Think of it as of vegetable oil. It’s a medium viscosity ester. Very multifunctional. You can use more than 6%.

  • em88

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 1:43 pm

    Think of it as of vegetable oil. It’s a medium viscosity ester. Very multifunctional. You can use more than 6%.

    That would be great, I can regulate the viscosity much easier. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 2:04 pm

    I have just checked my formulas, I use 8% in one of o/w lotions (total oil phase is 20% that inlude other esters and fatty alcohols). It is used in lip balms as a first ingredient:

    https://uk.loccitane.com/natural-shea-awarded-best-lip-balm,83,1,29776,271948.htm#s=75880

    https://incidecoder.com/products/nivea-pure-and-natural-milk-and-honey-lip-balm

    So, you can definitely use more than 6%.

  • em88

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 3:03 pm

    I wrote a few formulas, and I was thinking to try first 8% octyldodecanol.
    Just found a clotrimazole cream drug with 13.5% octyldodecanol

    sorbitan stearate - 2 g, cetyl palmitate, cetostearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol 60% and stearyl alcohol 40%), polysorbate 60 - 1.5 g, octyldodecanol - 13.5 g, benzyl alcohol, purified water 

    It is strange that they added more sorbitan stearate than polysorbate 60 for a o/w cream. Did they consider Cetearyl Alcohol as an emulsifier?

  • belassi

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 5:14 pm

    Did they consider Cetearyl Alcohol as an emulsifier?
    — It IS.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 5:53 pm

    I am sure it has something to do with the calculation. I have a formula (it has been stable at the room temperature for the last 7 months) emulsified with 3% Glyceryl Oleate and 1% of Polysorbate 60 and it is O/W. Oil pase is 10%. Recalculate the HLB.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 6:02 pm


    Phase INCI % 100.0
    A Aqua 83.10% 83.10
    A Disodium EDTA 0.20% 0.20
    A Glycerin 1.00% 1.00
    A Ultrez 30 0.70% 0.70 HLB Ratio
    B Prunus amygdalus
    dulcis 
    10.00% 10.00
    B Glyceryl Oleate 3.00% 3.00 3.5 2.63
    B Polysorbate 60 1.00% 1.00 14.9 3.73
    C Germaben II 1.00% 1.00 6.35
    C TEA   qs

    HLB of the oil phase is 6, HLB of the blend of emulsifiers 6.35. Oil in water lightweight gel.

  • Dtdang

    Member
    March 28, 2019 at 7:15 pm

    Try using emulsifier Sepiplus 400
    it is freedom formulation to 50% oul

  • em88

    Member
    March 29, 2019 at 8:21 am

    Belassi said:

    Did they consider Cetearyl Alcohol as an emulsifier?
    — It IS.

    So you changed your mind? https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/745/cetearyl-alcohol-emulsifier-or-not

    I am sure it has something to do with the calculation. I have a formula (it has been stable at the room temperature for the last 7 months) emulsified with 3% Glyceryl Oleate and 1% of Polysorbate 60 and it is O/W. Oil pase is 10%. Recalculate the HLB.

    You might be right. 
    sorbitan stearate - 2 %, polysorbate 60 - 1.5 % can emulsify an oil phase with the HLB of 9.08
    cetyl palmitate rHLB - 10 (3%)
    cetearyl alcohol rHLB - 15.5 (10%)
    Octyldodecanol rHLB - around 11 (13.5%) accourding to this paper: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/289449490_Required_Hydrophilic-Lipophilic_Balance_Values_of_Octyldodecanol_from_Emulsion_Stability_Tests_and_Relative_Dielectric_Permittivity_Measurements

    Dtdang said:

    Try using emulsifier Sepiplus 400
    it is freedom formulation to 50% oul

    I’m not allowed to change formula, I’m stuck with the same ingredients as the reference.

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