Forum Replies Created

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  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 11, 2019 at 12:46 pm in reply to: Use 1 formula for multiple uses

    I don’t know whether it’s an acceptable alternative for you @Royalbre, but you might want to consider syndet bar products. The reason why i am saying it, bars are solid, and very forgiving from mixing anionics and cationics point of view. You can make a syndet bar with relatively inexpensive anionic detergents (SLSa), throw BTMS-50 in it for conditioning and position it as three in one product (shampoo/conditioner/body wash), plus no bottles at all. These products also last long, and travel friendly. 

  • @amitvedakar, Cetostearyl alcohol is not an emulsifier. It’s a fatty alcohol that is used a co-emulsifier and a thickener. You need a real emulsifier and Arlacel 165 is a good option. I agree with @Sven that cetyl alcohol is smoother and less draggy, but you can use cetostearyl alcohol too. 8% sounds high to me, but it’s a matter of preference. Amount of emulsifiers and thickeners depends on the oil phase and desired viscosity.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 11, 2019 at 6:17 am in reply to: Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

    I see. You might be overcomplicating it though. You can dissolve it in pure PG or propanediol and thats it. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 7:00 pm in reply to: Use 1 formula for multiple uses

    I tried to see (purely out of curiosity) if 27% SLES, as supplied, is good for washing dishes. The answer is no. It can’t clean an oily pan as quickly and efficiently as Fairy dishwashing liquid. I also tried olefin sulfonate (because it’s cheap). Same result. So I concluded if these detergents (that are intended to be used in personal care) don’t work at such concentrations they not going to wash anything when diluted to body wash appropriate concentration (15-20% of active surf matter). 

  • You have actually chosen the worst ones…
    Here, an oil discussion, Perry shared here a study on essential oils, that specifies that citrus oils are phototoxic:
    https://www.chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/4656/to-be-or-not-to-be-essential-oils-in-skincare#latest

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 5:20 pm in reply to: Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

    May I ask why pg/si?

  • @Gunther, I don’t see any difference on my hair. I even have a feeling that it tangles my hair even more. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 4:17 pm in reply to: PEG-75 Lanolin

    Although I absolutely adore PEGs, and can’t imagine my formulation life without them, I understand that sometimes people have preferences that are hard to justify. For example I don’t tolerate most of animal derived products in my skincare. No logic behind it but I think that applying sheep’s sebum (talking about lanolin) on my face is super-mega-extra gross. Same about lard, tallow, and emu oil. I know that probably many lipsticks that I have contain carmine but prefer not to think about it. I am not a vegan. I like eating bacon, but I don’t want it on my skin :smiley:

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 4:02 pm in reply to: Use 1 formula for multiple uses

    I often use the cleaner that is assumed to be used in the bathroom for the kitchen, but dish washing liquid and bodywash are not the same thing. You will either have a product that is ok to use on body but doesn’t properly clean your pots, or you will have a product that cleans your pots but also dries skin out.

    You can, however easily repurpose body wash as a shampoo if you add some polyquat 10 or polyquat 7.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 3:56 pm in reply to: Natural Fragrances added to formula

    All fragrance and EOs are different. They all require different amount of solubiliser. As Perry said, adding it straight to the product will make it cloudy, plus some fragrance oils are so hard to solubilise that they will just form oil droplets. They also can have quite a negative effect viscosity. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 3:51 pm in reply to: Butylene Glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate and silica

    I worked with butylene glycol and I haven’t noticed it decreasing viscosity. It’s good and not expensive humectant. It is a glycol and decreases water activity which an additional benefit. I also find it less tacky than glycerin, so it is my humectant of choice for many o/w formulas.
    If you want something for decreasing viscosity (for formulas with polymeric emulsifiers) go for humectants that are high in electrolytes such as sodium PCA (it’s a viscosity killer). But my problem is usually how not to decrease viscosity.
    Silica.. it’s quite multipurpose. You can use it in a formula for oily skin indeed. Have a look at clinique’s pep start moisturiser so see silica used for oil absorption. I mostly use it in foundations and concealers though.
    I haven’t worked with dicaprylyl carbonate.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 10:36 am in reply to: Do I need a chelating agent

    re: “We use De-ionized water - do we even need a chelator?”
    Yes, you do, because chelators not only bind metals but increase efficacy of preservatives. It’s part of your preservation system.
    Disodium EDTA has very low solubility in water. I have to mix it for quite a while even at 0.1%. Not sure this is the very reason of your problem but as an option you can try Tetrasodium EDTA which solubilises easily and I noticed that suppliers advise using it for clear products.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 9, 2019 at 7:48 pm in reply to: anionic co surfactant 1+1=1

    Useful video on EU guidelines that can potentially be used by other countries:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d72myZZBYdQ

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 9, 2019 at 7:39 pm in reply to: Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

    The emulsifiers I listed above are W/Si emulsifiers. They will do the job.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 9, 2019 at 12:56 pm in reply to: Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

    Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone is also sold here:
    https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/abil-em-90

    Use google chrome translate function.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 9, 2019 at 12:54 pm in reply to: Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

    INCI %
    Aqua 62.80%
    Betaine 3.00%
    Magnesium
    Sulfate
    1.00%
    Sodium lactate 2.00%
    Euxyl PE 9010 1.00%
    PG 3.00%
    Dimethicone 5 10.00%
    Caprylic/Capric 13.00%
    Magnesium Stearate 0.50%
    PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00%
    Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1
    Dimethicone (Abil EM 90)
    0.70%
    Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate 0.50%
    HCO 0.50%

    This one has been stable for 3 months already (W/O are utterly unstable in general). High viscosity but light upon application, silky afterfeel and not greasy at all.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 9, 2019 at 12:50 pm in reply to: Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

    If you can order from Trulux, I advise to get PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, which is W/O, but works great for foundations and other W/Si emulsions in combination with Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone. They also have Dow Corning Formulation Aid 5225. If you have these three emulsifiers you can create w/si with a great texture. They all react well on magnesium stearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (which is also sold on Trulux) and even Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax as thickeners. 
    Grab some phenyl trimethicone too, it’s amazing for W/Si (for even better slip).

  • It really depends on the formula. I can notice a difference in a lower viscosity gel cream formulas made with light esters but not in more traditional thicker creams. I would not be able to tell a difference between dimethicone 1000 and dimethicone 10 in a cream like the one above. And since 1000 is cheaper and easier to find I would use 1000. Also arlacel 165 will emulsify small amount of silicone easily no matter what the viscosity is.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 8, 2019 at 6:31 pm in reply to: What is vitamin E doing in vaping formulation?

    Not going to formulate vaping fluid but just curious why wouldn’t you smoke anything with propylene glycol? I thought it’s safe… 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 8, 2019 at 11:12 am in reply to: anionic co surfactant 1+1=1

    What is exactly the standard you are working with? Is it cosmos or self defined paraben free vegan-halal? It’s very hard to make non vegan shampoo. The majority of personal care products are vegan. Same with halal. The only way, that comes to my mind, to make a shampoo not halal is adding collagen protein which I don’t see in shampoos often. 
    Regarding co-surfactants, their purpose is to make main surfactant milder. The most common co-surfactant is CAPB. You can however make a shampoo for very sensitive scalp with CAPB only. Whether it’s going to work as well as tradition SLES/CAPB is a different question. So if you are willing to limit yourself with ‘free of’ formulations, which are already illegal way of marketing in the EU by the way,  it’s your decision. You can make a shampoo of ‘co-surfactants’ only. Coco glucoside, decyl glucoside and CAPB fit into all of your categories. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 7, 2019 at 8:25 pm in reply to: Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

    I noticed that material on their website but haven’t tried it. Couldn’t find much about it. General tricks for w/o emulsions: add 1% of salt to the water phase (NaCl or magnesium sulfate). Add 0.5% of magnesium or zinc stearate to the oil phase. You can also add cera bellina or HCO (wax, not peg-40 HCO). Actually you can buy materials for w/si on DIY market. Trulux sells Dow’s Formulation aid 5225 and glamoucosmetics.it sells Abil EM 90.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 6, 2019 at 9:45 pm in reply to: Niacinamide/NAG/Resveratrol combo oxidising

    Thank you @Bill_Toge, I will try to increase both and see what happens. I had a perception that these antioxidants are supposed to be used at a low level (both suppliers recommendations and information from the forum)

  • I guess it’s a matter of personal preferences. I don’t like cetrimonium chloride at all.  However comparing Behentrimonium Chloride and BTMS, I think the chloride is more conditioning.

  • It’s not the emulsifier, it’s the stearic acid. Is the emulsifier the only variable? It’s surprising it didn’t soap before. The fix is super easy though - add dimethicone.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 6, 2019 at 11:33 am in reply to: Niacinamide/NAG/Resveratrol combo oxidising

    0.1% of each tocopherol and BHT. I will have a look what water-soluble antioxidants I can find.

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