Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

Formulating

Which waxes are good to stabilize silicone emulsions?

Posted by firstlight on September 4, 2019 at 11:08 pm

Hello,

I am trying to stabilize a silicone emulsion because it loses viscosity a bit after I make it. I don’t have many options as a hobbyist in regards to silicone emulsifiers and I could probably choose a better one if I had a better selection, but alas, I don’t.

I was wondering if anyone could recommend any good waxes to stabilize silicone emulsions?

Thank you!

ngarayeva001 replied 4 years, 8 months ago 3 Members · 13 Replies
13 Replies

ngarayeva001

Member
September 5, 2019 at 1:56 pm

There are too many inputs for w/si that can affect viscosity. Post the entire formula. What emulsifier are you using?
firstlight

Member
September 7, 2019 at 4:58 pm

Thanks for the response!

I was actually making a PG/Si emulsion using Lotioncrafters SE (self emulsifying) Serum.

Esentially my formula is 5% Vitamin C, 50% propylene glycol and 45% Lotioncrafters SE Serum (INCI: Dimethicone (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and)
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15
Dimethicone Crosspolymer).

The emulsion is high viscosity for about a day till it drops by the next day or two but it stabilizes at this new lower viscosity. I was just wondering if their is anything I can add to the silicone phase phase to thicken it back up?
ngarayeva001

Member
September 7, 2019 at 8:25 pm

I noticed that material on their website but haven’t tried it. Couldn’t find much about it. General tricks for w/o emulsions: add 1% of salt to the water phase (NaCl or magnesium sulfate). Add 0.5% of magnesium or zinc stearate to the oil phase. You can also add cera bellina or HCO (wax, not peg-40 HCO). Actually you can buy materials for w/si on DIY market. Trulux sells Dow’s Formulation aid 5225 and glamoucosmetics.it sells Abil EM 90.
firstlight

Member
September 9, 2019 at 1:20 am

Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone was what I was thinking too… a silicone wax maybe an elegant solution?

Trulux also sells it and I was thinking about picking it up there…
ngarayeva001

Member
September 9, 2019 at 12:50 pm

If you can order from Trulux, I advise to get PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, which is W/O, but works great for foundations and other W/Si emulsions in combination with Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone. They also have Dow Corning Formulation Aid 5225. If you have these three emulsifiers you can create w/si with a great texture. They all react well on magnesium stearate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (which is also sold on Trulux) and even Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax as thickeners.
Grab some phenyl trimethicone too, it’s amazing for W/Si (for even better slip).

ngarayeva001

Member

September 9, 2019 at 12:54 pm

INCI	%
Aqua	62.80%
Betaine	3.00%
Magnesium Sulfate	1.00%
Sodium lactate	2.00%
Euxyl PE 9010	1.00%
PG	3.00%
Dimethicone 5	10.00%
Caprylic/Capric	13.00%
Magnesium Stearate	0.50%
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate	2.00%
Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Abil EM 90)	0.70%
Polyglyceryl-3 Triolivate	0.50%
HCO	0.50%

This one has been stable for 3 months already (W/O are utterly unstable in general). High viscosity but light upon application, silky afterfeel and not greasy at all.

ngarayeva001

Member
September 9, 2019 at 12:56 pm

Cetyl PEG-PPG–10/1 Dimethicone is also sold here:
https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/abil-em-90

Use google chrome translate function.
Gunther

Member
September 9, 2019 at 3:53 pm

Silicones are much harder to emulsify than oils
The HLB system doesn’t work well with silicones.

You may wish to stick to existing formulations proven to be able to emulsify silicones.
You may wish to consider cationic emulsions, like BTMS or Cetrimonium chloride + fatty alcohols.
ngarayeva001

Member
September 9, 2019 at 7:39 pm

The emulsifiers I listed above are W/Si emulsifiers. They will do the job.
firstlight

Member
September 10, 2019 at 1:27 am

Thanks for the info! I was referring to propylene glycol in silicone emulsion (pg/si) though not water in silicone… So I don’t think that formula is relevant…
ngarayeva001

Member
September 10, 2019 at 5:20 pm

May I ask why pg/si?
firstlight

Member
September 11, 2019 at 3:55 am

the vitamin c remains stable in the pg/si emulsions…
ngarayeva001

Member
September 11, 2019 at 6:17 am

I see. You might be overcomplicating it though. You can dissolve it in pure PG or propanediol and thats it.