

ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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You are going to damage your skin.
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ngarayeva001
MemberDecember 2, 2019 at 8:24 pm in reply to: suspension issue with sulfate free formula@chemfox, olefin sulfonate comes as powder (bio-terge AS90) and liquid (bio-terge AS40) with asm around 40%. I only used AS90 in a syndet so don’t know whether it will work for liquid product.
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Oil free is great as long as ‘natural’ isn’t an issue. Esters don’t have the word oil in the INCI.
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ngarayeva001
MemberDecember 1, 2019 at 7:21 pm in reply to: Safe Hyaluronic acid molecular weight in Skincare@Perry, I read a research paper that looked quite legitimate (at least it had citations and references) a while ago. According to that paper low weight sodium hyaluronate increased chances of scaring because it promoted inflammation. I don’t have an opinion about it because my knowledge of dermatology is limited and that paper was full of medical terms (explaining mechanism on cellular level). All I understood is that applying HA after using derma roller is a very bad idea. I will try to find it.
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Thank you @Pharma. it’s very useful information as I am always concerned about shelf life of my ingredients. Repackagers don’t really like to state that information on the bottles and you have to write emails or even call them to get that info. I only bother with some actives and preservatives.
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ngarayeva001
MemberDecember 1, 2019 at 8:19 am in reply to: Petrolatum (Petroleum Jelly), long term safety of topical application?Retinol shows drastic improvement. It removes acne (if any), makes pores look smaller, evens out skin tone, reduces ‘texture’ and I heard reduces fine lines but I don’t have them to comment on it. It comes with some problems of course but it feels to me that there’s no free cheese. Bakuchiol sounds a but too good to be true.
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Maybe what you call slippery is your own perception? People who got used to using alkaline soaps often don’t like the feel that remains after surfactants but it’s just a matter of a habit. There’s nothing wrong with your formula except for the fact that sodium benzoate isn’t a great choice for this type of product. It requires low pH (and pH of surfactant products might shift with time) and you need to supplement it with another preservative.
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A random question to the experts: why the majority of commercial micellar waters have poloxamers (or PEG-6 C/C glycerides) as main surfactants? The first ones are less gentle on eyes and the latter is extremely bitter (it maters when you use it to remove lipstick). There are wonderful and cheap polysorbates without above listed issues and they cleanse well. What’s the deal with polaxomers?
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 30, 2019 at 4:28 am in reply to: Working back a product (product to formula) (copycatting)I find it much easier than creating something new. This is how I learned formulating. I just copy existing products. I only choose those ones for which I can find all important ingredients (I ignore fairy dust obviously). When I reverse engineer Chanel’s moisturizer I know it won’t separate because they have already tested it. I know that preservatives are appropriate for the ingredients used. Properly written LOI is 70% of the job. It just requires a lot of time and patience.
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If you are asking about a general trend, oil free usually assumes the product (moisturizer?) is made with light dry-feel esters, rather than veg/synthetic oils. Could also be cyclomethicone (oil free foundation). It’s not scientific obviously.
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 29, 2019 at 12:51 pm in reply to: Petrolatum (Petroleum Jelly), long term safety of topical application?Not yet. Have been looking at it for a while but it’s outrageously expensive so I decided to go old fashioned way.
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 29, 2019 at 11:10 am in reply to: Petrolatum (Petroleum Jelly), long term safety of topical application?I am using retinol now, and my skin is extremely dry, so I made 10% (total oil please 2%) petrolatum moisturizer for night. It’s quite heavy.
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 29, 2019 at 11:08 am in reply to: Petrolatum (Petroleum Jelly), long term safety of topical application?It’s very individual for everyone and most people would say I am wasting petrolatum here but I use up to 7% for night cream and 3-4% for day. It heavily depends on other ingredients and for example adding octyldodecanol ‘tames’ petrolatum (although a friend of mine who has much more experience than I do is of opinion that instead of taming petrolatum I should just use less) and you can add more. It’s one of my favorite ingredients and I think if you use it right it’s less greasy than many veg oils.
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Hydroquinone isn’t easy to stabilise. If you don’t know what you are doing it will start oxidizing within a week. I know a couple of suppliers who sell HQ but have not heard of this one.
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 28, 2019 at 7:23 pm in reply to: Working back a product (product to formula) (copycatting)What you are looking for is called product reverse engineering and you don’t even have to be a chemist to copy an existing product. La Mer soft cream isn’t hard to reverse engineer. I have not tried to copy the original version because it’s too greasy.
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 28, 2019 at 2:59 pm in reply to: GEL network for a “bodylotion” for my horse?And what’s wrong with synthetic?
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I know it’s not useful but these watersoluble silicones only add to soaping because they have emulsification properties. I have just received my PEG-12 dimethicone but have similar experience with peg-8 dimethicone.
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Have you tried picking up a couple of popular products in a store and checking out a list of ingredients at all?
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It’s quite interesting actually. I often hear people saying they have high porosity hair, sensitive skin, dry skin (when it’s actually dehydrated by using aggressive products) and allergies that are self diagnosed. None can explain how they came to this conclusion.
Damaged hair love cationic ingredients and silicones, but type of cationics and silicones depends of type of hair. -
ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 23, 2019 at 1:39 pm in reply to: Petrolatum (Petroleum Jelly), long term safety of topical application?Wouldn’t it separate or you add TEA too? I am very new to such products but find them fascinating.
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 23, 2019 at 8:57 am in reply to: Petrolatum (Petroleum Jelly), long term safety of topical application?A friend of mine shared Cosmeticsandskin link with me last Friday and I have been binge reading it since then. I even made my own cold cream based on the formula I found in Happi. I actually replaced 30% 30% of 35%) of mineral oil with petrolatum (because there’s no such thing as too much of petrolatum jk) and this stuff can dissolve waterproof mascara!
I don’t have ceresin, I replaced it with ozokerite. And same with behenic acid, swapped to stearic. Still works. Such a cool vintage thing -
ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 22, 2019 at 9:09 pm in reply to: Where can I find this rare ingredient? Please help!@EVchem, I totally agree. I only saw it in balms: https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/peg-10-isostearate
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 22, 2019 at 3:49 pm in reply to: Where can I find this rare ingredient? Please help!Total surfactants should be close to 20 to get more or less good rinse off. That’s what I figured for balms. You need less for cleansing oils.
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ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 22, 2019 at 6:50 am in reply to: Good alternatives for Cyclohexasiloxane and Dycarprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol CC)I can’t comment on cetiol but cyclomethicone is very easy to find. It’s even sold on Amazon! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5HJRN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pr41Db1E4PJR2
This one is mostly D5 but you won’t be able to notice any difference between D5 and D6 in a moisturise. -
ngarayeva001
MemberNovember 20, 2019 at 11:30 pm in reply to: Where can I find this rare ingredient? Please help!Thank you, but ulprospector only sends samples to companies who can prove that they are not dormant and can provide recently issued invoice. I believe that the question is about a repacker who is willing to sell amounts around one kg. I spent some time looking for it myself and don’t think it’s sold anywhere. So it would be great to know whether there’s a good replacement.