Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Cosmetic Industry Resources Where can I find this rare ingredient? Please help!

  • Where can I find this rare ingredient? Please help!

    Posted by essenceofllama on November 20, 2019 at 7:57 pm

    Hello! First, some background to my question: I’m working on my first formulation. I’m creating an oil-based cleanser that’s fragrance and essential oil-free, non-comedogenic, non-stripping/drying, removes makeup and sunscreen, washes away cleanly, and doesn’t leave a tight feeling behind on my skin. It’s a big ask, but I’m up for the challenge. So far, I’ve found one product on the market that meets all but one of these requirements: Botanic Farm Grain Ferment Cleansing Sherbet (unfortunately, it’s not fragrance-free, which is a big deal for my very reactive/rosacea-prone skin). I strongly feel the other requirements will be made or broken by the emulsifiers.

    Since this is my first attempt at formulating, I want to go simple with it: I only want to combine Rice Bran, Hemp Seed, and Red Raspberry Seed oils with the two emulsifiers from the Botanic Farm cleanser (PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate and PEG-10 isostearate) to make an oil to milk cleanser. Note: I am not currently asking for formulation help, as I haven’t even attempted to make this yet. Also, the texture does not have to be a balm/sherbet - I’m happy with a liquid formula. 

    With help from ngarayeva001, I have a supplier for the PEG-20 (The Formulary and Glamour Cosmetics), but neither of us has been able to find a supplier for the PEG-10 isostearate. To me, it seems like the difficulty comes in the rarity of the raw material; I can only find 2 producers/3 products on the market:

    1. Nikkol MYS-10
    2. Nikkol MYS-10V
    3. Radiasurf 7473

    On to my question: Does anyone have a resource for a supplier of this material? I am located in the US, so ability to ship to the US would be ideal. I would prefer to purchase retail quantities as well.

    Follow-up question: If this raw material is actually impossible to source, does anyone have suggestions for potential material substitutions?

    Thank you so much!

    ngarayeva001 replied 4 years, 6 months ago 6 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 20, 2019 at 8:23 pm

    To add to the above, I attempted to reverse engineer a very similar korean balm (banila clean it zero) multiple times with almost identical LOI. I have all ingredients but PEG-10 mentioned above and apparently it’s the most important ingredient in this product. I would also appreciate if anyone knows a good replacement for it because I don’t believe it can be found at repackers marker.

  • chickenskin

    Member
    November 20, 2019 at 10:55 pm
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 20, 2019 at 11:30 pm

    Thank you, but ulprospector only sends samples to companies who can prove that they are not dormant and can provide recently issued invoice. I believe that the question is about a repacker who is willing to sell amounts around one kg. I spent some time looking for it myself and don’t think it’s sold anywhere. So it would be great to know whether there’s a good replacement. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 21, 2019 at 1:49 am

    I don’t have an answer for this but you might try either http://knowde.com  or http://chemberry.com  They are less strict about sampling the UL Prospector.

  • essenceofllama

    Member
    November 21, 2019 at 3:04 am

    Thank you @chickenskin! I’ll look into sourcing that material as an alternative.

    Great resources @Perry! I’ll follow up on those and see what I can get.

  • LincsChemist

    Member
    November 21, 2019 at 3:03 pm

    I’ve had success making an oil-to-milk with the PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate on its own, so you may not need the PEG-10 at all

  • essenceofllama

    Member
    November 21, 2019 at 11:31 pm

    @LincsChemist, I think that’s going to be my first attempt for sure. What % of PEG-20 did you use? I was thinking I’d start with 15%.

  • LincsChemist

    Member
    November 22, 2019 at 9:02 am

    @essenceofllama I used 10% - it’s pretty mild though, so I’d think you would get away with 15%

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 22, 2019 at 3:49 pm

    Total surfactants should be close to 20 to get more or less good rinse off. That’s what I figured for balms. You need less for cleansing oils.

  • essenceofllama

    Member
    November 22, 2019 at 3:56 pm

    @LincsChemist and @ngarayeva001 - Thank you both! I will begin testing formulas as soon as all of my materials arrive!

  • EVchem

    Member
    November 22, 2019 at 6:33 pm

    after I saw you both ( @essenceofllama  and @ngarayeva001 )  comment on it in another thread I also attempted to look for it. That ingredient is some kind of magical balm-only material, it’s also in the  farmacy green clean balm . I did find Nikkol which in my US location is distributed by KOBO but I only saw Peg-10 stearate not isostearate. 

    That Ethox product is PEG-9, not sure how much difference it makes. My current guess is it’s got to be from china.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 22, 2019 at 9:09 pm

    @EVchem, I totally agree. I only saw it in balms: https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/peg-10-isostearate

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