Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Reduce soaping in serum

  • Reduce soaping in serum

    Posted by EVchem on November 27, 2019 at 7:57 pm

    I’m using Poly Suga mulse D9 (Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer) in an HA serum at 1% to solubilize a little bit of scent but this stupid solubilizer is causing soaping. I  am trying to avoid using alcohol, so instead I tried PEG-12 Dimethicone and it is just not cutting it even at 5%. Is there anything else that is label friendly that can reduce soaping in a clear aqueous product. 

    I can definitely post the formula if that helps

    EVchem replied 4 years, 3 months ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    November 28, 2019 at 7:54 am

    I know it’s not useful but these watersoluble silicones only add to soaping because they have emulsification properties. I have just received my PEG-12 dimethicone but have similar experience with peg-8 dimethicone.

  • gunther

    November 28, 2019 at 11:41 pm

    Plain dimethicone can reduce soaping quite a bit.
    If you already have PEG-12 dimethicone, then plain dimethicone is just as “label unfriendly” to scaremongers. But most people don’t even care about dimethicone. They don’t even know what it is.

    Glycerin can also reduce soaping a bit. But too much can make it feel sticky.

  • EVchem

    November 29, 2019 at 1:43 pm

    @ngarayeva001 hey that is useful, I was pretty sure it wouldn’t perform as well as dimethicone but i hoped it would  have at least a smaller scale effect. Good to know it’s not worth keeping in the formula.

    @Gunther Yeah dimethicone would be perfect but then I have to emulsify even more material and I think that would also impede product clarity.   I imagine the PEG-12 dimethicone must be viewed as the antichrist by the scaremongers, it’s a perfect package of ingredients that they love to hate on.  I mean label-friendly as in not  commercial antifoaming blends really. 

    I think the fact I’m using some xanthan gum to build viscosity is also contributing to the soaping. I’ll try to knock that out and see if it helps. Do either of you think polysorbate 20 would have less of an effect than Poly Suga Mulse? Client  isn’t picky about ingredients, I’m just trying to keep the client’s clients in mind (but maybe that is too far down the rabbit hole to concern myself with).

  • gunther

    November 29, 2019 at 9:08 pm

    Is that really soaping?
    It might be the white fatty alcohols taking some time to disappear.

  • EVchem

    December 2, 2019 at 1:39 pm

    @Gunther no FA here it’s aqueous  so really mostly HA powder, humectants, niacinamide. I ended up switching to PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil as a solubilizer and it’s doing much better, but there is still  a very slight soaping (at least that’s what I think it is as it shows up only after some excessive rubbing) 

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