ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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By the way, get disteardimonium hectorite and polyhydroxystearic acid anyway. They make a difference.
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https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/gc-base-bb-cream-creamy-nude
https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/gc-base-bb-cream-warm-beigehttps://www.manischemicals.com/en/inorganic-colors-oxides/1826-2962-creasperse-bb-vs-30gr.html#/736-color-light_fair_beige (they also have dyes and other colours)
More expensive and tricky option:
https://trulux.com.au/kobo-mt-500b-nje5/
https://trulux.com.au/kobo-black-fand60bsi/
https://trulux.com.au/kobo-red-fand55rsi/
https://trulux.com.au/kobo-yellow-fand45ysi/Or, if you feel adventurous and really want to make it from scratch, get coated! pigments from glamourcosmetics or tkb trading, disperse in something like hydrogenated polyisobutene, add polyhydroxystearic acid and disteardimonium (low polarity oils)/stearalkonium (high polarity) hectorite and hope for the best. Been there, tried it is better than uncoated but not on the same level as a premade blend. I strongly advise against it.
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I spent a lot of time and money to come to the conclusion that it’s a terrible idea. You will not be able to do it in a small lab setting unless you are happy to spend a lot! on equipment. You have two options: 1) Buy coated and pre-dispersed TiO2 and Iron oxides separately 2) Buy coated and predisperced blend for foundations. The innovation company has the creasperce range.
https://theinnovationcompany.fr/products/creasperse-bb/Their MOQ is 5kg but I know two repackagers in the EU where they sell smaller amounts if you need it. I only buy them for my own use, and what I end up doing is buying two neutral colours (light and dark) and mixing them to colour match.
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Oil-free is a marketing term. What they usually mean by this is “free of standard vegetable oils”. Those products often include lightweight silicones (D5 for example) or esters (like in this product). What bothers me more is that they called PEG-100 stearate a thickener
Is “emulsifier” a new swear word? -
@AnnaUnce, I think you might be overcomplicating it. To get 5% of active out of 70% solution you simply divide 0.05 to 0.7. To get 10% out of 80% solution you divide 0.1 to 0.8.
x*concentration of your solution = % of the active ingredient in the formula.
x*0.7=0.05
x=0.05/0.7 = 7.14% of 70% solution is needed to achieve 5% concentration of active ingredient in the formula.Put it in MS Excel for simplicity.
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Agree with 2% dimethicone
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This one is very versatile https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Polyisobutene-250_p_105.html
I saw it sold by some diy suppliers as ‘synthetic squalane’. I don’t know whether it’s correct that from chemistry standpoint but both are hydrocarbons and I find the feel rather similar. It’s great in color cosmetics, lipbalms and any emulsions/products where you need a low polarity emollient. And as a huge benefit, it doesn’t oxidize. -
For some reason I don’t like how mineral oil feels and use hydrogenated polyisobutene (it comes in different viscosites) when I need a liquid hydrocarbon. It’s similar to squalane, so you might want to explore it too. Although it’s unreasonably expensive.
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This material is pretty nice although it’s considered a replacement for lard rather than petrolatum https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/25251/557991/SOFTISAN-378 also sold by MakingCosmetics if you are buying in small quantities. It’s used in lipbalms and moisturizers for very dry skin (like this one https://incidecoder.com/products/clinique-smart-night-custom-repair-moisturizer-very-dry-to-dry-skin). Having said that, petrolatum is a gold standard and I have not seen a single study suggesting there’s anything better than petrolatum. Also petrolatum is cheaper than any alternatives and easy to find. Btw silicones are not great at reducing TEWL, as they aren’t very occlusive.
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Why dimethicone is ok but petrolatum isn’t? Anyway, you might find this thread useful
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1021/petrolatum-replacement-the-best-natural-ingredient-to-use -
Many o/w formulas contain waxes and waxy emulsifier which often melt at 65-80 C. Maybe that’s where 70C came from?
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Boiling water wouldn’t hurt. You can wait until it cools down and use it in cold process formula. I use steam distilled water which I buy in 5lt containers. It’s not sterile to begin with (although food grade) but the moment that container is opened it’s not as clean as it was. And since it takes me around a month to use that container I boil it each time after the first use. I noticed that erlenmeyer flasks work pretty well for this purpose. Water heats faster than in a beaker and it partially traps the vapor.
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Viscosity of w/o emulsions doesn’t depend on whether emulsifier is liquid or solid. It’s possible to achieve drastically different viscosity with the same emulsifier. % of water for example can have an impact on viscosity. You will be able to get more help if you post the formula and explain what is the issue with it.
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They are pretty much identical and both are GRAS. One is made of petrochemicals another of corn which makes claims difference. I prefer PG, it’s cheaper.
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X*.7=.05
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I am not suggesting it’s the best option on the market but it’s powerful and has smaller size head which allows making small batches (150g). I managed to make several w/si and w/o that haven’t separated for over 12 months (which doesn’t prove those are stable on a commercial level but for w/o it’s almost a success). It can deal with high viscosity if you keep the batch size within 300g.
https://www.robertdyas.co.uk/bosch-msm2623ggb-clevermixx-dip-&-dressing-600w-hand-blender-white-&-green?source=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs4PNwuOB7QIVwdPtCh01LAuuEAQYBiABEgLML_D_BwE -
Pharma said:I decided against stick blenders when I stumbled upon that crap cheap Ultra-Turrax-like Chinese knock-off thingamajig. I ordered it a few days ago.I wonder whether or not it will be any good or last long… likely not useful for more than 1 litre but that’s fine with me and probably not doing well with high viscosity emulsions (not so fine with me).I’ll keep you in the loop.
@@Pharma, please let us know if it works. It looks very tempting re price. I am just concerned it won’t be able to deal with 500g batch of any significant viscosity (anything thicker than ketchup). I have cheap Chinese overhead stirrer which isn’t great but does the job for w/o processing (the initial step when water is added by drops at low shear) but I am still using a stick blender for high shear because I can’t find any reasonable alternative.
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It’s part of phenonip, which is probably the most bulletproof preservative sold on the DIY market. I really hope it won’t be banned…
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I have been using Niacinamide for a while. There are some studies behind it, but none suggests using 10% let alone 20%. As per my anecdotal experience, it reduces the visibility of pores but don’t expect any wow effect. As for its effectiveness as a skin lightening agent (when used with NAG), I haven’t noticed any difference. Again personal perception isn’t a reliable source of data. My main reason why I use it is that it’s very easy to formulate with (dissolves easily, doesn’t interact with other ingredients, doesn’t change the odour, or colour) and it’s cheap.
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Optiphen plus is much better option than phenoxyethanol alone. It might impact transparency though. You also need to pay attention to ph as sorbic acid needs to be below 6.
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Can you use formaldehyde releasers? Germall Plus is a great option. It will not cause cloudiness unlike many other preservatives. Re hydrosol, ideally you want none of it and as little aloe and cucumber as possible. Flower waters are source of contamination. It’s hard to preserve them (as well as plant extracts). So if you want your product to last and be safe you either need to rethink how you will achieve the right smell or add a strong preservative (formaldehyde releasers or parabens or both)
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Acids cause actual irritation (and damage if overdone), none of those anti-irritation ingredients are ‘strong’ enough to undo it. In fact I have not seen serious scientific backup for any of anti-irritation ingredients. Bisabolol has somewhat reasonably looking study behind it, but the sampling size wasn’t impressive. Bottom line, they don’t work.
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Is your question why wouldn’t we add ‘aloe vera’ to SA toner to tame its irritancy properties?
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I have just noticed it’s 78% hydrosol! Very likely contamination.
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It could be bacterial contamination. Your product isn’t sufficiently preserved. Phenoxyethanol is not a broad spectrum preservative, it doesn’t cover mold. You also don’t have enough of it provided presence of bug food extracts.