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Occlusive Recommendations for Longer Lasting Moisturization
Hi,
I’m looking to make my facial emulsions provide longer lasting moisturization. I already use some plant butters but because they are used in small concentrations I feel like the moisturization doesn’t last as long as I would like. I also already use Dimethicone in small concentrations.
I’m not interested in using petrolatum or mineral oil.
I was considering using tiny concentrations of beeswax or other waxes….does anyone have any thoughts on this? Lotioncrafter sells Rice Bran Wax which looks interesting (I’m a huge fan of Rice Bran Oil.) I don’t want a waxy texture obviously so, again, the wax would be used in small concentrations.
I came across a product called Brassica Campestris Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer. It’s advertised as an emollient occlusive. Does anyone have thoughts on this?
Any suggestions for occlusive plant oils?
Please let me know if you have any other ideas. Thank you so much.
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13 Replies
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Why dimethicone is ok but petrolatum isn’t? Anyway, you might find this thread useful
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1021/petrolatum-replacement-the-best-natural-ingredient-to-use -
ngarayeva001 said:Why dimethicone is ok but petrolatum isn’t? Anyway, you might find this thread useful
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1021/petrolatum-replacement-the-best-natural-ingredient-to-useI just don’t like how it feels. I’m not a natural formulator. Thanks for the link.
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Tridecyl Trimellitate + Isostearyl Isostearate
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Pattsi said:Tridecyl Trimellitate + Isostearyl Isostearate
Not sure about the first one but I think I’ve seen isostearyl isostearate around, will check it out, thank you!
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This material is pretty nice although it’s considered a replacement for lard rather than petrolatum https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/25251/557991/SOFTISAN-378 also sold by MakingCosmetics if you are buying in small quantities. It’s used in lipbalms and moisturizers for very dry skin (like this one https://incidecoder.com/products/clinique-smart-night-custom-repair-moisturizer-very-dry-to-dry-skin). Having said that, petrolatum is a gold standard and I have not seen a single study suggesting there’s anything better than petrolatum. Also petrolatum is cheaper than any alternatives and easy to find. Btw silicones are not great at reducing TEWL, as they aren’t very occlusive.
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For some reason I don’t like how mineral oil feels and use hydrogenated polyisobutene (it comes in different viscosites) when I need a liquid hydrocarbon. It’s similar to squalane, so you might want to explore it too. Although it’s unreasonably expensive.
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emma1985 said:Lotioncrafter sells Rice Bran Wax which looks interesting (I’m a huge fan of Rice Bran Oil.) I don’t want a waxy texture obviously so, again, the wax would be used in small concentrations.
Rice bran wax is reasonably nice to work with. I would describe it as reasonably waxy, but as you mention it’s a co-formulant so you might not get much waxiness if used in smaller quantities.
It’s, in my experience, less ‘tacky’ than beeswax, so that might suffice. I don’t know how occlusive it is, but obviously that would depend on loading, and goes back to point (a) that more used = waxier.Looking into the Brassica (etc) copolymer you mentioned, there’s mention of lecithin being a comparable substitute. They both appear, as liquids, to be slow absorbers so I don’t know how it’d feel on the face as a moisturiser.
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ngarayeva001 said:This material is pretty nice although it’s considered a replacement for lard rather than petrolatum https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/25251/557991/SOFTISAN-378 also sold by MakingCosmetics if you are buying in small quantities. It’s used in lipbalms and moisturizers for very dry skin (like this one https://incidecoder.com/products/clinique-smart-night-custom-repair-moisturizer-very-dry-to-dry-skin). Having said that, petrolatum is a gold standard and I have not seen a single study suggesting there’s anything better than petrolatum. Also petrolatum is cheaper than any alternatives and easy to find. Btw silicones are not great at reducing TEWL, as they aren’t very occlusive.
I actually have Softisan. I purchased from FSS as it was advertised as an ingredient that could prevent graininess (i love Shea Butter, Mango Butter and Tucuma butter but struggle with graininess when formulating with them.) I will absolutely try this next week, thank you so much!!
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ngarayeva001 said:For some reason I don’t like how mineral oil feels and use hydrogenated polyisobutene (it comes in different viscosites) when I need a liquid hydrocarbon. It’s similar to squalane, so you might want to explore it too. Although it’s unreasonably expensive.
I love Squalene and Hemi Squalane but find (Squalene, especially) to be ridiculously expensive. I did come across hydrogenated polyisobutene yesterday when I was perusing Making Cosmetics. I see hydrogenated polyisobutene ALL THE TIME on commercial ingredients lists. Will definitely pick some up. Thanks again!!
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This one is very versatile https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Polyisobutene-250_p_105.html
I saw it sold by some diy suppliers as ‘synthetic squalane’. I don’t know whether it’s correct that from chemistry standpoint but both are hydrocarbons and I find the feel rather similar. It’s great in color cosmetics, lipbalms and any emulsions/products where you need a low polarity emollient. And as a huge benefit, it doesn’t oxidize. -
cocoa and shea butter
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emma1985 said:Hi,
I’m looking to make my facial emulsions provide longer lasting moisturization. I already use some plant butters but because they are used in small concentrations I feel like the moisturization doesn’t last as long as I would like. I also already use Dimethicone in small concentrations.
I’m not interested in using petrolatum or mineral oil.
I was considering using tiny concentrations of beeswax or other waxes….does anyone have any thoughts on this? Lotioncrafter sells Rice Bran Wax which looks interesting (I’m a huge fan of Rice Bran Oil.) I don’t want a waxy texture obviously so, again, the wax would be used in small concentrations.
I came across a product called Brassica Campestris Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer. It’s advertised as an emollient occlusive. Does anyone have thoughts on this?
Any suggestions for occlusive plant oils?
Please let me know if you have any other ideas. Thank you so much.
How long do you expect your moisturizer’s occlusive-ness to last?
4-6hrs, 6-12hrs, 12-24hrs
Rice bran wax is nice. How about Jojoba?
Don’t know how small you will be using so don’t know you will get what you r aiming for or not. -
I don’t think liquid emollients would be very occlusive, perhaps you can consider butters, waxes, silicone crosspolymers, sterols, lanolin? Normally an ingredient that comes as a soft paste or harder texture would be perhaps more occlusive.
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