Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Occlusive Recommendations for Longer Lasting Moisturization

  • Occlusive Recommendations for Longer Lasting Moisturization

    Posted by emma1985 on November 15, 2020 at 9:29 pm

    Hi, 

    I’m looking to make my facial emulsions provide longer lasting moisturization. I already use some plant butters but because they are used in small concentrations I feel like the moisturization doesn’t last as long as I would like. I also already use Dimethicone in small concentrations. 

    I’m not interested in using petrolatum or mineral oil.

    I was considering using tiny concentrations of beeswax or other waxes….does anyone have any thoughts on this? Lotioncrafter sells Rice Bran Wax which looks interesting (I’m a huge fan of Rice Bran Oil.) I don’t want a waxy texture obviously so, again, the wax would be used in small concentrations. 

    I came across a product called Brassica Campestris Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer. It’s advertised as an emollient occlusive. Does anyone have thoughts on this?

    Any suggestions for occlusive plant oils? 

    Please let me know if you have any other ideas. Thank you so much. 

    jemolian replied 3 years, 3 months ago 6 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 15, 2020 at 11:54 pm

    Why dimethicone is ok but petrolatum isn’t? Anyway, you might find this thread useful 
    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1021/petrolatum-replacement-the-best-natural-ingredient-to-use

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 2:02 am

    Why dimethicone is ok but petrolatum isn’t? Anyway, you might find this thread useful 
    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1021/petrolatum-replacement-the-best-natural-ingredient-to-use

    I just don’t like how it feels. I’m not a natural formulator. Thanks for the link. 

  • pattsi

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 6:07 am

    Tridecyl Trimellitate + Isostearyl Isostearate

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 6:13 am

    Pattsi said:

    Tridecyl Trimellitate + Isostearyl Isostearate

    Not sure about the first one but I think I’ve seen isostearyl isostearate around, will check it out, thank you! 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 7:58 am

    This material is pretty nice although it’s considered a replacement for lard rather than petrolatum https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/25251/557991/SOFTISAN-378 also sold by MakingCosmetics if you are buying in small quantities. It’s used in lipbalms and moisturizers for very dry skin (like this one https://incidecoder.com/products/clinique-smart-night-custom-repair-moisturizer-very-dry-to-dry-skin). Having said that, petrolatum is a gold standard and I have not seen a single study suggesting there’s anything better than petrolatum. Also petrolatum is cheaper than any alternatives and easy to find. Btw silicones are not great at reducing TEWL, as they aren’t very occlusive. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 8:04 am

    For some reason I don’t like how mineral oil feels and use hydrogenated polyisobutene (it comes in different viscosites) when I need a liquid hydrocarbon. It’s similar to squalane, so you might want to explore it too. Although it’s unreasonably expensive.

  • Benz3ne

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 9:50 am

    emma1985 said:

    Lotioncrafter sells Rice Bran Wax which looks interesting (I’m a huge fan of Rice Bran Oil.) I don’t want a waxy texture obviously so, again, the wax would be used in small concentrations. 

    Rice bran wax is reasonably nice to work with. I would describe it as reasonably waxy, but as you mention it’s a co-formulant so you might not get much waxiness if used in smaller quantities. 
    It’s, in my experience, less ‘tacky’ than beeswax, so that might suffice. I don’t know how occlusive it is, but obviously that would depend on loading, and goes back to point (a) that more used = waxier. 

    Looking into the Brassica (etc) copolymer you mentioned, there’s mention of lecithin being a comparable substitute. They both appear, as liquids, to be slow absorbers so I don’t know how it’d feel on the face as a moisturiser. 

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 1:24 pm

    This material is pretty nice although it’s considered a replacement for lard rather than petrolatum https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/25251/557991/SOFTISAN-378 also sold by MakingCosmetics if you are buying in small quantities. It’s used in lipbalms and moisturizers for very dry skin (like this one https://incidecoder.com/products/clinique-smart-night-custom-repair-moisturizer-very-dry-to-dry-skin). Having said that, petrolatum is a gold standard and I have not seen a single study suggesting there’s anything better than petrolatum. Also petrolatum is cheaper than any alternatives and easy to find. Btw silicones are not great at reducing TEWL, as they aren’t very occlusive. 

    I actually have Softisan. I purchased from FSS as it was advertised as an ingredient that could prevent graininess (i love Shea Butter, Mango Butter and Tucuma butter but struggle with graininess when formulating with them.) I will absolutely try this next week, thank you so much!! 

  • emma1985

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 1:25 pm

    For some reason I don’t like how mineral oil feels and use hydrogenated polyisobutene (it comes in different viscosites) when I need a liquid hydrocarbon. It’s similar to squalane, so you might want to explore it too. Although it’s unreasonably expensive.

    I love Squalene and Hemi Squalane but find (Squalene, especially) to be ridiculously expensive. I did come across hydrogenated polyisobutene yesterday when I was perusing Making Cosmetics. I see hydrogenated polyisobutene ALL THE TIME on commercial ingredients lists. Will definitely pick some up. Thanks again!! 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 16, 2020 at 10:25 pm

    This one is very versatile https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Polyisobutene-250_p_105.html 
    I saw it sold by some diy suppliers as ‘synthetic squalane’. I don’t know whether it’s correct that from chemistry standpoint but both are hydrocarbons and I find the feel rather similar. It’s great in color cosmetics, lipbalms and any emulsions/products where you need a low polarity emollient. And as a huge benefit, it doesn’t oxidize. 

  • biofm

    Member
    November 17, 2020 at 2:30 am

    cocoa and shea butter

  • pattsi

    Member
    November 17, 2020 at 7:15 am

    emma1985 said:

    Hi, 

    I’m looking to make my facial emulsions provide longer lasting moisturization. I already use some plant butters but because they are used in small concentrations I feel like the moisturization doesn’t last as long as I would like. I also already use Dimethicone in small concentrations. 

    I’m not interested in using petrolatum or mineral oil.

    I was considering using tiny concentrations of beeswax or other waxes….does anyone have any thoughts on this? Lotioncrafter sells Rice Bran Wax which looks interesting (I’m a huge fan of Rice Bran Oil.) I don’t want a waxy texture obviously so, again, the wax would be used in small concentrations. 

    I came across a product called Brassica Campestris Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer. It’s advertised as an emollient occlusive. Does anyone have thoughts on this?

    Any suggestions for occlusive plant oils? 

    Please let me know if you have any other ideas. Thank you so much. 

    How long do you expect your moisturizer’s occlusive-ness to last?
    4-6hrs, 6-12hrs, 12-24hrs
    Rice bran wax is nice. How about Jojoba?
    Don’t know how small you will be using so don’t know you will get what you r aiming for or not.

  • jemolian

    Member
    November 17, 2020 at 9:03 am

    I don’t think liquid emollients would be very occlusive, perhaps you can consider butters, waxes, silicone crosspolymers, sterols, lanolin? Normally an ingredient that comes as a soft paste or harder texture would be perhaps more occlusive.

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