

ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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tianaloveorganics said:Graillotion said:Not sure what you’re making….but other than water…most formulas never hit the 5% range (other than an oil or the likes)… Some ingredients will seriously damage you at 5%.
I’m making a “hair growth oil” and what do u mean by “Some ingredients will seriously damage you at 5%.”
Some ingredients are more than effective at tiny %. You don’t need more 0.2% of EDTA or 0.05% of BHA (or BHT). Ingredients like retinol can cause serious damage at 5%
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Butylene Glycol is more versatile because it can be used as a solvent and less tacky than glycerin. It also a preservative booster. Sodium Lactate has a downside of being a strong electrolyte, so acrylic acid based polymeric thickeners and emulsifiers aren’t an option.
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ngarayeva001
MemberJuly 3, 2021 at 11:02 pm in reply to: To everyone who makes this forum what it is, thank you!I want to thank the regular members of this forum too. I knew near to nothing when I have just joined
And a reminder to a new joiners, the archive of chemistcorner is treasure.
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Definitely remove CTAC. Try PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, methyl gluceth-10 blend, PEG-150 distearate or crothix liquid.
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These surfactants are nearly impossible to thicken. Even crothix won’t work with cocoyl glutamate. Your only option is gums.
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1) All those oils aren’t necessary
2) Iron oxide won’t give you jet black color. You need carbon black
3) A bit preservative is a bad idea. You need to think through your preservation system very very carefully when it comes to anything that’s in close contact with eyes. Mascara is a product prone to contamination. -
Dimethicone 5, 100, 350, 500 and 1000 are quite useable. 1.5 is used in makeup, but I am not sure if it’s used in emulsions.
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They stopped being called “Dimethicone” below 1.5 and are volatile. You can safely use Dimethicone 5 and above in the heated oil phase.
You should avoid heating:
- Cyclomethicones (D4, D5, D6)
- Phenyl Trimethicone
- Dimethicones below 1.5 (I think 0.65 is called Disiloxane)
Not silicones but also shouldn’t be heated:
- Isododecane
- Cetiol Ultimate (Undecane, Tridecane) -
ngarayeva001
MemberJune 19, 2021 at 11:17 pm in reply to: SHOULD HAIR GROWTH OILS HAVE PENETRATING INGREDIENTS???Which ingredient in this list makes hair grow?
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 17, 2021 at 10:52 pm in reply to: Best Gelling Agent for Lactic Acid Serum ❓If it’s just lactic acid without sodium lactate, then sepimax zen might work (subject to % of acid). Acids are weak electrolytes. Even Sepinov EMT can gel acid at a certain %. But if you have salts (sodium lactate) in the formula, none of acrylic acid based polymers (as per my knowledge) would work. Even Zen.
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I use combination of propylene glycol and ethoxydiglycol at around 30% combined. The latter has less sticky feel. And Polysorbate 20 as a surfactant.
May I please ask the function of sodium salt? -
Bring it up at least to 2% ASM.
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 16, 2021 at 6:21 am in reply to: The “No PFAS in Cosmetics Act” - looks like there’s a new villainCosmetics and Toiletries: Furthermore, the ingredient lists of most products tested did not disclose the presence of these fluorinated compounds. While this may be due to their being byproducts from manufacturing or degradation products, given that consumers are directly exposed to these materials, the authors expressed better regulations are necessary to limit the widespread use of PFAS in cosmetics.Yeah, looks like a new boogie man. It would be great to hear opinion of professional chemists.
Guys, I hope you don’t mind unsolicited tagging:)
@Perry, @PhilGeis, @Pharma, @Microformulation
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 16, 2021 at 5:52 am in reply to: The “No PFAS in Cosmetics Act” - looks like there’s a new villainThere are many red flags, EWG, saying that cosmetic companies add those compounds and ‘don’t disclose’, not specifying who exactly does it, using word ‘chemical’ multiple times in a negative way, etc. So I am guessing those could be impurities as result of manufacturing (thus not disclosing) that are present at negligible amounts not presenting health hazards. Or they completely pulled it out of .. blue sky.
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 15, 2021 at 9:18 pm in reply to: Best Gelling Agent for Lactic Acid Serum ❓If you are going to buffer it then none of polymers based on acrylic acid won’t work. I am not a big fan of xanthan but there are varieties that are less nasty than others. If cost isn’t an issue, the high molecular weight HA will do.
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@Cafe33, I think it’s because BHT has bad reputation. Funny enough it’s used in food, as well as BHA. Hidden under one of those E codes. Good antioxidants, I use both. Especially useful in formulations with retinol.
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In most cases viscosity will increase as you apply high shear btw. It’s quite fascinating how runny liquid turns into a thick cream. It also adds to stability because size of particles descrease.
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As you said, 1-1.5% of salt (check the supplier of your emulsifier as they recommend different salts for different emulsifiers), you must have some stabiliser in oil (or in your case silicone) phase. It can be magnesium stearate, zinc stearate, hydrogenated castor oil, or for cold process something like covasilic 15 or silica. Amount of water depends on emulsifier and it’s important to follow recommendations of the supplier. Abil EM90 for example doesn’t tolerate high oil phase although it sounds counterintuitive. Success highly depends on your emulsifier. I would say Dow Corning’s formulation aid 5225 is relatively easygoing one. Abil EM90 is very unpredictable (although I like it). DowSil ES 5600 is quite nice as well. DowSil ES 5300 has nicer texture but it separates relatively easily (or I couldn’t find my way around it yet). Also never use one emulsifier, pair it with some w/o emulsifier at a lower %. Say, if I am using 2-3% of ES 5600 I would throw 0.5-07% of Isolan GPS or Cithrol DPHS. Add water by drops and only after emulsion has formed apply high shear.
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 11, 2021 at 11:52 pm in reply to: Which are the bluest of the Essential oils?Is there a reason why you don’t want to use Blue 1 FD&C?
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 9, 2021 at 10:24 pm in reply to: Help me break this commercial formulation down, no idea what is going on with it. ???? Stumped@emma1985 I made a couple of makeup removers in this format. What worked pretty well is using non polar oil (in my case I used D5 and isododecane in another formula) and add 1-1.5% of NaCl to the waterphase. My water phase was rather simple (preservative, some basic humectants, salt and dye). You probably can do something similar just keep oil phase low. In makeup removers it’s close to 50/50. I saw surfactants in some of those formulas but in my experience they might partially emulsify and you will end up with cloudy product. Also type of bottle you use matters. Some types of plastic ‘catch’ droplets and it doesn’t look nice
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 9, 2021 at 10:12 pm in reply to: New Emulsifier or need for thickeners - help!!Regarding 2% of essential oils: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/4656/to-be-or-not-to-be-essential-oils-in-skincare#latest
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 9, 2021 at 10:10 pm in reply to: New Emulsifier or need for thickeners - help!!As natural as possible.. What is aloe gel made of?
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 9, 2021 at 6:33 am in reply to: What is a basic question about beauty products you want to know the answer to?@Perry, I use sunscreen religiously and apply it as recommended (half of teaspoon on face and neck), yet my face is MUCH darker than, say, my shoulders that aren’t exposed to the sun. And yes I apply it in winter every day and even at home in summer. I only use large brands like L’Oreal and always spf 50. So unfortunately, it tells me there’s no guarantee that it will slow down aging. But still doing it just in case.
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 7, 2021 at 12:30 pm in reply to: What is a basic question about beauty products you want to know the answer to?My basic question is why such an amazing humectant as urea isn’t very popular? Is it because it’s tricky to formulate with or marketing?
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ngarayeva001
MemberJune 6, 2021 at 11:13 pm in reply to: What is your favorite silicone elastomers / cross-linked polymersI can’t decide which is my favorite as I liked all that I tried, but I can certainly tell you which is used the most in commercial products -polysilicone-11. Unfortunately not sold by repackagers as per my knowledge.