Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup Parabens in Cosmetics

  • Parabens in Cosmetics

    Posted by saraahsan on June 11, 2021 at 9:03 am

    hi all

    i am making bullet lipsticks since two years. going very well but one issue my Lipstick expire within one year.

    i add vitamin e (pure tocopherol) so that oils in lipstick font go rancid. my clients are demanding more shelf life.

    i want to add parabens to extend shelf life can you people guide which parabens should be added in lipstick formula plus what percentage is required. 

    i started working on liquid matte lipstick as well and want to add parabens to extend shelf life.

    parabens are ok to use for my purpose or is there any other option i could use to extend shelf life at least 2-3 years ? 

    looking forward to hearing from you all. 

    saraahsan replied 1 year, 1 month ago 11 Members · 41 Replies
  • 41 Replies
  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 11, 2021 at 9:32 am

    @ngarayeva001
    @Doreen
    @Pharma

    can u people help here

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    June 11, 2021 at 10:46 am

    Parabens can offer a burning sensation in taste.  
    Are you sure you need a preservative?  Can you share your formula?

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 11, 2021 at 11:30 am

    PhilGeis said:

    Parabens can offer a burning sensation in taste.  
    Are you sure you need a preservative?  Can you share your formula?

    yes i just want to increase shelf life of my Lipsticks that is one year and my client asking for longer shelf life

    my formula is based on some waxes and castor oil plus caprylic capric. woth some texture powders .. in end i add antioxidant as well so that oil dont go rancid soon.  my Lipsticks goes well for one year but after that they start giving rancid smell. i just want to increase shelf life. is there any other way to increase shelf life at least 2-3 years
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    June 11, 2021 at 12:11 pm

    How much water?  Have you seen any mold or other microbial contamination?

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 11, 2021 at 5:54 pm

    PhilGeis said:

    How much water?  Have you seen any mold or other microbial contamination?

    my Lipsticks are water free. but after one year they start smells rancid my clients want more shelf life. at least 2-3 years 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    June 11, 2021 at 10:20 pm

    Parabens will do nothing for oxidation.  Unless you;ve seen or cultured microbial contamination, a preservative is piob not necessary.    Look at labels of similar products.

  • graillotion

    Member
    June 11, 2021 at 10:31 pm

    saraahsan said:

    PhilGeis said:

    How much water?  Have you seen any mold or other microbial contamination?

    my Lipsticks are water free. but after one year they start smells rancid my clients want more shelf life. at least 2-3 years 

    Sounds like you are trying to preserve your oils… You are barking up the wrong tree with parabens…. You need to be looking at antioxidents.

    ROE / E / Bisabolol / Oil soluable C….etc..etc.

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 12, 2021 at 12:18 pm

    saraahsan said:

    PhilGeis said:

    How much water?  Have you seen any mold or other microbial contamination?

    my Lipsticks are water free. but after one year they start smells rancid my clients want more shelf life. at least 2-3 years 

    Sounds like you are trying to preserve your oils… You are barking up the wrong tree with parabens…. You need to be looking at antioxidents.

    ROE / E / Bisabolol / Oil soluable C….etc..etc.

    i am adding vitamin e t-50 for oxidation but they smells rancid after one year. my point is how to resolve this issue so that my Lipsticks stay longer at least 2-3 years 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    June 13, 2021 at 4:38 pm

    The culture the product - find if a microorganism also contaminating.

  • Cafe33

    Member
    June 13, 2021 at 5:58 pm

    Is there a reason some people seem to be opposed to BHT as an antioxidant? I never see it recommended.

  • Cinema

    Member
    June 13, 2021 at 6:26 pm

    I am not into lipsticks and all- but just a thought- maybe switch oils / butters to the kind with a longer shelf life maybe or replace aome with eaters- along with all the other maneuvers 

  • paprik

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 12:53 am

    How much of the Tocopherol are using? And what type? 
    I believe it’s a hot fill/pour, which will already oxidase some of the vit E, so you need to increase the input. 

    Please share the formula so we can take a look properly. 

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 11:48 am

    Cinema said:

    I am not into lipsticks and all- but just a thought- maybe switch oils / butters to the kind with a longer shelf life maybe or replace aome with eaters- along with all the other maneuvers 

    i am adding castor oil plus caprylic capric 

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 11:50 am

    Paprik said:

    How much of the Tocopherol are using? And what type? 
    I believe it’s a hot fill/pour, which will already oxidase some of the vit E, so you need to increase the input. 

    Please share the formula so we can take a look properly. 

    i am adding 1% tocopherol t-50 vitamin e  

  • raiyana

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 12:14 pm

    I dont make lipsticks, but i do make diy cleansing balms and cleansing oil for my friends and family. Water free formula.

    I used to have issues like this but now my cleansing balms dont go rancid as fast. The one i made 2 years ago still smell okay.

    What i did, i changed most of my plant oils to synthetic ingredients. The products mostly made of:
    Caprylic capric triglyceride
    Mineral oil
    C12-15 Alkyl benzoate
    Isododecane
    Some sunflower oil and castor oil
    Other plant oils (i limit to 1% max)
    BHT as antioxadant at 0.1%
    Fragrance and essential oils (max 0.05%)
    For natural wax, i only use white beeswax

    I dont use preservatives as long as the product is kept away from water and stored properly (not in the bathroom!) Never had any mold. But my “clients” are just friends and family and i always remind them to keep the products dry.

  • Cinema

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 4:26 pm

    saraahsan said:

    Cinema said:

    I am not into lipsticks and all- but just a thought- maybe switch oils / butters to the kind with a longer shelf life maybe or replace aome with eaters- along with all the other maneuvers 

    i am adding castor oil plus caprylic capric 

    castor oil has a shorter shelf life that most of plant butters- most of them being in the 2 years range as acompared to 1 year for the castor oil- 2 years if hydrogenated- other options are softisan 378 (fantastic for lipsticks) has a shelf life of 3 years and is soft solid at room temp

  • paprik

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 6:55 pm

    Cinema said:

    saraahsan said:

    Cinema said:

    I am not into lipsticks and all- but just a thought- maybe switch oils / butters to the kind with a longer shelf life maybe or replace aome with eaters- along with all the other maneuvers 

    i am adding castor oil plus caprylic capric 

    castor oil has a shorter shelf life that most of plant butters- most of them being in the 2 years range as acompared to 1 year for the castor oil- 2 years if hydrogenated- other options are softisan 378 (fantastic for lipsticks) has a shelf life of 3 years and is soft solid at room temp

    What do you mean by “shelf life”? Before going rancid? Actually Castor oil is one of the most stable oils. Together with Jojoba (which is a wax actually) and Coconut oil. It has very good oxidative stability. 

  • paprik

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 6:57 pm

    raiyana said:

    I dont make lipsticks, but i do make diy cleansing balms and cleansing oil for my friends and family. Water free formula.

    I used to have issues like this but now my cleansing balms dont go rancid as fast. The one i made 2 years ago still smell okay.

    What i did, i changed most of my plant oils to synthetic ingredients. The products mostly made of:
    Caprylic capric triglyceride
    Mineral oil
    C12-15 Alkyl benzoate
    Isododecane
    Some sunflower oil and castor oil
    Other plant oils (i limit to 1% max)
    BHT as antioxadant at 0.1%
    Fragrance and essential oils (max 0.05%)
    For natural wax, i only use white beeswax

    I dont use preservatives as long as the product is kept away from water and stored properly (not in the bathroom!) Never had any mold. But my “clients” are just friends and family and i always remind them to keep the products dry.

    Are you having problems with syneresis? Looking at your oils, you’re mixing polar and non-polar lipids? 

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 7:07 pm

    raiyana said:

    I dont make lipsticks, but i do make diy cleansing balms and cleansing oil for my friends and family. Water free formula.

    I used to have issues like this but now my cleansing balms dont go rancid as fast. The one i made 2 years ago still smell okay.

    What i did, i changed most of my plant oils to synthetic ingredients. The products mostly made of:
    Caprylic capric triglyceride
    Mineral oil
    C12-15 Alkyl benzoate
    Isododecane
    Some sunflower oil and castor oil
    Other plant oils (i limit to 1% max)
    BHT as antioxadant at 0.1%
    Fragrance and essential oils (max 0.05%)
    For natural wax, i only use white beeswax

    I dont use preservatives as long as the product is kept away from water and stored properly (not in the bathroom!) Never had any mold. But my “clients” are just friends and family and i always remind them to keep the products dry.

    waooo thank u so much. my formula is also water free

    candelila wax
    carbauba wax
    microcrystalline wax
    cetyl alcohol 

    i add castor oil and caprylic capric triglycerides equal parts 

    for texture i add bit magnesium stearate and magnesium myristate 

    1% vitamin e tocopherol t-50

    this is my base formula
    then i take the base and colourants then mix them up and fill the Lipstick mould
    but my Lipsticks stays one year . should i try to add BHT instead of vitamin e? if yes bht would b added while melting all base ingredients? 

    would be very grateful for ur reply 

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 7:09 pm

    Cinema said:

    saraahsan said:

    Cinema said:

    I am not into lipsticks and all- but just a thought- maybe switch oils / butters to the kind with a longer shelf life maybe or replace aome with eaters- along with all the other maneuvers 

    i am adding castor oil plus caprylic capric 

    castor oil has a shorter shelf life that most of plant butters- most of them being in the 2 years range as acompared to 1 year for the castor oil- 2 years if hydrogenated- other options are softisan 378 (fantastic for lipsticks) has a shelf life of 3 years and is soft solid at room temp

    ok i will try to find softisan 378 is there any other liquid option for lipstick . which i can find easily 

  • saraahsan

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 7:11 pm

    Paprik said:

    Cinema said:

    saraahsan said:

    Cinema said:

    I am not into lipsticks and all- but just a thought- maybe switch oils / butters to the kind with a longer shelf life maybe or replace aome with eaters- along with all the other maneuvers 

    i am adding castor oil plus caprylic capric 

    castor oil has a shorter shelf life that most of plant butters- most of them being in the 2 years range as acompared to 1 year for the castor oil- 2 years if hydrogenated- other options are softisan 378 (fantastic for lipsticks) has a shelf life of 3 years and is soft solid at room temp

    What do you mean by “shelf life”? Before going rancid? Actually Castor oil is one of the most stable oils. Together with Jojoba (which is a wax actually) and Coconut oil. It has very good oxidative stability. 

    so my oils are ok its mean i ass castor oil and caprylic capric triglycerides. i should work on my antioxidant. should i add more vitamin e oil?

  • abierose

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 7:29 pm

    Personally, if you’re wanting your lipsticks to be used for longer than a year…or two or three…I would probably include a lip-safe preservative due to the probability of moisture contamination…

  • abierose

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 7:30 pm

    And also culture test for microorganism contamination like @PhilGeis suggested

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 7:34 pm

    @Cafe33, I think it’s because BHT has bad reputation. Funny enough it’s used in food, as well as BHA. Hidden under one of those E codes. Good antioxidants, I use both. Especially useful in formulations with retinol.

  • paprik

    Member
    June 14, 2021 at 7:41 pm

    You would need to conduct some testing to find out. 
    You are adding 50% actual Tocopherol, I would definitely try to add 1% of actual Tocopherol, therefore 2% of T-50. And see how it goes.  

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