[ngarayeva001]

I will add that unlike glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE is anionic and also requires pH above 6 to form an emulsion. If you use it at acidic pH it will be clumpy.

[ngarayeva001]

I found illustro very reliable, but you definitely need higher water phase. I use it for making concealers with high pigment load.

[ngarayeva001]

*suggested.. edit button is very much needed

[ngarayeva001]

Just to be clear, what I suspected above is oil in water not water in oil. W/O introduces stability problems and what can happen is you finally get that perfect texture after 200 attempts and it separates after one month. I like W/Os and experiment with them a lot but if you can replicate the texture without making it W/O you should try. They are highly unpredictable. You can see foundations of the largest brands separating (l saw L’Oreal trumatch already separating while still on the shelf in Boots), and I bet they have all of the knowledge and resources.

[ngarayeva001]

I used to like that eye cream but never attempted making it because of all those waxes serve as a good repellent for me. It isn’t easy to make it right (recrystalisation). Having said that you can achieve something very similar with fatty alcohols and different emulsifiers. You absolutely must keep mineral oil if you are not after ‘natural’ skincare that grows on trees. I would guess the oil phase in that product is at least 15% (I personally would try 20). I would go for a combination of 4% cetyl alcohol and 3% cetyl palmitate, or 3% of cetyl alcohol and 2% of beeswax (some would say it’s a lot but I remember that cream, it’s very thick). I would use 0.4% xanthan gum because acrylic acid based polymers won’t create the right texture for that particular product. 5% of eight Ceteareth 20 or Glyceryl Stearate+PEG 100 stearate to stabilize relatively high oil phase. Try that and if it’s not thick enough up cetyl alcohol. Also go for higher weight mineral oil/hydrocarbons. Hope this works. Good luck.

[ngarayeva001]

In conditioners shear impacts the consistency. Mix it using overhead stirrer (or if you are a hobbyist just take a spatula and give it good stir) and you will get that gelly translucent consistency you are looking for.

[ngarayeva001]

If we talk about scientifically proven skin lightening actives, it’s hydroquinone. I think kojic acid is second best in terms of quality of studies. Vitamin C derivatives have less evidence. Alpha arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone and converts in it in skin but I don’t think anyone knows how much converts and whether it’s effective (statistically significant). I personally use 5% niacinamide, 2% NAG, 2% alpha arbutin in a o/w emulsion with 5% of ethoxydiglycol and 10% of isopropyl myristate (to enhance penetration of the actives) as a night cream and reapply sunscreen during the day in summer. My thinking process was that the all suppose to inhibit tyrasinase transfer using slightly different mechanisms and should improve efficiency of the sunscreen. I can’t tell whether it’s the sunscreen routine or combination of sunscreen and the moisturizer but I almost didn’t tan while being exposed to sun quite a lot. Keep in mind that experience of one individual is anecdotal and doesn’t replace studies.

[ngarayeva001]

If you keep everything unchanged and use Glyceryl Stearate + PEG100 Stearate (goes under many different trade names) as an emulsifier it will work. It handles non polar oils pretty well. I used it with petrolatum and mineral oil many times.

[ngarayeva001]

It’s either preservative or the emulsifier because the formula os straightforward otherwise. Can you post INCIs, please?

[ngarayeva001]

You can dissolve it in hot propylene glycol (60C should be enough). Not sure about hexanediol. It might be a bit irritating at high concentration but it’s useful for the preservation system, so check recommended %.

[ngarayeva001]

Both disodium and tetrasodium dissolve in water if you heat it. I never bother with preparing solutions and use them as recommended by the supplier depending in the formula.

[ngarayeva001]

You don’t need cationic emulsifiers, oils and fatty alcohols. Keep it as a simple SA spray. Increase glycols (add 20% of propylene glycol and up hexanediol) and add a surfactant (1.5% of asm CAPB for example, or 3% of polysorbate 80) to prevent SA from recrystalysing. Increase sodium lactate to 5%. If you want it sprayable, which in my opinion is easier to apply, then ditch HEC. If SA is not effective in a long run, explore climbazole. It’s realatively easy to find in small quantities. I assume it’s for personal use based on stated quantity but I want to remind that climbazole and SA in this capacity are considered drugs from regulatory standpoint.

[ngarayeva001]

Hi there! I am in Richmond. I will message you.

[ngarayeva001]

<div>Helpful links:</div><div>
</div>https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/13929/lipstick-formulation-not-as-easy-as-you-might-think<div&gt;
</div><div>https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/11016/natural-wax-a-problem-solver-in-lipstick
<div>
</div><div>
</div></div>

personalcaremagazine.com

Lipstick formulation: not as easy as you might think

Long lasting, hydrating, matting, plumping: these are all qualities we read about in lipstick advertisements. With new slogans and the guarantee of unique quality, producers encourage us to buy new products. Oil/wax systems sound simple and uncomplicated, but what exactly … Continue reading

[ngarayeva001]

What type of product are you making (example or benchmark) and what is water content?

[ngarayeva001]

Well stearic acid is an anionic emulsifier if you dump some TEA (or NaOH) in your formula. Oh wait it’s TEA-stearate! Nevermind 🙂 I’m a big believer in self education.

[ngarayeva001]

If you have a corporate domain, you can subscribe to several professional magazines that publish suppliers’ generic formulas. Most known are:

https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/
https://www.happi.com/ and 
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/

You can also create an account with several large suppliers to get access to their example formulae. Not like those are perfect, but at least a starting point and free. Ulprospector and Seppic won’t let you get registered unless you can prove you are in the industry and part of an active business. Others don’t ask questions unless you would try to get a free sample (so my advice is don’t ask, just use their websites for info).

I haven’t tried to get an account with Stepan (I am not too much into surfs), but this is probably the one you want to consider.

https://www.stepan.com/content/stepan-dot-com/en.html

Croda and BASF will let you register as long as you have a corporate domain.

Dow is the best. All info is in open access. One doesn’t even need an account to access their formulae.

[ngarayeva001]

Post the formula (at least the ingredients). There are preservatives that mess up whatever formula you add it to. PE9010 isn’t one of them. You might need to change something in the formula.

[ngarayeva001]

To clarify BHT is butylated hydroxytoluene - an antioxidant, not BHT salicylic acid.

[ngarayeva001]

The best of my cleansing balms (it is a commercial product reverse-engineered)

INCI	%
Ethylhexyl Palmitate	35.45%
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate	35.00%
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate	12.00%
PEG-10 Isostearate	10.00%
Perfume	0.50%
BHT	0.05%
Synthetic Wax	7.00%

I don’t think anything compares to this. It’s based on a popular Korean product. I know that sourcing materials might be challenging. I bought most from https://myskinrecipes.com/en
GTIS is from https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/

[ngarayeva001]

I am glad it worked. The only comment, grapeseed oil has a very short shelf life. Some suggestions:

Sunflower oil	68%	ok
Cetyl alcohol	5%	ok but you can just up your soy wax to 12-13%
Polysorbate 80	15%	Increased
Soy Wax	10%	ok
Vit E	0.20%	0.5% might be too much
Greentea extract	1%	I don’t have an opinion (not a fan of plant extracts)
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%	0.50%	Can’t comment on preservatives
Ethylgexylglycerin + capryl glycol 0.5%	0.50%	Can’t comment on preservatives

[ngarayeva001]

In theory, lipstick can be made similarly, but the need for moulds and cooling tunnels might make that non-feasible financially.

So the long answer to your question: you can make the “paint mixing” shop for make-up. But not all products can be made like this, and those that can require an investment in equipment that would make the whole enterprise non-feasible commercially. 

Don’t get discouraged. The idea is cool but needs further development. I would definitely like such mix it yourself make-up shop as a consumer.

[ngarayeva001]

Agree! I am a huge AI enthusiast but it is absolutely rubbish at formulating and writing anything scientifically accurate. That comment sounds like bot generated videos that flooded YouTube recently.

[ngarayeva001]

I read one paper on it (study conducted in Iran in 2014) and I didn’t think it was persuasive enough to justify the price. If you are aware of a newer studies with conclusive results please share.

[ngarayeva001]

I think all solvents aid with penetration of actives but some are stronger than others. Even propylene glycol will do the trick but you might want to do further research based on the type of active you will end up choosing.