Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating What is the best actif or combination for whitening cream?

  • What is the best actif or combination for whitening cream?

    Posted by Fekher on September 9, 2024 at 4:43 pm

    Actually i’am working for making whitening cream then i’am looking forward to hear from expert and costumers what is the best actif or combination for whitening cream:

    I have very large list but I will share the available for the moment :

    1)Niacinamide

    2)Niacinamide with N acetyl glucosamine

    3)OMEGALIGHT® (account to technical sheet it seems interesting)

    4) Stabilised Vit c

    5) Stabilised Vit c+ niacinamide

    6)kojic Acid

    7)Potassium methoxysalicylate

    8)Alpha Arbutin

    9)Gluconolactone (PHA)

    10)Neoglow

    11) other(wich one? 😊)

    @Perry44 @chemicalmatt @Paprik @Abdullah @Pharma @Graillotion @Doreen @ketchito @Cafe33 @ngarayeva001 @PhilGeis @Chemist77

    • This discussion was modified 1 month ago by  Fekher.
    ngarayeva001 replied 2 weeks, 1 day ago 8 Members · 31 Replies
  • 31 Replies
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 9, 2024 at 6:41 pm

    You do need some preservation

    • Fekher

      Member
      September 9, 2024 at 6:42 pm

      Means?

      • PhilGeis

        Member
        September 9, 2024 at 6:50 pm

        What is your policy - FA releasers? parabens? “natural”?

        • Fekher

          Member
          September 9, 2024 at 6:51 pm

          Sensicare c1060

          • PhilGeis

            Member
            September 9, 2024 at 7:31 pm

            Phenoxy with a questionable ester. Can you use EDTA? The gluconolactone (breaks down to gluconic acid) is not much.

            Need something for fungi - what’s pH?

            • Fekher

              Member
              September 9, 2024 at 7:36 pm

              I will not use Gluconolactone (PHA) for stability reason, ph will be in the optimal range of standard cream between 4.8 and 5.3.

            • PhilGeis

              Member
              September 9, 2024 at 8:33 pm

              benzyl alcohol and benzoate work in formula?

            • Fekher

              Member
              September 10, 2024 at 3:06 pm

              I guess but even sensicare c1060 works.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    September 9, 2024 at 8:14 pm

    First …Not my area. 😆

    Second… surprised I did not see hexyl resorcinol on the list…. granted you listed two things by brand name….(not helpful).

    When looking at a new venture…I always like to hear what George has to say on the topic….even if he is just regurgitating from dubious papers. 😉

    Good luck.

    Developing Skin-Lightening Products (ulprospector.com)

    • Fekher

      Member
      September 9, 2024 at 8:31 pm

      Thanks a lot

  • Abdullah

    Member
    September 10, 2024 at 4:56 am

    For your preservatives, it would be much cheaper to purchase piroctone olamine and phenoxyethanol and mix them by yourself.

    • Fekher

      Member
      September 10, 2024 at 3:12 pm

      Yes, for sure however piroctone olamine is not available in my country.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    September 10, 2024 at 5:12 am

    Maybe Deoxyarbutin

    • Fekher

      Member
      September 10, 2024 at 3:16 pm

      Thanks but it can be irritant and also cause coloration in product as I read.

      • Abdullah

        Member
        September 21, 2024 at 4:11 am

        Ad a water soluble anti oxidant

        • Fekher

          Member
          September 21, 2024 at 9:12 am

          Why adding? And why should be water soluble?

          • Abdullah

            Member
            September 23, 2024 at 10:00 pm

            To prevent oxidation of Deoxyarbutin in water phase

  • Fekher

    Member
    September 18, 2024 at 12:06 pm

    @ngarayeva001 need your expertise 😊

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 18, 2024 at 11:16 pm

    If we talk about scientifically proven skin lightening actives, it’s hydroquinone. I think kojic acid is second best in terms of quality of studies. Vitamin C derivatives have less evidence. Alpha arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone and converts in it in skin but I don’t think anyone knows how much converts and whether it’s effective (statistically significant). I personally use 5% niacinamide, 2% NAG, 2% alpha arbutin in a o/w emulsion with 5% of ethoxydiglycol and 10% of isopropyl myristate (to enhance penetration of the actives) as a night cream and reapply sunscreen during the day in summer. My thinking process was that the all suppose to inhibit tyrasinase transfer using slightly different mechanisms and should improve efficiency of the sunscreen. I can’t tell whether it’s the sunscreen routine or combination of sunscreen and the moisturizer but I almost didn’t tan while being exposed to sun quite a lot. Keep in mind that experience of one individual is anecdotal and doesn’t replace studies.

    • Fekher

      Member
      September 19, 2024 at 7:59 am

      Thanks a lot @ngarayeva001 very interesting share and smart point of improvement the quality with solvent I have ipm other not is it important to use the other or can you input others solvents.

      • ngarayeva001

        Member
        September 23, 2024 at 7:08 am

        I think all solvents aid with penetration of actives but some are stronger than others. Even propylene glycol will do the trick but you might want to do further research based on the type of active you will end up choosing.

        • Fekher

          Member
          September 23, 2024 at 8:16 am

          I already make a lot of researchment about vitamin c and (Mpg, glycerin) will be choice.

          Now the problematic is it will be better to use maximum of solvents enhancers for a synergy or it will be better to use the best (one or two) enhancer(s) alone.

  • fareloz

    Member
    September 19, 2024 at 3:39 am

    I wonder why no one mentioned Tranexamic Acid. It was mentioned in one of the recent Beauty Brains talks from Perry and Valery

    • Fekher

      Member
      September 19, 2024 at 8:34 am

      Actually it is very expensive ingredient more then all I wrote and it it is more difficult to use in formulation then a lot of others.

    • ngarayeva001

      Member
      September 23, 2024 at 7:15 am

      I read one paper on it (study conducted in Iran in 2014) and I didn’t think it was persuasive enough to justify the price. If you are aware of a newer studies with conclusive results please share.

  • maxmedchem

    Member
    September 23, 2024 at 3:19 am

    Recommended Combinations for Whitening Cream:

    1. Niacinamide + Alpha Arbutin + Vitamin C: This combination is highly effective in reducing dark spots and brightening the skin while improving texture and radiance.
    2. Kojic Acid + Glycolic Acid + Vitamin C: Excellent for targeting stubborn hyperpigmentation and improving overall skin tone and brightness.
    3. Licorice Extract + Tranexamic Acid + Retinol: A powerful formula for treating melasma, acne scars, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
    4. Azelaic Acid + Niacinamide + Alpha Arbutin: A gentle but effective combination suitable for sensitive skin, providing brightening without irritation.
    • Fekher

      Member
      September 23, 2024 at 7:53 am

      Interesting just for the first combination the form Vitamin c must have pH compatible with the compatible pH of alpha arbutin.

      • fareloz

        Member
        September 24, 2024 at 3:17 am

        Indeed, ascorbic acid requires acidic pH. But Vitamin C is a general term for many ingredients. There are ascorbic acid derivatives that are stable at neural pH

    • AnastasiaB

      Member
      September 26, 2024 at 2:17 pm

      Hi! Please, share your resourses/references for this ingredients combinations? Thank you!

      • fareloz

        Member
        September 27, 2024 at 3:04 am

        I have a hunch the comment is just ChatGPT generated

        • ngarayeva001

          Member
          September 28, 2024 at 12:48 am

          Agree! I am a huge AI enthusiast but it is absolutely rubbish at formulating and writing anything scientifically accurate. That comment sounds like bot generated videos that flooded YouTube recently.

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