Microformulation
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Is it leave on or rinse off? Also, with Preservative 12 (Phenoxyethanol/Ethylhexylglycerin, a dupe for PE9010) you need a chelant as well.
In the end, any answers are theoretical. You could use the recommended level for Leave-on but in the end, testing is key.
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If this is for a US market, you may need to check to see if the FDA approves your “natural” pigments. All colorants must be on the approved FDA Cosmetics COlors List; https://www.fda.gov/industry/color-additive-inventories/summary-color-additives-use-united-states-foods-drugs-cosmetics-and-medical-devices
fda.gov
Summary of Color Additives for Use in the United States
Summary of Color Additives for Use in the United States in Foods, Drugs, Cosmetics, and Medical Devices
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Cottonwood Sap does have some salicins, but if you read any credible sources, it’s unlikely it would be converted to an active on the skin. It can’t be equated to salicylic acid due to this issue. It makes for a good marketing story though.
Also were you to attempt to sell this to consumers, the lack of documentation of the raw materials (TDS/SDS) would be a barrier.
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Yes, there are numerous FDA Enforcement Letters that were issued for non-compliance with Minoxidil and the OTC Monographs.
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I would also suggest that you use NaOH rather than “baking soda” to raise the pH.
As @Perry44 mentioned it is also not very electrolyte tolerant.
If you read some of the Technical assets from Lubrizol, they suggest neutralizing to a pH of 8 or so and then reducing the pH to your final level.
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As far as the change, I might theorize that the client insisted. It was marketed heavily in the DIY/EWG crowds a few years ago for some reason.
We had a similar issue where a client stubbornly insisted on the preservative based upon what they heard from a rep at Supplier’s Day. We suggested it wasn’t the best option but they insisted. It did not pass PET when we sent it off.
Sometimes the clients gum up the works.
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At Microformulation, we collaborate with clients to navigate the intricacies of Product Development, Formulation Design, and Testing. With a dedicated focus on excellence, we also extend our support in identifying and securing vital resources, including contract manufacturers, private label sources, marketing consultants, and regulatory experts.
Led by our esteemed Technical Director, boasting over three decades of profound expertise in pharmaceuticals, over-the-counter (OTC), and personal care markets, we are equipped to empower clients in surmounting barriers and materializing their product visions. Our commitment extends to formulating products compliant with major natural standards such as COSMOS, NSF, NPA, Whole Foods Premium, and others, ensuring the synthesis of safe, effective, and affordable cosmetic solutions.
Moreover, our journey in providing consultancy services to the CBD (hemp) and cannabis-based CBD industries since 2009 underscores our versatility and comprehensive understanding of manufacturing, formulation, and regulatory landscapes within these burgeoning sectors.
At Microformulation, we offer extensive services tailored to streamline cosmetic product development. From refining product definitions to designing formulations, crafting prototypes, conducting rigorous stability testing, and facilitating seamless ownership transfers of formulas to clients, we’re committed to realizing your vision. Additionally, we extend our support in sourcing complementary service providers such as manufacturers, packaging providers, and testing labs.
If you want to revolutionize your cosmetic product development journey with precision, expertise, and excellence, Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting LLC is your trusted partner. Let’s embark on this transformative journey together!
#CosmeticFormulation #ProductDevelopment #CosmeticsIndustry #CBDConsultancy #RegulatoryCompliance #MicroformulationCosmetics
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I would like to suggest, without intending any offense, that engaging
the services of a Chemist could greatly benefit your project. Upon
reviewing your process, I have identified significant gaps and potential
challenges that could be effectively addressed by someone with broader
expertise in chemistry. Engaging a Chemist is a prudent step towards
enhancing efficiency and resolving any issues encountered. It is
important to note that my expertise does not extend to performing
tattoos and as such I leave that to people with relevant experience such as yourself. -
We test very few as it is not often requested by our clients. The most recent was -19% and +36%.
They were performed by a third-party claims substantion testing provider.
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Generally, if the raw material promises anything past a Cosmetic Claim and isn’t an OTC Active, it’s likely marketing. Remember that the materials marketers are not marketing to a final retail product and have more wiggle room.
“The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act
(FD&C Act) defines cosmetics as “articles intended to be rubbed,
poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied
to the human body…for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance” [FD&C Act, sec. 201(i)].
Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers,
perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, makeup, cleansing shampoos,
permanent waves, hair colors, and deodorants, as well as any substance
intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.” -
A prominently featured post within this group contains valuable contacts for Formulators. It is anticipated that individuals will engage in this discussion or reach out to you through messages.
When searching for Formulators and other service providers, Google proves to be of limited assistance. I direct numerous clients to the HAPPI Contract Manufacturers database, despite its somewhat cumbersome interface, as the information it offers is invaluable. You can access the database at https://www.happi.com/contract-manufacturing-private-label-directory/.
It is crucial to delve into specific marketing and business topics relevant to the cosmetic industry. Our frequent interactions with clients across the entire market reveal that newcomers often overlook certain issues, leading to avoidable barriers. For instance, having a realistic budget is essential, as entering the market underfunded can pose significant challenges. Additionally, it is important to be aware of the minimum run sizes that manufacturers may require, typically ranging from 1250 to 2500 pieces. While some companies may accommodate smaller run sizes, our experience indicates that this may limit access to excellent raw materials with unrealistic purchase minimums for smaller runs.
The success of a product line is heavily dependent on effective sales, marketing strategies, and sound business practices.
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Having made several, I will say that they are not tasking from a Formulation standpoint. It is mainly marketing. We saw several companies emerge into the market in the past few years with entertaining names and marketing campaigns. I think the area of use is unusual and to some entertaining and that is where the marketing thrives.
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As a mentor, I recommend focusing your inquiries within the Forum. This
allows experts to provide insights openly and at their convenience.
Finding a private mentorship might be challenging, as it often involves
significant commitment. I find that my most impactful mentoring moments
with my team occur in the lab and during the day-to-day operations of an
R&D facility. Additionally, make use of the search function; past
discussions within the forum have addressed numerous questions,
providing a valuable repository of knowledge over time. -
It’s not feasible for someone to be allergic to “Sulfur” as it occurs naturally in the body and has multiple physiological functions. In Cosmetics, you can look for the -SO4 to avoid surfactants you perceive will be irritating but in general that isn’t a true immunologically mediated reaction. In Pharmacy, you could have a “sulfa” allergy which would refer to the molecular structure of many anti-biotics/oral hypoglycemics. It is a common misconception as in a retail setting I have had 100’s of patients tell me they were allergic to “sulfur.”
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You react to Sulfur? The element S with an atomic number 16? It’s an essential element ion all living organisms. You couldn’t be biologically viable if this were the case.
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You don’t really “dissolve” carbomers as much as you disperse them and then neutralize them to get the final viscosity. Lubrizol has some very helpful articles on dispersing them and neutralizing them.
There are also some pre-neutralized polymers as well.
Recently we have been using a great deal of the 3V products with great results. @chemicalmatt can expand on those.
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You can’t claim hair growth unless you have an approved OTC Product.
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PET should be performed by an appropriate and credentialed facility. The small volume you are making doesn’t change that technical requirement.
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Look closely at your supplier’s documentation. Is it possible you are using a pre-neutralized Sodium Carbomer?
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Just a thought and not an attempt to belittle anyone’s knowledge base, but in my opinion, one might avoid influencing the dialogue with references to slander or creating perceived legal liabilities. Simply counter with a Technical clarification as this is truly the way Science should be conducted and discussed. If your information has validity, cajoling someone into altering their opinions would be unnecessary. Facts should trump feelings in Technical discourse.
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Not to be curt, but what you are asking for is likely paid Work Product. You are looking for specialty information to generate fungible intellectual properties.
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I think you are greatly overestimating the presence of “hidden” compounds in Cosmetic products. In general, most Formulators and ingredient lists seek transparency and follow the FDA Guidelines. As many Formulators and Chemists (not the same animal, different post, different day) will attest, if they leave something out it is generally seen through the incompleteness of the ingredient deck or some other red flag in the ingredient list.
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling-regulations/cosmetics-labeling-guide
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@Perry44 brought up a pertinent point regarding the efficacy of analytical testing within the realm of formulation, particularly in the context of deformulation or reformulation processes. Perry highlighted that analytical testing is seldom employed and is considered virtually useless in such scenarios.
When it comes to reformulating a product, chemists typically initiate the process by obtaining an ingredient list from a benchmark sample. Subsequently, they conduct bench testing on the benchmark, utilizing this information to craft a new formulation. This process involves creating a prototype in the laboratory based on the gathered insights. Leveraging their understanding of normal usage rates, raw material properties, and their expertise, chemists can develop a prototype that meets the desired specifications.
It’s important to emphasize that in the cosmetics industry, there isn’t a magic machine akin to the one humorously referenced in Monty Python that “goes ping.” Instead, the formulation process relies heavily on the chemist’s knowledge, experience, and practical experimentation.
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Most likely any food sensitivities are not from “sulfur” itself, but from sulfur-containing compounds. There are plenty of dietary nutritional sources of this information.
In Science, we don’t have coincidences. They are properly theses waiting for empirical study in a well-designed experiment.