Forum Replies Created

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  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 13, 2018 at 7:10 pm in reply to: Is there any “Green” Solubalizing Agent

    Also … Symbio Solv Clear Plus (Dr. Straetmans)

    Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside; Aqua; Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate; Glyceryl Caprylate; Citric Acid; Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate; Sodium Surfactin

    I personally find Poly Suga Mulse D9 to be a superior product

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 13, 2018 at 3:37 pm in reply to: vegan, 100% natural oil

    I dare say that killing all those Jojoba’s for the sake of making an oil to put on your face is hardly SavingThePlanetEarth!

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 12, 2018 at 2:29 am in reply to: Need help with personal lubricant formula! 🙂

    The cost is primarily in all the testing required to submit the FDA 510K application to get market approval.  The ingredients are quite inexpensive.

    Yes, about 2015 the FDA really started cracking down on personal lubricant regulations and several companies had to pull products from the US market.  The KY Jelly product line was sold by its owner rather than deal with the 510K submission/regulations.

    There are still quite a few small brands flying under the radar without 510K approved status, but that’s just a matter of the FDA paying attention to them or not.  You can try calling it by another name, but if your marketing focuses on lubrication for intimate use then you may have regulatory issues to deal with.

    Since these products are intended to be used inside a body cavity probably better to err on the safe side.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 11, 2018 at 11:45 am in reply to: Salicylic acid tonner

    @antmagn

    Add 1% Sodium Citrate to your mix … that will help solubilize the SA. … if you are still getting crystallization, increase propylene glycol to 30%.  You can also try adding a 3% Methyl Gluceth-20 Benzoate (Finsolv EMG-20)

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 11, 2018 at 3:07 am in reply to: Need help with personal lubricant formula! 🙂

    @Marley:

    I’ve formulated 3 commercial personal lubricants.  What is the molecular weight of the Hyaluronic Acid you are using?  If it’s a higher molecular weight HA, you’ll wind up with a solid gel with the HA alone.  You might consider dropping that down to 0.5 - 0.7% depending on the molecular weight.

    Your HEC is way out too high, particularly if you are using a higher molecular HA.

    As Mark Fuller mentioned above, personal lubricants for intimacy are regulated as FDA 510K medical devices and must undergo the same testing used for condoms … it’s an expensive undertaking maybe $150,000 or so.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 10:13 am in reply to: Please help a dummy understand formulating with ceramides.

    You would use 5% of a Ceramide Complex, the composition of that complex being Ceramides (50%), Cholesterol (25%), FFA (15%).  Easier to just purchase:

    http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Ceramide-Complex_p_27.html  (This is SK Influx from Evonik repackaged by MC in small quantities).

    Note:  Ceramides/Ceramide Complexes are generally water-soluble, not oil soluble.

    Free Fatty Acids … kind of a generic catchall term for components of certain oils … there are specific ingredients that are either high is FFA or the FFA/Esssential Fatty Acids have been extracted.  Here’s something you might consider:

    http://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/FSS-Acai-Sterols-EFA-p/fss10414.htm

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 9:54 am in reply to: New Preservative

    IMD was one of the winners recently announced for natural preservatives:

    https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/networking/news/company/Top-Green-Preservatives-Awarded-491642711.html

    There are some very interesting new natural Preservatives under development. Looks like it is worth a try.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 1:25 am in reply to: Allergen Free Deodorant?

    @rkaufman6:

    Have him try Native Sensitive Skin Unscented Deodorant.  It’s formulated with Magnesium Hydroxide which is much gentler than baking soda.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 10, 2018 at 1:17 am in reply to: Emulsifier for Honey in Oil product

    @Emilywhite360:

    Try it at 3% and see how that works.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 6, 2018 at 8:19 pm in reply to: Natural Deodorant Question

    Forgive me, but I can only relate to temperature in Centigrade.  If you heat to say, 80C to completely melt all the butters & waxes, it really does not matter at what temperature you add the powders as long as it is above 60C or so.  You must keep it stirring to get an even distribution of powders and then pour around 45C - 42C.  Your concoction should start solidifying around 40C - 38C … enough so that the powders will not drop out of the mix.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 6, 2018 at 9:49 am in reply to: Emulsifier for Honey in Oil product

    You’ll want to use a low HLB emulsifier to create a water-in-oil emulsion such as Glyceryl Oleate or Lecithin (HLB 4) …. if you use Lecithin inquire as to the HLB because different Lecithins have HLBs ranging from 4 to 9.

    Glyceryl Oleate would be my first choice as opposed to Lecithin

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 6, 2018 at 3:27 am in reply to: Natural Deodorant Question

    You need to keep stirring continuously after you add the powders and keep stirring until the mixture cools down to about 45 degrees C and pour into containers at that temperature.

    It sounds like you are pouring at too high a temperature and the powders are dropping out of the mix.    

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 6, 2018 at 3:17 am in reply to: preservative mapping issues

    Here are a couple of options you can try that are effective at higher pH levels:

    (1)   Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) flower extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) flower extract, water

    (2)   Phenethyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol (Lincoln Fine Ingredients)

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 5, 2018 at 11:42 pm in reply to: Nanotechnology in skincare?

    So are money-back guarantees and monthly fulfillment plans … This is typical sales/marketing model used on the Internet mostly by companies that have only one product … and they are generally less than credible.

    File a Trademark for “Advanced Moisture Complex” and never identify it anywhere in your marketing except on the package label so one can only determine the actual ingredients by purchasing the product.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 5, 2018 at 10:33 pm in reply to: “Natural” Cosmetic Preservative Systems

    Parfum (Naticide’s INCI) is generally p-anisic acid or sodium anisate/sodium levulinate or Levulinic Acid dissolved in a glycerin/water mix.  It is a good basic component of a preservative blend, but I would not rely on that as sole preservation ingredient … it’s possible with proper hurdle ingredients that it is strong enough, but I would be cautious in using it solo.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 5, 2018 at 6:06 pm in reply to: Nanotechnology in skincare?

    Yes, Super Low Molecular Weight HA will penetrate the dermis and provide superior moisturization and it’s a component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor.  Higher weight HA forms a film on the surface of the skin to help reduce TEWL.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 31, 2018 at 6:44 pm in reply to: To be or not to be? Essential Oils in skincare

    It all depends on the market you are trying to address and the essential oils you select.  I generally recommend to clients to make a “fragrance-free” version of the product to cater to consumers who have skin sensitivities/allergies.

    However, the first thing a consumer will usually do when they open a container of a new skin care product is smell it.  Fragrance is simply an important component of the consumer experience, for most.  

    You can try hydrosols or essential oils, but I’ve found that hydrosols, with the exception of Rose, are too weak to impart an acceptable fragrance and they smell “hay-like”.  Carrubba has a line of natural, water-soluble fragrances that I find to be a good option in lieu of essential oils.  But, if you choose your essential oils properly (there are non-sensitizing EO’s on the market), you can generally create a nice fragrance profile w/o irritation or allergic reactions.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 29, 2018 at 4:24 pm in reply to: why face mask giving a burning sensation to some

    Jesus … it’s the limonene.  You’re lucky only a few people are experiencing a burning sensation.  

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 23, 2018 at 1:19 am in reply to: Whats a good preservative to pair with Euxyl PE 9010

    You’ll only need about 0.2% Citric Acid to get your pH down in the 5.0 range.  You could supplement that with EDTA, Phytic Acid or any other chelant.  Increase the Euxyl to 1% and throw in perhaps 0.5% Capryl Glycol or EHG/Caprylyl Glycol blend … that should do the trick.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 2, 2018 at 2:43 am in reply to: Preservation Strategies For Natural Formulators

    @formula8101:

    To the best of my knowledge, Yes.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 2, 2018 at 2:40 am in reply to: What are your favorite Ecocert accepted emulsifiers for face cream?

    @Paulaa:

    If you are experiencing some soaping with Olivem 1000, cut down on your oils/butters to no more than 10% total and add 2% or so Glyceryl Stearate.  That should help.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 28, 2018 at 10:46 pm in reply to: liquid soap concentrate made of powder

    Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate (Powder).  There is also a paste version.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 13, 2018 at 8:51 pm in reply to: What is my baking soda and citric acid reacting to?

    Well … Sodium Bicarbonate is a base and Citric Acid is an acid.  So, you’re getting a reaction between the Sodium Bicarb and Citric Acid producing water and carbon dioxide.

    You can try coating the Sodium Bicarbonate with Oil and the Citric Acid with oil separately before you combine the two to see if that has any effect.  Or, just leave the Citric Acid out altogether.

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 9, 2018 at 12:08 am in reply to: fast microbiology testing?

    No, what I am referring to is more this type of technology substituting for a full Preservative Challenge Screen or Preservative Challenge Test.  

    It’s all a function of your experience base with the particular formula is question.  If it’s an established product that you have made many times without issue, then I would be somewhat comfortable with the 8 hour analysis.  But, I will admit that I have not studied these systems in any type of detail, so I don’t know at what threshold level of reference compound is sufficient to claim a positive or negative test.  I would presume that any detection of the reference compound in the batch is indicative of contamination.

    I will also assume that the reference compound is a very specific indicator of microbial growth and is unique & specific enough that there could not be a possibility of a false positive.  

  • MarkBroussard

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    July 6, 2018 at 10:16 pm in reply to: fast microbiology testing?

    I’m sure these systems work as advertised.  The one caution I would have is that microbes naturally exhibit an exponential growth curve peaking at 48 to 72 hours.  So, if you used these systems and tested daily over a 3 day period, with perhaps a security check at 7 days, you’re probably in good shape.

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