MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Sea buckthorn oil is a very intense red color and it will color just about any formula it is used in. There is a Sea Buckthorn Extract, but it is crazy expensive and of course will not be rich in the omegas.
I really don’t think there is a good “fix” for this. Normally, any lotion/cream with a modicum of Sea Buckthorn oil in it will be orange. You can cut back on the Sea Buckthorn to lighten the color, but it will have some color.
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It’s really a function of you total formula pH … try to keep it around 4.0. Again, without knowing you have in your formula it is not possible to tell what may be causing the SA to precipitate out. Check your pH would be the first recommendation.
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It sounds like the Salicylic Acid is not properly solubilized and/or is precipitating out in the cream. Not really possible to offer you more guidance without more detail on your formula
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It’s most likely the Sorbic Acid in the Optiphen Plus causing a flushing reaction. Try changing your preservative to something without a sorbate in it.
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@CriticalMicelle
I think the major difference is that Ascorbyl Glucoside is considerably more expensive than SAP. Other than that, I don’t think you’re going to find a major difference in effectiveness between the two.
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I would not call “pH balanced” a marketing hoax. As the skin typically has a native pH of 4.8 to 5.2, pH balanced means exactly that … the product is formulated to have a pH within the range of the skin’s natural pH. Where’s the “hoax” in that?
The skin recovers much more quickly from an acidic disruption of the acid mantle barrier than from an alkaline disruption. That’s a simple fact.
Many people simply don’t like the squeeky clean stripped feeling of natural soaps.
I find it amusing that a company is bashing marketing claims of competitive products with a document in which they are likewise making marketing claims.
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I’ve formulated moisturizing cleansers, micellar waters and cleansing balms and quite honestly, with a 20 second or less contact time on the skin prior to wash-off, you are simply not going to get any significant moisturization of the skin from any of these products. You’ll get less stripping with the cleansing balms, but I think the effect you are feeling is less stripping, not moisturization per se.
I will admit that the cleansing balm did leave a pleasant skin feel post-rinsing. However, I prefer the feeling of a well-formulated, gentle cleanser.
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In that case, you might contact the Universities that offer MS Cosmetic Chemistry and see if you could do a Post-Doc in Cosmetic Chemistry
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You would be better off getting an MS in Cosmetic Chemistry as opposed to a PhD in MSE. If you are not too far along in your PhD program, you might consider wrapping it up with an MS MSE and pursuing an MS in Cosmetic Chemistry.
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The average contact time of a typical facial wash is all of 20 seconds. Not much going to happen in a 20 second period except the effect of the surfactants.
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Dermosoft 1388 ECO - Bulk Quantities: Evonik/Dr. Straetman’s
Repacked by Formulator Sample Shop for small quantities
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@shevy1129
It sounds like you are trying to creating a sprayable emulsion that also includes a surfactant.
(1) 14% is a lot of oil to get into solution, you might consider dropping that down significantly.
(2) 20% NaCl … perhaps more like 2% … perhaps 20% is a typo
(3) Use Sucrose Stearate as the emulsifier. It will create a milky white emulsion that is water-thin.
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The only difference between a lotion (flows) and a cream is viscosity. As previously mentioned, you can, using the exact same ingredients, increase the viscosity by increasing the emulsifiers, fatty acids, gums or other thickening agents and leaving all other ingredients at the same percentage as was used in the lotion.
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The “active” in the Honeysuckle is actually a paraben precursor. Though not technically a paraben, the molecular structure is very close to parabens.
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I’ve use it with both success and failure … so you will be best off coupling it with hurdle technology and possibly a complimentary preservative
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I suspect so … that and the alcohol. I’ve never looked at a compositional analysis of it, but you are probably correct.
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A 3:1 ratio of solubilizer:oil is a good place to start.
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The Magnesium Oil is not going to do much for you as it regards deodorizing other than lowering the pH to create a “hostile” environment for microbial growth, but i could have some label appeal to the crowd that likes to use Magnesium Oil. I would start with 5% and see where you wind up when you measure the pH.
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Poly Suga Mulse D9 … you can buy small quantities from Formulator Sample Shop. They also carry SymbioSolv Clear Plus which is pretty good too.
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Magnesium Chloride will lower the pH so it is compatible with cider vinegar. It will, however, make your concoction feel “oily”
Look up Magnesium Oil … it is a popular topical product made of 30% to 35% Magnesium Chloride and water.
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Given that you are adding clay to your concoction, I would recommend that you add in this order to your water phase: (1) Preservative; (2) Clay; (3) Xanthan Gum
You want to Preservative to penetrate into the interstitial spaces of the clay matrix. If you add the Xanthan Gum before the Preservative, you will reduce the ability of the Preservative to penetrate into those interstitial spaces and you may have issues with mold growth, in particular.
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Linatural CO-NLP-1
Certified organic orange / lemon grass / sunflower oils / natural alcohol
I’ve used this in conjunction with Lexgard Natural in a clay-based product and it passed PCT.
Since you have an anhydrous formula, you should not have any issues.
Agree with Perry … an EO-based preservative would most likely not be effective in most formulas if used solo.
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Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate (Lexgard Natural - Inolex)
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(1) Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is not easy to work with … there are much better options like Tetrahexadecyl Ascorbate.
(2) You’re not going to find Ethyl Ascorbic Acid from a repacker … it is only available in bulk from manufacturers.
(3) Alibaba/EBay - that’s like buying drugs on the street … you never really know what that white powder is in the bag. I would stay away from Chinese suppliers who have no problem whatsoever adulterating their products.
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You really don’t need to pre-disperse it prior to addition. Just sprinkle into the vortex while stirring at high speed (700RPM +) while you emulsion if formed, but your mixture has not gotten too viscous.