Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Need recommendation of natural solubilizers

  • Need recommendation of natural solubilizers

    Posted by rebeccaso on October 10, 2018 at 5:43 pm

    Hi all, I’m trying to develop a toner with apple cider vinegar, rose water and essential oils. Therefore, the pH will be around 3-4 and I anticipate my essential oils concentration to be less than 1.5%. I also want to have the oils mixed in without asking the customer to shake it before each use. What’s your recommendation of a solubilizer that is

    1. 100% natural
    2. Vegan
    3. Gluten-free (ideal but I can live with it if this is not available)
    4. Clear solution (ideal but I can live with it if this is not possible)
    5. Non-comedogenic

    I’ve read that Tegosolve 55 and Natrgem S140NP are both good? What’s your recommendation and what concentration should I use for the toner?

    Appreciate your help as always!

    ngarayeva001 replied 5 years, 6 months ago 5 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • markbroussard

    Member
    October 10, 2018 at 7:49 pm

    Poly Suga Mulse D9 … you can buy small quantities from Formulator Sample Shop.  They also carry SymbioSolv Clear Plus which is pretty good too.

  • rebeccaso

    Member
    October 10, 2018 at 8:00 pm

    @MarkBroussard Thank you! What % would you suggest for each?

  • markbroussard

    Member
    October 10, 2018 at 8:47 pm

    A 3:1 ratio of solubilizer:oil is a good place to start.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 11, 2018 at 11:25 am

    Be careful with essential oils. You said it will be less than 1.5% of your formula, but this amount sounds extremely high. In fact even 0.5% is high. There are many legit researches showing evidence  that EO’s are either cytotoxic or phototoxic or both. I can share papers and links to sources. I personally use them only in rinse off products.

  • doreen

    Member
    October 12, 2018 at 10:25 am

    @ngarayeva001
    Agreed on the EO’s. I wonder where that ‘essential’ oil hype came from anyway. They’re neither essential nor special in my opinion.

  • chemist77

    Member
    October 12, 2018 at 2:56 pm

    @Doreen Initially I thought EO stands for Essentially Obsolete ???

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 12, 2018 at 2:59 pm

    @Doreen, the first thing that an average consumer does when trying a new product is smelling it. Smell is a huge part of the decision making (unfortunately). I have a friend, who knows that I formulate without colorants and fragrance, but every single time I show her a new product… yes, she smells it….

  • doreen

    Member
    October 12, 2018 at 9:15 pm

    @Chemist77
    :joy:

    @ngarayeva001
    Yes, but I didn’t contradict that fact. I do formulate with (mostly synthetic) fragrances a lot. Between 0.1 - 0.3% usually. I have a sensitive skin type, but I can handle concentrations that low.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 12, 2018 at 9:24 pm

    @Doreen I don’t mind synthetic fragrances. I would used them if I had an access to good quality materials, but since I don’t I prefer not using anything at all.

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