Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How to Add Hyaluronic Acid to Moisturizer?

  • How to Add Hyaluronic Acid to Moisturizer?

    Posted by nat123 on October 7, 2018 at 3:06 pm

    Hello - I am interested in learning how to add hyaluronic acid to a moisturizer formulation. A basic formula I follow at times is:
    79% water
    1% preservative
    5% Emulsifying Wax NF
    2% Cetyl Alcohol
    13% oil

    I know this is missing humectants, occlusives, etc., but that is just a very basic outline of what I follow. 

    Is it best to include hyaluronic acid in the water phase? Cool down phase?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    markbroussard replied 5 years, 4 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • markbroussard

    Member
    October 7, 2018 at 4:41 pm

    It all depends on the molecular weight of the Hyaluronic Acid you are adding.  If it’s Super Low Molecular Weight, you can add it to the water phase prior to emulsification.

    If it is a higher molecular weight HA, you’ll want to add it post-emulsification, at cool-down since it gels/thickens and will interfere with the formation of the emulsion if you add it pre-emulsification.

  • nat123

    Member
    October 7, 2018 at 9:57 pm

    Thank you @MarkBroussard! If I do go with a high molecular weight HA, can it just be sprinkled over the finished emulsion with mixing? Or should it be pre-dispersed in water/glycerin? 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 8, 2018 at 11:02 am

    As per my experience, it should be hydrated in water first, but it all depends on your equipment. My overhead sirrer is not particularly powerful. 

    @MarkBroussard, would addition of HA hydrated it in a small amount of water to the cool down phase affect the stability of the lotion?

  • markbroussard

    Member
    October 8, 2018 at 11:33 am

    You really don’t need to pre-disperse it prior to addition.  Just sprinkle into the vortex while stirring at high speed (700RPM +) while you emulsion if formed, but your mixture has not gotten too viscous.

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