MakingSkincare
Forum Replies Created
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Also try HEC
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I can’t edit my comment above, but wanted to add to my list above: KF-7312K by Shin-Etsu
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You might want to use pre-dispersed, coated pigments/mica - try kobo and sensient, merck etc and use bentone, aerosil etc.
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Some great points made by Mark, Bill and Margreat.
You might want to learn how to make a basic emulsion - swiftcraftymonkey has tutorials, as do I, and Perry’s course is a good start.
Don’t forget to use a broad spectrum preservative and clay can be a challenge in that respect.
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marky3320, where are you located? I know of a couple of places in London, UK which are recruiting and would also take on interns. Please message me for more details.
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As you are making this at home you could use cling film/plastic wrap to cover the water phase container. You can also weigh the product at the end and make up for any water loss.
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Floral waters would not be appropriate to neutralise odour. I would suggest that you contact a perfumer instead so they can blend something specific or else use deodorized shea butter.
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As Mark has said, there is far more to preserving your product than just adding a preservative. A strategy is needed:-1. Minimise sources of energy for microbial growth (aka “bug food”) - eg fruit, botanicals, tea, lecithin, mineral water, milk of any kind, honey, hydrosols, floral waters, aloe vera, extracts, protein, clay, powders, starches etc - reduce these to a tiny % (eg 0.1%). This is very important.2. Double check against this webpage whether your preservative is truly broad spectrum -http://makingskincare.com/preservatives/ (If your preservative isn’t one of the 27 reviewed on the webpage above check for it here -https://www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/permalink/529462787179550/ (If you can’t access this second link do first join the Making Skincare facebook group here -https://www.facebook.com/groups/makingskincare/)NB: Phenonip, germaben and liquid germall plus are well known amongst cosmetic chemists as broad spectrum preservatives.3. Add glycerin and other polyols4. Add 0.2% disodium EDTA into the heated water phase5. Switch to packaging which the customer can’t contaminate easily - jars are the worst for contamination.6. Reduce the pH to between 4 and 5 if possible.7. Sanitise your equipment with 70% IPA8. Use distilled, deionised or purified water, not tap/faucet or mineral water9. If your water isn’t micro checked, heat and hold your water phase at 75c/167f for 20 minutes - this will kill some of the non-endospore forming bacteria. (If your preservative can withstand heat put it in the heated water phase rather than the heated oil phase. This improves preservative contact with the water phase so that it is not partitioned in the water-oil interface).10. If possible micro test all of your raw materials.11. Use good GMP - http://www.mariegale.com/good-manufacturing-practices/gmp-basics.html12. We can’t rely on sight, smell to know if our product is contaminated - one can put 100,000 bacteria into a milliliter of water and the water will appear to the naked eye to be crystal clear and usually won’t smell bad. Most cosmetics tested have counts ranging into the tens of thousands or millions of cells per milliliter have subtle or no aesthetic differences from sterile samples. The only way to know if your preservative system is working is to get it tested.
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What is the INCI name of this powder you are adding at 10%? Why have you decided on 10%?
Are you including a reliable emulsifier blend, stabiliser etc ? -
Carbomer isn’t an emulsifier I’m afraid.
I’d pair cetearth-20 with another emulsifier such as glyceryl stearate. How much to use of each? See: http://www.makingskincare.com/hlb-calculator/ -
Andy if you are still looking for a diy homecrafter supplier which sells Cetiol PGL in small amounts, here’s one in Italy - http://www.glamourcosmetics.it/en/gc-pgl-oil
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You could try the XLG version and also give 1% Volarest FL-LQ-(RB) a shot.
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Hi lkatic, if you aren’t able to access a homogenizer and SPF testing facilities these posts might be of interest:-Sunscreen is also classed as a drug by the FDA.To add to Mark’s comments, below pH 6 the solubility of zinc oxide increases and it may migrate from the oil phase to the water phase causing pH drift, colour change. So best to use Zinc which has been coated to make it hydrophobic in a oil/ester/silicone/or hydrocarbon based dispersion. Surface treatment will also help prevent unwanted chemical reactions between the untreated TiO2 and the other ingredients. I’d also avoid using anionic emulsifiers and thickeners.
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captex SBE used at 10% or more should prevent grains
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Ask the perfumer to add more base notes and fixatives to the fragrance and try adding the fragrance at the end of the process when the soap is as cool as possible so as to minimise fragrance loss from evaporation.
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The konjac I have is an off white powder which gels very quickly and a 1% solution is slightly cloudy and viscous. If you’d like my supplier’s details please do PM me.
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Our head office is in London, UK, a bit far from Glasgow but if you’re interested, do PM me.
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I formulate so many different products for my clients that I couldn’t hope to use them all on a regular basis! I have my favourites which suit my skin type.I do also formulate specifically for myself, as I have very picky skin and do also give away some products.I seem to have accumulated quite a stock of miracare based body wash which will keep me going for a couple of years.
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Cawarra, please can you start a new thread and provide the formula in full in % and the process that you followed and more details about the separation etc.
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As Belassi commented, there are two ways of making soap. Using lye or using synthetic detergents. The ingredients you mention (SCI, Olive oil peg, SLSA etc) are synthetic detergents.If you’d like to use the lye method, here’s a tutorial - http://www.makingskincare.com/how-to-make-soap/To learn how to use synthetic detergents to create bars, shampoo or body wash: - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co.uk/p/surfactant-based-products-that-arent.htmlTo learn more about “natural” - https://chemistscorner.com/cosmetic-chemists-guide-to-natural-and-organic-cosmetic-standards/
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Maybe it could be worth considering some way for people to give testimonials/ feedback on their experiences with formulation consultants?
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Ovens/incubators set at:- 30c (1 year) and 45c (3 months)RT (20c or 25c) - 1 yearFridge: 4C (control temp) - 1 yearMonitor: appearance, colour, odour, pH, viscosity, preservation
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This isn’t the same - uses silver citrate - http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/tinosan-sdc-preservative-and-deodorant.html
Silver-based preservatives are often subject to discoloration with loss of efficacy over time with oxidation. -
Yes, I agree a name brand is advisable. I’ve compared some overhead stirrers in this post - https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/95/industrial-mixer-for-small-scale-manufacturer-emulsions
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Why would you need to mix for so long as 30-60 minutes continuously?
Overhead lab stirrers only go up to 2,000 rpm. They are fine for cool down stirring, however. I doubt whether that ebay stirrer can handle viscous emulsions or large quantities.Stick blenders have a much higher tip speed which will create a finer emulsion.You could mount a commercial catering big stick blender on some kind of makeshift stand?