[Lab]

Update:

Yesterday we carried out three more tests, one on the back of the hand, one on the sole of the foot and one on the upper region of the lips. On the back of the hand there was no effect, while on the foot it was possible to feel a slight coolness (I thought it was funny, like tickling 😆). As for the lips, in the upper part (inside) the sensation was very vivid (it had no effect on the outside). When we tested it on the bottom lip, we didn’t feel anything on either side… how crazy

Of course, all this refers to the pleasure gel, I haven’t tested it with the balm yet, but maybe that’s the way to go… I’ll have to use the upper lip (inside) as a parameter and adjust the concentrations until the effect is milder…

Is there any other component that has menthol or any refreshing active that you recommend for these cases, that is less irritating?

[Lab]

Hi Ghita!

Always follow FDA recommendations in a matter of %. They list chemical and physical filters that are safe and also their maximum allowable concentration. If it has been approved by the FDA, it is safe. Period.

There are several cosmetic ingredients that you can find that are blends of filters, for example - maybe you can find something interesting in them.

To cite some trade names in general that I usually work with (you can check the INCI in the links below):

• Neo Heliopan® AP
• Tinosorb® S
• Tinosorb® M
• Uvinul® T-150
• Uvinul® MC 80
• Solaveil® XT-100
• Parsol® TX

Please remember that the laws in force in my country (Brazil) are different from those established by the FDA, so I cannot tell you off the top of my head which filters are allowed in the USA and their concentrations. I’ve never had a problem with any of the above in my country and we’ve always followed ANVISA (our regulatory body) rules. Therefore, some research will be required on your part.

About sun exposure: regardless of your filter’s FPS, ideally there should be reapplication at most every 2 hours. Regardless of whether it is 30 FPS or 70 FPS. Always reapply.

Oh, and if I may ask, how are you sure this filter is SPF 50? Did you carry out a test in a specialized laboratory or is it an estimate from a sun protection calculator?

Greetings! 😌

[Lab]

New update guys.

We were successful with the pomades/waxes/etc. we had to develop.

We made a total of 09 different types of pomades to include in our classes, with the following directions:

• Shine
• High fixation
• Web
• Photoprotection
• Modeling curls
• Matte
• Detox
• Vegan
• Minimalist

Many thanks to everyone who helped me with this issue. For many reasons, this was one of the hardest projects I’ve ever worked on (in terms of development). Everything seemed to go wrong all the time. I am very grateful to the community and hope to be able to give back one day. It’s a relief!

Have a great day! (:

• This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by  Lab.

[Lab]

Sorry, as your photos didn’t load I guess I misunderstood something. I will answer for both possibilities, guide yourself according to what you want:

IF your formula has a color you DO NOT want:

• Try solubilizing your fragrance and preservative in Cocamidopropyl Betaine
• Decrease the % of fragrance, if it has its own coloring (non-transparent)
• Check batches of your raw materials to make sure the expiration date is okay

IF you WANT your formula to have a different coloring:

• Add dyes, clay (you can call it a “detox shampoo”) or something
• Change your fragrance to one that already has natural coloring
• Add keratin and/or hydrolyzed proteins and/or extracts that have a brownish color or stronger (from 0.2% - 1% you already get a good result)
• Use a pearlescent
• Make a 2-in-1 emulsified shampoo (cleans and conditions) and add some strong color active (non-transparent)

I hope it helps! (:

[Lab]

Hi Perry, thanks for updating the forum. What a revolution!

Positive ones:

- I liked the cleaner design, it’s probably a matter of time to adapt.

- I love the “unanswered” and “popular” tab, it’s really useful!

- The topic boxes are very interesting, maybe this will make it easier when searching.

- “Recent discussions” box was great too.

- Subscribe button was awesome in place of the star from before.

- Possibility of more editions and the presented history is very good.

- Loved different colors for different topics. It turned out very functional!

- “Notify me of replies via email” option when answering is powerful!!

- Emojis! Emojis!! EMOJIS!!! 😈

Not so positive ones:

- I would particularly prefer it if it were possible to “minimize” the topic boxes (or at least that it was a “line” above the general discussions, smaller, you know?). As some have mentioned, sometimes people get confused when categorizing the question and I felt that the boxes take up a lot of space in the main menu.

- There is certain lag for typing answers and loss of words and letters.

- I can’t tell which discussions I opened, and which ones I opened, which had a new reply. This confuses me a bit! 🙁

- “Pinned” posts are not actually pinned. They are marked as important but are lost when there are new discussions.

- Do members still even have a “signature”? I haven’t seen any yet.

- I’m having trouble searching for topics on the forum.

- Chances of a darkmode soon? As someone who stays in front of the computer most of the day, the brightness has always been something that bothered me, but this is a personal and particular case, I don’t know if others feel the same. 😇

Let me know if anything got confused. Thank you for all your dedication to the community and your efforts to keep bringing us together. You’re the man, the legend!

P.S.: <i style=”background-color: var(-bb-content-background-color); font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Avatars are no longer randomly generated, oh no! I thought mine was the best. 😭

Edit 1: My italicized text in the last sentence (P.S.) was edited itself, I think it’s some error because I just pressed “ctrl+i” in the sentence.

• This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by  Lab.

[Lab]

Thanks for your notes @MariaSibon ! 

In my case, when I added the glycerin my tests did not solidify at any point, even after 2-3 days of rest. The “glycerin-free” (lol) versions completely solidify in 5-60 minutes or so, depending on the formula…

It’s hard to understand what exactly happens, I’m using 17.5% of Ceteareth-20 and the formula is very close to the one I posted earlier in the topic, we added only 1% of total actives at the end and a dye. As it was solidifying normally before using the glycerin (we tried 7.5%; 10%; 15%) they chose not to touch the % Ceteareth-20…

As I’m trying to find out more about how all of this impacts formulation solidification, I’m afraid I don’t have an answer or ideas for your questions yet

[Lab]

@Joseph141 Sorry if I sounded rude, it wasn’t intentional

As @Abdullah suggested, increase the PQ7 a little and… add a blend of preservatives to your formulation (1% maybe?). As much as it’s for personal use, it is important to preserve the system so that microorganisms don’t grow (they can often cause damage and allergies and so much more)

[Lab]

Abdullah said:

I will start with 0.5%.
Decyl glucoside reduces viscosity.

I will add it at the end after everything else has been mixed.

Thank you for the reply! I’ll try to reproduce the same shampoo and see if it stays the same or better 

[Lab]

Many thanks to all for the suggestions and guidance. I’ll take a look at the ones that were nominated. I will request samples as soon as possible (:

@GeorgeBenson I will request respective technical materials when I do so, maybe they will say something about these proportions and the ingredients they solubilize

[Lab]

evchem2 said:

I think you already have an answer from chemicalmatt “The polyol and the PEGylated surfactant both act to stabilize gellation and lower the set point of the final product”. So from a processing/stability standpoint the glycol addition is helpful, whether or not it plays a role in sensory attributes

You’re right, I’m sorry

I guess I just wanted to confirm if there are any sensory or performance changes in the hair that can also be noticed in addition to what Matt said, but I expressed myself badly

[Lab]

Hey!

We use PEG-180M for the web effect because it is stronger than PEG-90M. There are versions of PEG-180M in both a kind of viscous dispersion and dry powder, but we are located in Brazil and personally it was very difficult to find a supplier that sold in small quantities and sent us samples to test…

About the “matte” one… we decided to go the simpler way: Beeswax (cera alba) [4-7%] + Kaolin (Clay) [2-4%]! It works well with this %

I hope it helps! Let me know if you have difficulties! 🙆‍♀️

[Lab]

Hii! Unfortunately we don’t work with this kind of data, as we don’t manufacture the products, we only formulate them to put in our classes as a guide for our students (assuming the’ll conduct all the necessary tests)

However, if I end up discovering something about it, I’ll let you know!

[Lab]

Thank you for your answer!

Do you have any sources to share where I can find this step by step to comply with ISO 16128 (for companies that intend to join)? For example, who does the audit, how is it requested, etc…

All I find are articles talking about the products themselves and the characteristics of the ISO in question.

[Lab]

Thank you Ketchito, this was very helpful! (:

[Lab]

No problem, thank you so much for sharing this method! I will follow this for sure (:

[Lab]

Wow, thank you very much for your answer!

Seems to be a good choice for color products, I think I’ll try that route. And it’s good to know that it has more transparency, if any gel or similar goes wrong next time, maybe I’ll replace the polymer!

Would you know if I should use it in a lower concentration than K30, and if there is any basis for that? For example, if I use 2% PVP K30 in a gel, the ideal would be approximately how much K90?

Thank you for your help!

[Lab]

Thanks for your overview, Matt! It was very useful!

I think we have some samples around here, maybe I’ll run some tests to see how the polymer behaves. Do you have any tips to facilitate the dissolution in water? I thought about dispersing in glycerin before, maybe a 3:1 ratio will work?

[Lab]

As strange as it sounds, yes I do. It’s the same one we use in some shampoos where it’s clearly possible to feel the cooling effect… we increased the concentration because we hadn’t felt anything before, but maybe if we had tested it in the female region the effect would be expressive…

I think this is one of the greater difficulties in formulating cosmetics, when you try to do something specific for a niche that you are not part of and never had contact with other products

[Lab]

A colleague tried the application on the lips, since it is a mucosa, and we had no effect either… regarding the terminal endings, I imagined that the palm of the hand (despite not having as many as the intimate region in question) had been a good choice … I don’t think anyone will volunteer for the tests now 😳

[Lab]

Thanks for the direction you gave me! I’ll do my reading as soon as possible (:

[Lab]

Hi @ketchito , sorry to disturb this topic but could you tell me more about these coacervates? You see, I’m a graduate biologist and the only ones I know are… well… those ones who probably gave rise to life a hundred millions billions trillions years ago (literally the “primitive beings”). I tried to do a quick search on coacervates in cleansing systems but (what a shame) I think I’m more confused than I was before…

I’ve seen several members commenting on it occasionally and it caught my attention, sorry 😆

[Lab]

I think it’s working now Perry!

One suggestion, I think the search tool could work more like google itself. If we mix words that don’t follow each other, it won’t have results (like in the old forum)… So, for example, if I want to find a forum where 2 different ingredients were mentioned but I don’t remember the title or an exact phrase, typing both in the search box will not return any results, as if the topic does not exist. But it’s there, I just don’t know the exact words order to look for it.

Sorry, I don’t know if my explanation made sense 😅

[Lab]

I think recent discussions refer to new entries as questions. On the main page of the forum, those ones with new replies appear as well, even if they are old posts, so they get mixed up with new discussions

[Lab]

I think you can play with the consistency agent concentrations, maybe include some alcohol (cetyl, stearyl)? If there are too many problems you might suggest switching from a water to an anhydrous base, maybe there will be less problems and you can then drop the ceteareth.

[Lab]

To check your discussions, just go to your own profile and select “Foruns” (:

I still struggling with the search engine too 🙁

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