ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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The cloudiness could be to bubbles themselves, but it can actually be your acrylates complaining for too much NaCl in your formula (they usually don’t get along very well).
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Perhaps you reached a gel-like consistency. It’s harder to remove air from gels than for highly viscous liquids. What’s the process you’re following to make your product?
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Keep in mind that cationic surfactants (like SAPDMA) are small molecules that diffuse better and mainly deposit by electrostátic interactions. Amodimethicone on the other hand is still a large molecule whose main deposition mechanism is hydrophobic -related. So they shouldn’t compete.
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I’d start with a level of Behentrimonium around 1% w/w (if you’re using the 80% version, then it’d be 1.25%), and use a 1:4 retio with your fatty acid, which still give you a stable LGN. For the Arginine, never saw it in a conditioner and would be very worried to put it at 6%. Can you check what type of fixation is supposed to give in a cationic system? Your coco-caprylate might not be emollient enough. Are you trying to formulate a silicone-free product? Just asking because they’re kings in these type ofbproducts.
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There’s actuallt not much debate (only between influencers, I believe). Silicones are nor BIodegradable, but they are degradable. There’s quiere some literature about it.
When it comes to buil-up on hair, it’s either cationic polymers or their coacervates with anionic surfactants which are harder to remove than silicones, especially non charged silicones, which are the most used. Even the carged ones have a way not to build-up due to charge repulsion and their ability to rotate.
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Maybe this could help: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fchem.2020.582746/full
frontiersin.org
Complex Formation of Phytic Acid With Selected Monovalent and Divalent Metals
The formation of metal complexes with phytic acid is a complex process that depends strongly on the metal-to-ligand molar ratio, pH value and consequent protonation level of the phytate ligand as well as accompanying side reactions, in particular metal hydrolysis … Continue reading
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Carboxylates are actually very mild. Both SLS and SLES being as detersive as they are, have a hard time to completely remove PQ’s buildup. Your formula is more suitable for a sensitive skin/scalp, but if you want to remove buildup, you need the cavalry.
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I’ve worked with biomaterials in the past and the term biomimetic in cosmetics is, wel….bio-B.S.
The formula you described is simple, and there are actually better performing formulas in the market. Please use a robust preservative system if you want to make something like that.
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For buildup removal, rather than pH, it’s the strenght of your surfactants which preveils. There are even some papers discussing how even for SLES struggles to completel remove buildup caused by Polyquaternium-10.
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I’d add a chelant (like disodium EDTA) and keep the surfactant level to a minimum.
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Are you making an emulsion as guys from Blondme? The delivery system is very important.
Also, use different chelants (as they do), to stabilize your peroxide.
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That’s strange. One thing I could suspect is that your microemulsion also has Cetrimonium chloride, and it might be reacting with your SLES. Else, I don’t know what could be happening. If that’s the case, switch to a microemulsion with a purely non ionic enulsifying system.
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I agree with all the comments. Unfortunately, mineral (inorganic) sunblockers don’t actually reach the same level of protection than if you use organic filters. Keep in mind also that both inorganic filter’s main Mode of action is by absorbing UV rays (same as with organic filters). In my experience, mixing both organic and inorganic filters, along with antioxidants and other radical stabilizers, and a good emollient system to give better spreading/coverage, is a good base for a sunblocker. But as previously mentioned, there’s a lot of knowledge needed to get to a good performing and safe formula.
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What’s your benchmark?
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Hi @abdullah, long time no see! Check if the precipitate that went to the top yesterday, will settle over time. I believe that will happen since it’s a lot of precipitate shown in your pics. Try one sample without salt and put it in the fridge, to see what happens ????
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1% of Tocopheryl acetato might be a bit too much. I wouldn’t go over 0.5%. Keep in mind that you still need something to stabilize your vitamin C. There are few patents on the subject.
Why did you blacklisted polymers? Does that apply also to natural polymers? Many polymers are now biodegradable, just in case.
A 5:1 or 10:1 ratio could actually give a sticy feel. I’d use mixtures of solubilizers, both to use less of each and prevent stickiness. There are also patents on the topic.
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Your system might be salting out. Could you make a batch without NaCl? If that one works fine, you’ll need to add small amounts of NaCl and test if it doesn’t precipitate. You’ll find out then the max amount of NaCl your system can handle.
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You could, but it will make your product thick too soon, so that it’ll be harder to mix some ingredients that would require higher mixing and would aereate your product more than usual.
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I’d actually increase Octocrylene and reduce other UVB crystalline filter. Also, how are you adding your allantoin? That’s a high level (I wouldn’t add it myself in this kind of formula). If you add it in the cool down phase and the product is already thick, that can be a reason for those crystals.
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I’m sure @Perry44 will have a better explanation, but I wanted to chip in if I may ????. I believe Perry was more prone to use other type of polymers than proteins for hair. Actually, what you put in your formulas are not whole proteins (since they are mostly insoluble), but hydrolyzed forms. From there, you’ll have peptides of different sizes. The big ones can still form films, but the smaller ones won’t. Filme from peptides are brittle and inferior than for instance silicones. And small peptides are either too soluble to reach hair or just getting inside hair by chance without altering its mechanical properties. For hydration, the best hydrator of all times is water, hehe…what you need is something to lock in hydration, and that’s when film formers like silicones or mineral oil are good at.
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This article from Science Magazine is very comprehensive: https://www.science.org/content/blog-post/sodium-benzoate-nonsense. Decarboxylation of benzoate is not easy to carry out, especially in normal conditions (catalysts and other conditions are often required).
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Glycerin doesn’t improve viscosity and in high leves, it could actually impair it. Plus, it kills foam. Decyl glucoside is a good surfactant, but can also impair viscosity. Try first without it, and if viscosity is OK, add it in increasing doses in newer prototipes.
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Try removing glycerin, coconut oil, olive oil and decyl glucoside. You’ll notice then the viscosity response from salt addition. Also, increase your SLS a bit, or change/add some SLES.
I’d advise to switch to a more robust preservative system.
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If you add a cationic polymer though, you’ll need to reduce your carbomer and add one of them as a slurry, with some amphoteric between them.
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If you want it to be more glentle, add some amphoteric surfactant (like CAPB) or cationic polymer.