ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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I agree with @Perry44 about the oxidation. Now, what could happen is that your vaseline wasn’t as refined as some others, and those traces could contain materials prone to oxidation.
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I love the artistry and creativity. If you want to make it more challenging, add some ink to the combo, and of course, some red wine (either a cheap one, or perhaps a bottle that a bad boyfriend gave you long time ago).
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You could try with liquid emulsifiers, like Polysorbate 20, laureth-9 and PEG-40 HCO (the last one can be a bit thicker than the other ones). Now, to Spray the product, you don’t need it to be completely liquid; there are sprayable products in the market with certain thickness (I’ve seen some at up to 12,000 cps).
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Gels don’t have oil phases (unless you are formulating a cream gel, which is a different type of product). If you want a crear gel, remove all your oily materiales, since you’re forming an emulsion (that’s why the white color). By the way, I don’t see any styling polymers in your formula.
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W/O emulsions are inherently resistant to water, at least more than O/W. I’m not an expert on W/O emulsions, but I know that manufacturing process (especially the low addition) is key, as well as to choose the right emulsifiers and adding salt.
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Vitamin E (Tocopherols, not the Acetate form) is an antioxidant, and very low amounts are usually needed. I’d recommend you to keep it but in a dose around 0.1%.
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Arginine is an aminoacid, not a protein. Actually, for conditioning, a protein hydrolyzate could work a bit better for conditioning (although large peptides form brittle films). Even better if that hydrolyzate is quaternized.
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I’d choose Amodimethicone and some of the Dimethiconol gum in Cyclopentasiloxane (#2). Btw, you could get rid of the glycerine here.
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I’d just focus on balancing the surfactant system and using some film former like some silicone. If you have a clear system, PEG-12 dimethicone could be a good option.
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That’s because your forming an emulsion since you have an emulsifier, an oil and a water source (ethanol still has some water in it). Remove the oil or use it at very low levels.
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No cosmetic product can make your hair to grow. There are only two chemicals approves by FDA for this purpose (Minoxidil and Finasteride), and they both fall in the cathegory of drugs. Cosmetic active that supposedly have “clinical trials” backing them up for hair growth, fail when systematic reviews are conducted, wether because of lack of good studies or for risk of bias of the ones available.
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I think that’s the only way small brands can compete with big ones, riding every new wave of fear mongering, since they don’t have the resources (both budget and technical) that big companies have. If you check patents, they are mostly from big companies that can invest in R&D. The same happens with papers presented at big events like the IFSCC congress. Also, since small brands can’t many times afford to even have a chemist (or similar) in their team, they rely either on formulas given by a contract manufacturers or by a supplier. You’d barely see fancy ingredients in the “backbones” of big brand’s formulas, just pure science…while a small brand will have many of not really solid science-based ingredients.
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There are different ways to build viscosity. You can do by mixing surfactants (as you mentioned, some anionic with specific amphoterics help you reach micellar arrangements that give some shear resistante, like worm-like micelles). There are several ecamples in the literature. Inorganic salts like sodium chloride help you reach these micellar structures faster. You can also use polymers to create entanglements between your micellar structures, or to just swell your solvent reducing movement between molecules.
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It’s usually the formula itself rather than a single ingredients what deliver the benefits. What is the benefit you want to communicate?
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Disregarding the issues formulators have using Optiphen in emulsions, you also have more than 3% of waxes, and they are hard to emulsify. Also, 0.8% of xanthan gum can gel your water phase which can also disbalance your emulsion. I’d replace your two waxes by some cetearyl alcohol (1-2%), and reduce the xanthan gum to around 0.3%.
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“However, methyl
salicylate does display the normal
instability innate to the salicylate
group; a pink-red discoloration in
contact with traces of iron salts.”Source: https://img.perfumerflavorist.com/files/base/allured/all/document/2016/02/pf.9902.pdf
I believe the pink color drift might be caused by methyl salicylate remains in the natural salicylic acid, when in contact with traces of iron
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“Synthetic SA is white and odorless whereas natural SA, derived from the hydrolysis of methyl salicylate, may have a slight pink or yellow tint and a faint wintergreen-like odor.”
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Ingredient Profile: Salicylic Acid
2-Hydroxybenzoic acid, or salicylic acid (SA), is among the most important medicinal compounds ever discovered. Since ancient times, humans have benefited from the therapeutic effects of naturally occurring SA precursors, which readily metabolize to SA and provide analgesic, anti- inflammatory … Continue reading
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To suspend beads you need shear resistance, and the most used polymers for that are moderarely-to-highly crosslinked polyacrylates (carbomers).
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I agree with @onur on the type of surfactants and keratolitic (salicylic acid). Nevertheless, alcohol (I assume it’s ethanol) and glycerin are useless in cleansing products. They are small hygroscopic molecules, that will be heavily solvated and will go down the drain before delivering any real benefit.
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Cyclomethicone is the generic name for cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxabe, etc. Now, big brand use for this product a dimethiconol gum in a volatile carrier (cyclopentasiloxane). This gives viscosity to the product, good conditioning when applied and lighteness since the carrier will evaporate. You can mix this with natural oils an esters withitn their solubility limita, to create your formula.
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Even if you were using a 100% active NaOH, 0.2% is not nearly enough to neutralize Stearic acid so it works as an emulsifier. Check your supplier data sheet, it usually comes with a recomendación on how much of each base is enough to neutralize stearic acid.
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Your hair gets a lot of moisture from water during your shower. After that, what you want is to restore its hydrophobicity. That’s the one responsible for all the mechanical and optical features of a healthy hair.
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No worries. Probably the products you saw put just few drops of oils, enough so polysorbate 20 would solubilize them. Good you’re using PV/VA copolymer. You could add some PVP if you want more fixation (but not so much, since it’s very hygroscopic).
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How are you adding Salicylic acid (SA)? If you’re using Cocamide DEA or similar, you can mix SA with Cocamide DEA with gentle heating till it’s dissolved, and then add it to the batch close to the end of the process. You could use other similar materials if you wish.
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As mentioned, glycerin might not deliver the effect you want from a cleansing system. Plus, it impairs foam. Now, since water is the best and most abundant hydrating agent in contact with skin, what you can do is to lock in that moisture. For that, you can use some polymers like silicones. There are other choices but might require more complex formulas.