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ketchito
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Thank you @MarkBroussard for your comments, I really appreciate them.
My client, for one project, actually built some data set from different trials where he modified the ammount of each ingredient ofnthe formula, to see where there is an optimal formulation, using Minitab. Nevertheless, the product was very simple and I don’t see that working in shampoos (where there are different and complex interactions) or even emulsions (since the products were made by a technician, manufacture is also another variable not taken into account). What’s your take on this?
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@Perry44 I totally agree. One major flaw of AI is their dependence on data and how reliable that is, since it can’t discriminate for instance between good data and bad data. AI also doesn’t have access (yet) to many paid journals which is a major limitation.
@sagestudent What amazes me is how easy it is to convince someone in power (who very often don’t have technical training) about some new technology, and how eager they are to replace their technical people. Btw, the tool my client is using is Minitab (https://www.minitab.com/en-us/solutions/analytics/statistical-analysis-predictive-analytics/).
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Try with mineral oil…but you’ll need a larger amount than usual (around 8%). Check what level gives you the glide you want, and fix the formula to be stable at that leve of MO.
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ketchito
MemberNovember 9, 2023 at 9:39 pm in reply to: Improvement on leave in conditioner formula. Waxy feelThat soft layer that conditioners leave, that glide is due to emollients, which are usually silicones, esters or hydrocarbons. You have none of them (and very little cationic surfactant, which also help to have a smoother surface). I believe the oils you have in your formula are vegetable oils, which don’t feel as nice on hair (although, you don’t have much of those either).
You also have a huge amount of Aloe Vera, which doesn’t really do much, but increasing your risk of contamination.
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What you do to prevent setting is to keep mixing till the bulk starts getting some consistency. That’s when you pour the product into molds. Tapioca can be replaced by any other starch, while bicarbonate can be replaced for example, with magnesium hydroxide.
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I second @jemolian on the use of 165 plus a fatty alcohol, to get a nice lamellar phase for your product.
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Tapioca starch and bakong soda do not dissolve in oils and waxes when melted. What happens is that in a small batch, melting and cooling take very little time, and you won’t see your powders settling, which is more evident in a larger batch. Plus, heating surface in your larger kettle might concentrate and transfer more heat from the bottom, and that could account for the burning.
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Also, be careful when working with magnesium chloride since it’s hygroscopic and you might have issues in plant. You could use KCl instead.
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Younhave two amioacid-based surfactants and one non ionic. Adding salt might not produce a viscosity increase, unless at your working pH, one behaves as an anionic and the other as a zwitterionic, since the addition of salt works to reduce repulsion between head groups of surfactants, so micelles keep on growing or changing conformation. You could also perform a pH screening to see where you have a peak in viscosity (if you want to keep both aminoacid-based surfactants).
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ketchito
MemberNovember 2, 2023 at 9:02 pm in reply to: Chelating agents with Glyceryl Stearate; is EDTA Failing Emulsions?Glyceryl stearate is an ester (non ionic), so there shouldn’t be an issue with EDTA. Now, what could be happening is that if you use dissodium EDTA, the final pH is lower and most of your Stearic acid is in the acid form (when neutralized, Stearic acid works as an emulsifier). That’s why you have a thicker product without EDTA. Just a guess.
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Optiphen messes up with the viscosity of some emulsions. You could change your preservative if you want. Gums can also give not a pleasant look to emulsions. You could replace it by modified starches of just remove it and increase your fatty alcohol and btms.
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ketchito
MemberOctober 28, 2023 at 4:36 pm in reply to: Please give some advice on this shampoo formulationDecyl glucoside might not help you build good viscosity. If you still want some glucoside, shoose coco glucoside.
Also, I don’t see something to give lubriticy to hair, so an ester or silicone (I believe you might not be a fan of those) is required.
Could you elaborate more on this: “biologically active ones that have an effect on oil products”?
Also, your preservativos system might not give enough protection.
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I agree with @PhilGeis . Choose carefuly your sources and read with critic eyes. That journal has a very low impact factor (ca. 0.1). This is not a perfect metric, but it will help you filter papers.
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As other members mentioned, reduce those three ingredients to claim levels (0.01% for example). None of them have any real effect from a shampoo.
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The reacción is available online in few places. Now, Just as a reference, that reaction require very specific conditions that are not that common in cosmetics. I remember that phenomenom was found in some drinks which have a very low pH. So be careful to understand first the chemistry behind it.
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Big companies have very efficient mixing equipments, so dispersing powders like this is not an issue. Yes, big companies (that I know of) buy the powder version, both for price (it’s cheaper) and for shelf life (aqueous versions last less).
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ketchito
MemberOctober 16, 2023 at 11:36 am in reply to: Polysorbate 80 or Kolliphor RH 40 as a surfactant?If you’re formulating hair care products, please be careful about using high amounts of non ionic surfactants. There was a case in Brazil of severe eye issues of people that used styling hair products with high amounts of ceteareth-20, which due to sweating, reached consumers eyes (https://www.gov.br/anvisa/pt-br/assuntos/noticias-anvisa/2023/pomadas-capilares-anvisa-define-produtos-que-poderao-voltar-ao-mercado-1#:~:text=O%20Ceteareth%2D20%20%C3%A9%20amplamente,de%20mais%20de%20600%20processos
gov.br
Pomadas capilares: Anvisa define produtos que poderão voltar ao mercado
Agência autoriza a volta de uma lista restrita de pomadas capilares ao mercado. Investigações seguem com foco nos produtos relacionados aos eventos adversos graves.
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In the case of your perfume, do you use colorants as in your other products? Do you also perceive bad olor?
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I love MBBT but I would never use it alone, mainly because of price. I use it as a stabilizer (EHMC thanks you for that) and SPF booster. Hopefuly you’ll have enough UVA coverage with only 2% of your UVA filter. Where are you planning on selling this product? Last I remember, MBBT wasn’t approved in the USA as UV filter. Also, there’s a UVB/UVA ratio now with the New las you have to fulfill.
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It feels like Deja vu, hehe. Both CIR and Scientific Opinion of the EU are reviews of evidence, usually leaving out very weak studies. I won’t add any since I did last time, If I remember correctly. I also attached Unilever’s patent of a syndet bar which was shown to be milder than regular soaps. I’m attaching now a few screenshots:
1) one from the 2nd world conference on detergents, where they found that in a tallow/cocoate based soap bar, the more cocoate you had (similar to the type of oils from vegetable sources), the more irritating the bar. Both bars were more irritating than a mild synthetic bar (control).
2) one from a very nice book “Surfactants in personal care products and decorative cosmetics”, where both SDS and Na laurate scored the highest in the Zein test (ability to denature skin proteins).
3) one from the book “Surfactants in cosmetics”, where it’s shown that an isethionate bar is milder than conventional products containing SLS or soap.
The point is that there newer and more effective technologies than standard soaps, to make milder products. Actually, the “soap chamber test” takes the name from soap since it was designed to assess the irritancy of soaps.
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Can you please cite your references and what you mean by “toxic” impact? The most comprehensive and authoritative reviews on the topic (CIR and the Opinions from the Scientific Commitee of the EU) show how soaps (like sodium or potassium cocoate) underperfom in dermatological, ocular and different other tests, if you compare the same reviews done for SLES, sulfosuccinates, etc. The difference of course is not gigantic, but was relevant enough to prefer synthetic surfactants in personal cleansing systems.
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Another possibility is that you have an alkylbenzene sulfonate (NANSA), which was formed by neutralizing a type of sulfonic acid with sodium hydroxide. This results in an equilibrium. Since water is part of the products, by adding water (dilution), the system will reform the acid, which is less soluble than is salt. Also, some flagrantes are not stable in acid environments (that might be your foul odor). Check the pH of your 2 year bottle, to see if the pH dropped.
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Glyceryl oleate is an ester with a long carbon chain which accounts for its use as a refattening agent.
Sodium cocoate on the other hand, is a detergent, a carboxylate with a proper carbon chain lenght. So, two different molecules with a different purpose.
Sodium cocoate and CAPB can actually make a good combo. What are the issues you’re having?
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You mighr be experiencing two different issues at the same time: color loss due to dye oxidation (for this a UV filter is needed), and product contamination (review your preservative system).