ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Disregarding the issues formulators have using Optiphen in emulsions, you also have more than 3% of waxes, and they are hard to emulsify. Also, 0.8% of xanthan gum can gel your water phase which can also disbalance your emulsion. I’d replace your two waxes by some cetearyl alcohol (1-2%), and reduce the xanthan gum to around 0.3%.
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“However, methyl
salicylate does display the normal
instability innate to the salicylate
group; a pink-red discoloration in
contact with traces of iron salts.”Source: https://img.perfumerflavorist.com/files/base/allured/all/document/2016/02/pf.9902.pdf
I believe the pink color drift might be caused by methyl salicylate remains in the natural salicylic acid, when in contact with traces of iron
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“Synthetic SA is white and odorless whereas natural SA, derived from the hydrolysis of methyl salicylate, may have a slight pink or yellow tint and a faint wintergreen-like odor.”
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Ingredient Profile: Salicylic Acid
2-Hydroxybenzoic acid, or salicylic acid (SA), is among the most important medicinal compounds ever discovered. Since ancient times, humans have benefited from the therapeutic effects of naturally occurring SA precursors, which readily metabolize to SA and provide analgesic, anti- inflammatory … Continue reading
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To suspend beads you need shear resistance, and the most used polymers for that are moderarely-to-highly crosslinked polyacrylates (carbomers).
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I agree with @onur on the type of surfactants and keratolitic (salicylic acid). Nevertheless, alcohol (I assume it’s ethanol) and glycerin are useless in cleansing products. They are small hygroscopic molecules, that will be heavily solvated and will go down the drain before delivering any real benefit.
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Cyclomethicone is the generic name for cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxabe, etc. Now, big brand use for this product a dimethiconol gum in a volatile carrier (cyclopentasiloxane). This gives viscosity to the product, good conditioning when applied and lighteness since the carrier will evaporate. You can mix this with natural oils an esters withitn their solubility limita, to create your formula.
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Even if you were using a 100% active NaOH, 0.2% is not nearly enough to neutralize Stearic acid so it works as an emulsifier. Check your supplier data sheet, it usually comes with a recomendación on how much of each base is enough to neutralize stearic acid.
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It might be the Arlypon TT salting out by the electrolytes from your surfactants (especially from CAPB). Now, why on earth to use such level of glycerin? Rather than using such level of a very hydrosoluble molecule that will rinse away without performing its magic (and depressing foam from your formula), you could focus on making a humecting and mild product.
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Natural oils are not only good for us but for our skin micriobiota. And when they feast with oils, they can release not so good compounds for our skin like oleic acid, which can be irritating for some people. Particularly, I wouldn’t use natural oils for sensitive skin.
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You need to add it at the start of the process into the vortex, with vigorous mixing, keeping it for some time till you see no granules. Alternatively, you can heat your water to around 60°C, since PQ-10 will mix better in warm water.
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You might have reached a gel-like consistency. Try reducing your NaCl and aim for a viscous fluid appearance.
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I haven’t seen a stable shampoo using xanthan gum. There are better options like HPMC. Now, a SLES/CAPB/NaCl system should thicken very well. What’s your anionic content (as total active)?
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I agree with @paprik. Also, why did you include Cocamidopropylbetaine in a leave in conditioner? No need for that, but very useful in cleansing systems.
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@belassi I also join in to the previous messages. I always enjoyed reading your comments, and I’m sure many of us are thankful for that. I wish your the best on your sell, and with your new projects.
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The cloudiness could be to bubbles themselves, but it can actually be your acrylates complaining for too much NaCl in your formula (they usually don’t get along very well).
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Perhaps you reached a gel-like consistency. It’s harder to remove air from gels than for highly viscous liquids. What’s the process you’re following to make your product?
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Keep in mind that cationic surfactants (like SAPDMA) are small molecules that diffuse better and mainly deposit by electrostátic interactions. Amodimethicone on the other hand is still a large molecule whose main deposition mechanism is hydrophobic -related. So they shouldn’t compete.
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I’d start with a level of Behentrimonium around 1% w/w (if you’re using the 80% version, then it’d be 1.25%), and use a 1:4 retio with your fatty acid, which still give you a stable LGN. For the Arginine, never saw it in a conditioner and would be very worried to put it at 6%. Can you check what type of fixation is supposed to give in a cationic system? Your coco-caprylate might not be emollient enough. Are you trying to formulate a silicone-free product? Just asking because they’re kings in these type ofbproducts.
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There’s actuallt not much debate (only between influencers, I believe). Silicones are nor BIodegradable, but they are degradable. There’s quiere some literature about it.
When it comes to buil-up on hair, it’s either cationic polymers or their coacervates with anionic surfactants which are harder to remove than silicones, especially non charged silicones, which are the most used. Even the carged ones have a way not to build-up due to charge repulsion and their ability to rotate.
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Maybe this could help: https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fchem.2020.582746/full
frontiersin.org
Complex Formation of Phytic Acid With Selected Monovalent and Divalent Metals
The formation of metal complexes with phytic acid is a complex process that depends strongly on the metal-to-ligand molar ratio, pH value and consequent protonation level of the phytate ligand as well as accompanying side reactions, in particular metal hydrolysis … Continue reading
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Carboxylates are actually very mild. Both SLS and SLES being as detersive as they are, have a hard time to completely remove PQ’s buildup. Your formula is more suitable for a sensitive skin/scalp, but if you want to remove buildup, you need the cavalry.
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How are you adding Salicylic acid (SA)? If you’re using Cocamide DEA or similar, you can mix SA with Cocamide DEA with gentle heating till it’s dissolved, and then add it to the batch close to the end of the process. You could use other similar materials if you wish.
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As mentioned, glycerin might not deliver the effect you want from a cleansing system. Plus, it impairs foam. Now, since water is the best and most abundant hydrating agent in contact with skin, what you can do is to lock in that moisture. For that, you can use some polymers like silicones. There are other choices but might require more complex formulas.
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If you add a cationic polymer though, you’ll need to reduce your carbomer and add one of them as a slurry, with some amphoteric between them.
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If you want it to be more glentle, add some amphoteric surfactant (like CAPB) or cationic polymer.